MrSkippyJ Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Yea where the hell do people get the idea that 18s are sloppy and 10s are clean? Wtf is sloppy? Lol idk about you but I can't hear the difference between a 10, 12, 15, 18! Shops need to crawl out from the cave they work in! Wrong. I hear a huge difference in my 18"s compaired to my 10"s. box is tuned the same as the old one. Yes there are many other variables but I think that my 18"s can get lower (considering they are tuned the same as the 10"s) But that's just me, agree or disagree of you want And screw shops. I needed a fuse bad one day, got charged $29 for a stupid 250amp Rockford fuse. And later on that week $42 dollars for a buddies install witch was just for a mini anl fuse holder and fuse. Yes I know they have to keep money flowing in to keep the lights on but still... Also my local shop has a 4th order walled, 2 15"s (don't know what kind) on two mojo 4ks. Hardly hits a 150 and they think it's the greatest thing ever... how many 18s vs how many 10s? takes a few 10s to get the same cone area as an 18. that would explain the drop in low output. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Guess I better change my order from 18's to 12's.. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrys95civic Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Isn't that why most people with larger subs use larger midbass woofers? Or at least a bunch of mid sized ones? Team Superior SPL Former Installer at Driven Sound & Security http://www.drivenss.com All kinds of forsale threads http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164247-amps-subs-and-misc/#entry2383262 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164430-polk-audio-sda6000-sound-bar/#entry2386634 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164279-3-michael-kors-watches/#entry2383983 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164549-more-items-from-storage/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/166967-dd-9518s-amps-kenwood-custom-explorer-dash/ If someone is feeling generous I'd love an original sig LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r0llinlacs Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 If they were enclosed, properly crossed over, and matched the output of the 18's, it would be bass nirvana. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Sigh. That is all. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Sigh. That is all. x2 Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Isn't that why most people with larger subs use larger midbass woofers? Or at least a bunch of mid sized ones? 2 things 1. That is theory - a properly designed enclosure will allow it to hit higher frequencies just fine. 2. People will bigger subs do that because they are loud enough that they need to start investing in a really good front stage. The midbass drivers add to the akward 80-250hz range that is often times a dead spot in many systems. Not sure about you - but I don't want that sound coming from my subs. It would make it sound SO muddy regardless of the driver size (yes, tried it with an 8 inch sub with a fiberglass cone and a 10s, 12s and 15 inch sub with a normal cones. Same results) ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r0llinlacs Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Isn't that why most people with larger subs use larger midbass woofers? Or at least a bunch of mid sized ones? 2 things 1. That is theory - a properly designed enclosure will allow it to hit higher frequencies just fine. 2. People will bigger subs do that because they are loud enough that they need to start investing in a really good front stage. The midbass drivers add to the akward 80-250hz range that is often times a dead spot in many systems. Not sure about you - but I don't want that sound coming from my subs. It would make it sound SO muddy regardless of the driver size (yes, tried it with an 8 inch sub with a fiberglass cone and a 10s, 12s and 15 inch sub with a normal cones. Same results) Okay, a properly designed enclosure would help. But it still doesn't change the fact that the 18" cone has a lot more mass and weight compared to smaller cones. It won't be able to "change" from say 80hz to 65hz anywhere near as quickly as a 10" would, simply because of the momentum of the heavier cone that the voice coil has to fight. Oh, and I love the two sighs I got, from people who obviously blindly disagree with me while obviously not having the knowledge to back themselves up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 Ha ha ha ha ha ha. Dude, if that helps you feel better about being wrong, so be it. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 Well, here's first hand for you 'lac. My xl 10's sounded weird as shit transitioning. Whereas a friends 'hoe with a single 18 xl sounded tighter and transitioned smoother. Your argument holds no water. Both boxes to DC specs. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.