Fosgatefeind Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 Isn't the smd's the only sub that has the motor bolted on? I swore I read that somewhere Or is it that the smd is the only sub with the motors bolted together so it doesn't shift... lol no... my 12" re audio xxx was bolted, along with my 12" alpine type X and the 12" JL W7V3's. all bolted adire isnt shitty, and i traded for these, these subs were origonally 699 a piece, oh btw all motors are held together by epoxy, yes they bolt to the basket but the slugs are epoxied to the top and bottom plate adire is a bad brand of woofers. JL W7's are also $699 a piece for the 12's. expensive subs do not make a good sub. jl doesnt bolt there magnets on. they are like rivited on Buildlog: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/146515-2007-monte-carlo-ls-build-new-plans-with-dc-audio/ TEAM DC AUDIO www.Dcsoundlab.com
bass_stalker Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Posted April 2, 2012 gonna try some 5 minute epoxy or something and if that doesnt fix it i wont have anything i can do until atleast august, hopefully i can get a job by then JEEP BUILD PROJECT ANTIBLING.2000 jeep Cherokee.HEADUNITAlpine Cda-9886SUBSTAGE1 acendent 18" audio mayhem motor with a TI basket and tantric parts1 prototype DAT hellfire 1000.1HIGHSStockELECTRICALdb link 0 gaugeKnuconceptz Kolossus 4 gauge1 xs power d3400 under hoodBig 3 upgradeold fourwheeler build The only way to delete your SMD account is for you crawl to steve meades door step on your knees and pleade for his forgiveness and acceptance to be released...He will either grant your wishes.....or choke you with a large piece of 0 gauge and electrocute you by hooking up a solid gold DC 12k at 0.000001 ohm and 10000 volts to your eye sockets and blow your head apart You guys act like you have never clogged a toilet and ran around the bathroom frantically hoping it don't overflow.
Robby Holmes Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 Isn't the smd's the only sub that has the motor bolted on? I swore I read that somewhere Or is it that the smd is the only sub with the motors bolted together so it doesn't shift... lol no... my 12" re audio xxx was bolted, along with my 12" alpine type X and the 12" JL W7V3's. all bolted adire isnt shitty, and i traded for these, these subs were origonally 699 a piece, oh btw all motors are held together by epoxy, yes they bolt to the basket but the slugs are epoxied to the top and bottom plate adire is a bad brand of woofers. JL W7's are also $699 a piece for the 12's. expensive subs do not make a good sub. jl doesnt bolt there magnets on. they are like rivited on i donno man.. these look like bolts. apologies for the low res on the heads '08 Chevy Cobalt coupe 2.2 base model trunk build: 2 9512iSC flatwound alum 1.5 coils -extra 9500 spider pack -8" platinum carbon dustcaps 1 DD Z1 (.375ohm nominally daily) 3g31 AGM 320a Ohio Gen alt 1 DD S4 4 channel 4 VO-M8v1's (holes cut for 3rd pair) 2 CS 6.5's 2 VO-B1's Sony XAV-601BT all Knu Krystal RCA's Cadence 7band EQ ______________________ 148.3db @ 32hz (burp) 148.4 @ 37 & 38hz (burp) 146.xdb 90sec average (center windshield)
STEvil Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 And another person feels the pain of the motor assembly falling apart. Been there, done that, stopped buying subs without a fully-bolted motor. Seriously depressing that in this day and age most manufacturers are relying on glue to hold magnet assemblies together.. EDIT Robby - those bolts are only to the top plate likely. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
beat2deth Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 if it makes you feel any better, rival904 broke the motors off a couple dd 3518's(iirc)
bass_stalker Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Posted April 2, 2012 well i sat the plates back together and toyed with it abit, i got it to where the coil wont rub and the sub will play when power is put to it, i'm gonna go get some 5 minute epoxy and clean the mounting surfaces then put the sub back together JEEP BUILD PROJECT ANTIBLING.2000 jeep Cherokee.HEADUNITAlpine Cda-9886SUBSTAGE1 acendent 18" audio mayhem motor with a TI basket and tantric parts1 prototype DAT hellfire 1000.1HIGHSStockELECTRICALdb link 0 gaugeKnuconceptz Kolossus 4 gauge1 xs power d3400 under hoodBig 3 upgradeold fourwheeler build The only way to delete your SMD account is for you crawl to steve meades door step on your knees and pleade for his forgiveness and acceptance to be released...He will either grant your wishes.....or choke you with a large piece of 0 gauge and electrocute you by hooking up a solid gold DC 12k at 0.000001 ohm and 10000 volts to your eye sockets and blow your head apart You guys act like you have never clogged a toilet and ran around the bathroom frantically hoping it don't overflow.
Emmet Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 tear it apart drill and tap holes to bolt it together instead of glue/epoxy and get with sundown or dc and get them to build you a recone. Your kidding right? Really dude... drill a magnet? Where do you think the filings are going to go? i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah.. You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people. I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion.
HHR Ed Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 Suck it up, fix it or find another solution. Plenty of people with no money break stuff all the time, and if they love audio enough, they find away to keep bumping. Some good suggestions were listed above. There is always away as long as you are willing to keep your mind and heart open to audio. Ed Lester ShowtimeSPL Host Showtime Electronics Video MarketingMy old Build Loghttp://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl 5 time dB Drag Finalist Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way. Loudest score ever = 171dB 2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion
SnowDrifter Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 Idea: cut the dustcap out with an exacto knife, shim coil as if you were doing a recone so it aligns the motor/coil, glue it up however you deem fit, and glue another slightly larger dustcap on ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Brandon15zzz Posted April 2, 2012 Report Posted April 2, 2012 ^^ this but say on the side of the motor take a silver sharpie and draw a line down the top plate onto the motor then pull the basket part off lay the apoxy and then put the basket back on to the motor making sure to line up the sharpie mark. That's what I would do. Vehicle: 1995 Impala SSHead Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4400BHMids And Highs: (still deciding)Batteries: 1 Deka Group 34 Time to make a race car.My Build Log: Solo X 12"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build/My Build Log: DC lvl 4 xl 15"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build-My Wall Build Log: 4 Lanzar 15's/ 3k+ RMShttp://www.stevemead...t-by-techforce/My Feedback:http://www.stevemead...1
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.