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Experience with these subs?


JZeFF

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Posted

fi btl n2's will take 3k all day no problem

1994 Jeep Cherokee

!@#$%^&*(Soon to come)*&^%$#@!

TONS AND TONS of Audio Technix 80Mil

1 x 270 Amp Mechman Alt

1 x AQ3500D.1

1 x Rockford Fosgate T600-4

8 x Rockford Fosgate T2652-S

2 x XS Power D3100

1 x XS Power D3400

1 x eKs Kable 2 Channel Silver Plated RCA 5M

1 x Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Red 50FT.

1 x Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black 50FT.

4 x Avenue - A605

2 x Fi Q 18

Posted

I'm also quite curious as well about the whole neo magnets.. I know respective to size they are more powerful than conventional magnets, but are they worth it?

Posted

Same strenght for less weight=smaller.

Futuristic styling, has potential to cool better...

BTL N2 can take 4k-5k daily, if it's in the right hands..

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

Posted

my lvl 5s laugh at 2750 rms a piece... clamped

just thought I would share

The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log

Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube

Team DC Audio

where theres a will theres a wall.......

I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones

Posted

Doing the felt above the leads, on the cone was such a joke RE came up with. No one wanted to do it right, and stitch leads, so that idea carried on for quite a few years- Annoying customers- If the spiders are stitched correctly, there will never be a problem

DSCN3376.jpg

No..

The problem comes from the basket geometry itself, not any fault of the lead.

On a standard 12 spoke frame (10-15) there are geometry issues. When you tie the lead to the top of the spider the cone still con-vexes down into the top rolls of the spiders and beats the leads on top of them..the lead material turns into a saw at that point which either fatigues in the 'loop' point or the thread breaks and you've got 3 times as much lead as you need.

Putting them inside of the spiders is the best way to do it (with openly tooled and available baskets), however it has issues as well that stem from a few things. When you put them in-between spiders and sew them in you HAVE to have your subsonic filter set properly. Otherwise when you flap things about under tuning it is like bending a pop top on a coke can back and forth. It will bend back and forth until hell freezes over within its mechanical limitations, however when you start taking it to the extremes of the mechanical limitations and past it, the pop top pops..as does the tinsel lead. This only becomes worse when you get into induction heating and what not from amplifiers switching in the 80+++kHz range and makes the leads glow, then you get somebody who finds the bass boost knob...and you add in no subsonic filter it causes issues.

Regardless, the best way to do it is by using flat leads in between the spiders..it has the least amount of issues, but at best it is a band aid over a cut that honestly really needs stitches...

There is nothing wrong with having external leads on the 18" 12 spoke basket with the curved cones that we use on the IB3 series...because you would hear lead slap in a heart beat in home theater IB environment and you can bet your socks that those guys would complain as well. But, it does not have the issues because the geometry is not as far off as all of the other baskets are. It does not slap, it does not break unless you yank it WAY past where the spider locks up.

The issue at hand is simply caused due to basket geometry of the cone moving into the soft parts...and is solved by having a basket that is properly designed for such things.

Edit: Personally the best way to do it is the way JL does it on the W7's..and that's patented...for good reason :)

Hopes this clears a few things up.

:drinks:

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If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough -Albert Einstein

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Guest grim83
Posted

hrm well... all have their pros

Mayhem- i personally use and love. its durable as hell, and efficent, love the mayhems and wouldnt use anything else in the category.

Lvl 5- efficency seems to be meh, but very solid and durable hell they can take some hellacious abuse and keep punching.

N2- limited experience, but they seem nice and as long as you arent a ratard you should be fine.

NSv3- just logically speaking if your not happy with the one you got why buy a new one. :pardon:

so i think the biggest question is which is cheapest and which company would you rather have backing the sub

Posted

NSv3- just logically speaking if your not happy with the one you got why buy a new one. :pardon:

so i think the biggest question is which is cheapest and which company would you rather have backing the sub

only problem is tinsel lead slapping... V3 doesn't has that.

And it's a efficient subwoofer.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

Posted

Fi has a website.

REALLY?!?

No fucking way!!

Thanks everyone for the input. I will dig deeper into the mayhem and the NsV3.

I love how my nightshade sounds, and I love efficiency. But I can't take the tinsel slap much longer, lol.

Hopefully they release the NS 3 soonish.

Pioneer x930 bt

Rockford t2500 bdcp

18" nightshade v1

DC audio 175.4

RF power T162s up front, infinity 3 way 6x9's in the back (removing rear stage and re-doing doors soon)

3x XS power D2700's

Knukonceptz 0awg all around

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