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Here is a enclosure for a pair of CT Sounds Tropo 8v2 subs I just finished.
Just need to get it packaged up and on its way to Lufkin Texas it goes!
Had to make a new port, I remembered the wrong and not the number I needed to cut off and the port came up too short. Glad I caught it before gluing it in otherwise the entire box would have to be rebuilt.
Didnt feel like cutting down my new 4by8 sheet of HDPE to make some router templates, so I just used some scrap wood to cut down to get the job done.
Just a simple brace since the space was tight inside the box, adding a center line of the brace would reduce the opening down from 60sq inches and make it awfully close to the cone area and that is no bueno!
Cut out a second piece to beef it up without reducing the area, and hit it with a small Sweep bit.
Also used a medium sized Sweep bit on the end of the port.
Had to wait for some orders to show up so I could progress on the build, needed to measure the new style SMD terminals for the cutout, and was pretty much out of wire as well.
I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU.
I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice).
here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html
Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
Let's kick it old school with a 20yr old Kicker "monster" amp, the 500ss. This amp pre-dates the ZR1000 and was available in 1996 for an MSRP of $999 USD. The 500ss is rated to deliver:
250x2 @ 4 ohms (500x1 @ 8 ohms)
425x2 @ 2 ohms (850x1 @ 4 ohms)
Let's take a look at this amp and see how it performs on the SMD/D'Amore Engineering AD-1 Amp Dyno. Thanks to my buddy John for lending me the amp to test.
See it on YouTube in 1080P HD
or embedded below:
I am hoping someone can explain bandpass and how the port tuning works.
I recently had a friend give me a bandpass box with a kicker cvr 12d2 in it...
the box measures 15"h 20"w 8. 5"d both sealed and ported side having these measurements. 2 tube ports 3.875" What i don't understand is way it sounds for the ports it has???
According to every port calculator iv used its tuned at 95hz! Am i measuring port frequency wrong or does bandpass create a different port frequency that is measured differently.
Also can someone explain bandpass and how you tune one.
I AM ASKING, CAUSE THIS BOX SOUNDS AMAZING DESPITE THIS QUESTIONABLE PORT FREQUENCY!
Decided to start a thread about my quest for dbzzzz in my daily driver. I told myself I would not be doing anything big with this car but I am learning not to trust myself with that kind of promise lol!
Here is the car's actual build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205951-sotm-build-2000-honda-civic-ex-140db-daily-build/?p=3124379
So I had a little setup in the car that only did 140.8db at about 34hz dB Drag style. Grabbed some equipment from my Jeep (currently being rebuilt) and got some subs to play with from Jeff Vue of JVF Customz.
So here is what I'm working with as of December 2016:
Car - 2000 Honda Civic Ex 5 Speed w/ sunroof, ac, bla bla bla.
Electrical - Stock 70a Alternator, $60 G51R stock under hood battery, Big 3 done with SHCA 4 gauge cca, 4 gauge Xs cca to the rear, G34 battery in the rear. So basically shit for electrical but its kool...but I did get some supercaps! BIGGG help with those.
Subs - 2 JVF Customz 3.3 12's, 3" 8 layer coil D1.4, 10" spider???, fat motor (same as my 18's in the Jeep) on 12 spoke.
Box - 3.4 cube, subs forward, port forward, 8" aero.
Power - 1 DC Audio 3.5k
3.5k with caps in spare tire location. Caps did not get used until later. Decided this was a bad location for the amp so it's going to move asap.
Makeshift setup. Box hardly fits and I don't like the subs up at the deck lid. This box is named the "bitch box" mostly because its been in about every "loud" street stock car in NorCal since like 2011. I won West Coast championships with it in 2015.
So now lets get on with testing! I'll just post as I go with it!
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