Torres Posted November 20, 2007 Report Posted November 20, 2007 yeah my first thought was the alt too. when you're stopped, it's going more towards the amps, but when you drive it's cutting some of that flow off. on my build, i have limited space so i decided to use the grommets through the box. check the second page if you havent looked at the thread yet http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...mp;#entry189671 i have grommets on each side of the box, then bolts on the ends of the grommets to hold them to the box. the box will vibrate, and the rubber will absorb it. if there's nowhere else to put the amps this is the only thing i can think of. at least they wont be directly on the box itself
dwright27 Posted November 23, 2007 Report Posted November 23, 2007 i had this problem with a sony amp i borrowed from a friend. never figured it out though. 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer
Chris Posted November 23, 2007 Author Report Posted November 23, 2007 It's below freezing out right now, but I'm gonna go out there & see if it is the board loose on chode's old amp. I've got my suspicions since the problem only arose when I mounted the amps vertical like that. Last resort will be to build a shelf for them over the batts & lay them down, but one way or another I WILL FIGURE THIS THING OUT!!! 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
dmanson Posted November 23, 2007 Report Posted November 23, 2007 the problem either lies in the alternator not having enough juice for 3 batteries and two bad ass amps or either the amp(s) is at fault. now i have a question. do both subs cut off when you stop at a light? that's funny cause it might be your alternator going. but then again when you step on the gas your alternator puts out more amps so that can't be the problem. as for now and until you get the money, find somewhere else for the amps to lay. i'd suggest placing both batteries in the middle and have one T1k on each side of the batteries. keep all wires as short as possible. good luck bro. 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
AlpineGuy87 Posted November 24, 2007 Report Posted November 24, 2007 Any updated Pictures?! 06 SCION tC
Andrew Posted November 25, 2007 Report Posted November 25, 2007 I had an install in a contour do that and it ended up being a bad fuse/holder (engine bay)set up any movement and it would get a weak current flow causing the amp to not produce it full capacity....Thought it was her alty going out at first! I had the same exact problem. Check your fuse and casing up front. Replace the fuse because it may be damaged/melted internally. G/L New project in the works
Chris Posted November 25, 2007 Author Report Posted November 25, 2007 Found the problem! It was the back panel on the master amp TOTALLY rattled loose. RF uses the back panel as a universal ground on the internal board & the four screws on back came almost totally out causing a connection that was quite shock sensitive! Pics later of problem/solution. Right now I've gotta get stuff back in before it gets dark 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
roscoe1129 Posted November 25, 2007 Report Posted November 25, 2007 glad to hear it man!!! Some people need a sympathetic pat... on the head...with my hammer Scientia est Vox "In Nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti" DONT BE AFRAID TO USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!! SMD SUPER BUYER/SELLER
Chris Posted November 25, 2007 Author Report Posted November 25, 2007 Damn it. Well that was one of the problems, but now I had my brother stand in back while I cranked it because it STILL wants to keep going quiet. So I was like WTF!!! I can't really run back there to check if the protection kicks in because this system is SOOO fucking loud that it annoys the whole block REAL quick. I said, "look & see if any other lights come on when I blast it. So I get it ABSOLUTELY POUNDING & sure enough, it cuts out & he says the protect light on the master amp keeps coming on. So me thinking it's my gains, turn them all the way down, & turn the volume down on my CD player so I'm almost SURE there's no distortion but it still wants to go into protect after I turn it up ANY AMOUNT. They are each running at .7 ohms but should be more with box rise. They only started going into protect when I put them in the ported box with a direct 12guage connection to each coil, so there's very little resistance. When I had them in this box at first I used 16guage wire & terminals, & the amps never cut out like this. Long story short, I need to disable the protection circuit on both amps, or find a way of increasing resistance between the subs & amps, because it sucks having $1500 of KICKASS equipment in one's trunk that's completely useless. 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
audiofanaticz Posted November 25, 2007 Report Posted November 25, 2007 Man that sucks chris. It looks real good too. them amps look huge on the back of that box too But if you needed a spot to build a box, we could of used my kitchen (its my indoor heated/ac'ed garage w/munchies galore)... Did you take the cover off the top of the amp at all? There are a few allen screws that hold the circuit board to the black back plate that is mounted to the sides with 4 allen screws.. The top cover comes off fairly easy. After you take the cover off that covers the wires, there are 2 silver screws that must come out. Then there are 3 more screws on the front black panel of the amp where all the connections are, take out the fuse, and a plastic clip holding the plastic cover inplace by the Rca's. All pieces pop into place for the most part. I had mine apart and made sure everything was all tight when I got it. If you need more resistance just add a few extra feet to the speaker wires. Im running 8gauge out my amp and having no problem with resistance being to low, but my coils on the kickers read from 2.1-2.9 a coil also so Im no where near a 1ohm load. You can test resistance on the wire with the volt meter so you can fairly figure out when you have that extra .3 ohms of resistance per sub.
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