LovellD Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 If it makes any difference, they seemed warped for a while before the grinding started. The slower the car is going, the more the grinding is audible. I washed them to see if it could be rocks stuck under the pad, but obviously it wasn't that. It's supposed to be in the fifties sometime this week, so that's when I'll look and replace the pads (at least ) 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT Click to see my build log! (2) SKAR VVX-12 Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D Hey stupid. I got your report. You cant type a coherent sentence but yet think you can run this much power? You cant even hyperlink on the internet. You have no mention of power upgrades. You just want dat big boom dat make dem bitchez panteez drop. Next time you report someone make sure the one getting the report isnt the one you reported. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 wheel bearing maybe. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optical Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 wheel bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHEVY4X4BLAZER Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Wheel bearing is my next guess. How does the steering feel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 I'd be willing to bet its the pads/rotors. The longer you Drive on them like that the less chance there is of just turning the rotor to fix it. Oh and make sure you grease the slide pins every time you change brake pads so the wear is even on the pads. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetSlappah Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 I had this on my celica. I changed the pads and rotors and still nothing i took it in and it was the struts. Its like when you brake pretty fast its less audible but i slow braking it drives you crazy ha Refs-(b.f.) 99vic, WCA Rusty(x3) Nathan@XSPOWER, Ampjunkielikeme, Bread0710, AmiCreations (s.t.) REsLaPz, PandaGT(x2), Keiferacing, Juicemane (t.w.) Powski, Big gil[/center] Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/77726-sss-celica-dc-buildupdate-611-finished/ 2005 subi STi 380whp 355whp 17" gold bbs 5% tint all around w/sunglare strip JVC dvd double din Knuconceptz 4ga wiring XS Power! Big 3 8" SAv2 d2 1800 audiopipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt14 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Brake pads and rotors. I wouldnt even bother trying to re-surface the rotors. Just get some new ones. Majority of the time, the inner pads will wear faster then the outer. so pull your wheels and see if the inner pad has gone metal to metal. Or run your finger along the front and back of the rotors to see if it feels rough. If it feels rough, then you did go metal to metal. The rotor is supposed to feel "smoother" to the touch. DO NOT touch it after driving though, cause it will not feel good. 2006 GMC YukonPioneer HU SHCA ran throughout Crescendo BC3500 One 18 AA Mayhem in a 4th order ZED Levithian 6 channel Rainbow Dual 6.5 comps ran Activehttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155628-matt14s-yukon-mayhem-in-a-4th-ordernew-amps-and-bats/page-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmilch Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 99% rotors and pads. You may also have a bad wheel bearing, or possibly strut tower bushing... believe it or not bad bushings can feel like warped rotors / bad wheel bearing.. jack up the car and see if the strut tower feels loose or makes any noise when moved at the strut base... Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD | Hertz 6.5 | Alpine Type R 6x9 | Custom 200A Alt | Knu Flek 1/0 Big 3 and all wiring | Eclipse EA3422 | AudioQue 2200d | DC XL 12 | Red Oak Box ~2.8 cubes @ 30 hz | Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Just from experience... I wouldn't rule out new calipers if you've gone metal to metal for any length of time or the calipers already have high miles on them. I went metal to metal last year and bought new rotors and pads. 6 months later a caliper froze up and ate my new rotors/pads up on one side. So that was two brake jobs in under a year. Autozone usually sells what is known as a "loaded caliper" which comes with brake pads and calipers, it was only 25-30 more than just the pads. 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkgp_03 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 im going to throw this out here from one Grand Prix owner to another check your hub assemblies as well. They are the most problematic part on these cars. Clip city bitch, clip clip city bitch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames bitch. TaylorFade, on 02 Jul 2013 - 9:38 PM, said: Go back to that place, ask to speak to that dude again, look him dead in the eye and then.... pop him in the snot box. Tell him T-Fade sent you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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