Which 2 BIG woofers in BP wall with 16k bassrace?

[ALPINE408]

SMD/AA subs? Maybe?

AA mayhems and fi sp4's are being considered he already stated he was not a fan of the SMD

[skittlesRgood]

go for it. 1st off, you couldnt get past the gate. second, i wouldnt even hear your system inside my house. third, i would just turn mine up and drown out your system, eat my skittles, and laugh at your pathetic ass.

I saw your system on utube and I wasnt impressed.

i bet you cant do what i did

[skittlesRgood]

HAHAHAHHAHAHAH i will give 4 years and i bet you still could not pull off a 151.7 with 2 12's at 38hz

saying your not impressed is not saying much you know nothing thats impresive as FUCK!!!!

Are you guys dating or something?

you didnt notice the "team bassick" part? you're sharp.

ya! we are hes dating your sister while im dating/bangin your mom

My sisters dead, and if i ever see your face

look, he stopped at "face" because he got knocked the fuck out before he could get a threat out of his mouth.

[Ray]

I will take a 2-12 bet....

O wait..

Lmao

[HHR Ed]

8kw for 30 seconds is extremely brutal on woofers.

I dont care what the ratings are or what someone did or saw someone did with certain woofers, in time even the strongest woofer will need to be reconed at that level.

So I say to look for a subwoofer that can actually utilize 8k each and not just absorb that power.

Look for a woofer with a strong cone, large spiders, 4" coil is preferred but some 3" can hold up. Look for adequate cooling designs and thick gauge tinsel leads.

An efficient and strong motor will also be key. Not the size of the motor, but it's efficiency and focus of magnetic energy on the gap. But there is a fine line, you cant go too tight on the gap like a DDz or you can risk damage while playing music with transients. But not too large on the gap as you will lose some of that efficiency.

[grim83]

i vote n3's from the list no personal experiece but after seeing db dons testing and a few other extreme guys findings those would be able to take it only issue i see coming into play is the paper cone but if the goal is music you shouldnt be seeing high enough pressure levels to fold the cone

:edit: if you believe the cone folding to be an issue then i see no other choice than the dd z but thats my opinion...btw malibu wagon= baller status lol one of my favorite wagons ever

[Sanitarium]

ya! we are hes dating your sister while im dating/bangin your mom

My sisters dead, and if i ever see your face

Better watch out, he might bust a CAPS LOCK in your ass

[Wagonized]

8kw for 30 seconds is extremely brutal on woofers.

I dont care what the ratings are or what someone did or saw someone did with certain woofers, in time even the strongest woofer will need to be reconed at that level.

So I say to look for a subwoofer that can actually utilize 8k each and not just absorb that power.

Look for a woofer with a strong cone, large spiders, 4" coil is preferred but some 3" can hold up. Look for adequate cooling designs and thick gauge tinsel leads.

An efficient and strong motor will also be key. Not the size of the motor, but it's efficiency and focus of magnetic energy on the gap. But there is a fine line, you cant go too tight on the gap like a DDz or you can risk damage while playing music with transients. But not too large on the gap as you will lose some of that efficiency.

please bear with my spelling and punctuation here gents im on. my phone atm.

thanks for the great info. DD z for me isnt a route id like to go. simply bc i know ill need recones at some point and dd seems to be very hot and cold with their customer service at times.

i am definitely looking more at 4 inch coiled woofers for the most part.

also keep in mind that they probably wont see 8k a pc during a bassrace run with imp rise and such but i do fully agree that ill need one hell of a woofer.

if the n3 was available with a carbon fibre cone or composite then i think my mind would be made up. however i do like the extra cone area id have with the wardens...and the fact that its just so different to have a 21“ woofer around here. as much as i hate to say it...with it being very much a demo style vehicle...looks and wow factor will play a role in the build and 21s are right up my alley there.

also for those interested the enclosure is all wood aswell. i can weld but am simply more comfortable working with wood (all jokes aside). hopefully that doesnt hurt my score too much. it will be overbuilt nonetheless.

also i found my notes on the car and my enclosure empty is actually a full 69 cubes. which is very reassuring to me. so with a nice 4.5“ loading wall set @ 50% port area and assuming i use wardens i run them in 23“ tubes of 3.0 cubes per woofer i end up with a fucking MASSIVE ported chamber thats almost 60 cubes on the nose. she should be pretty damn efficient!!!

the sixth order idea may work afterall. however with the awkward shape of the enclosure itself i cant have the ideal spl style 6th order...with subs stacked on pass side and dr side rear chamber port firing into a dr side front chamber much larger port. atleast those are the sixth orders ive seen work best. if anyone has more sixth order pics of spl setups or demo/bassrace/streetbeat/bassboxing setups please post them on this thread bc id love to see them.

Ill make some renderrings on sketchup tomorrow for the fourth and sixth order designs i have so far. considering a rear ported chamber with a top port running horizontally all the way across the enclosure.oorrrrrr center port sounds interesting.

and heres a cpl pics of the car for whoever is interested. this car and i have been through a lot together and a small fortune worth of parts. its had a dozen carbed small blocks...an LS1...and two big blocks. 5 different transmissions. and a ton of fun. but she will never go fast again. i need to do a bit of work to get it where it needs to be as far as driving distances to shows and such. need to reinstall windshield wipers...defrost..emergency brake etc.

this was my old design for 12 18s

i dont have much done on it at the moment...these pics are from a while back. had a prretty killer glash dash build to house 4 10“ midbass and 4 6.5s but it was accidentally thrown out by my roommates. there goes about 100 hours work. this time ill be running stock dash.

this pic shows the rear door open where I plan to add some midranges on the door side so they open up with the door for extra demo points ;-)

rear of the wall done. floor is going to be cut at the rear and battery tray welded to the frame rails.

-may toy with the idea of cutting a hole in the middle of the rear bumper since its fiberglass so i can display the batts. particularly if i had a battery sponsor.....just sayin. also considering. using 16 volt multicells such as batcaps instead of xs powers or kinetiks bc its different and could go well with the theme of using as little gear as possible. i could get by using only 4 batcap 8400s

[SnowDrifter]

IIRC AudioFanaticz can get a hold of 6 inch coils. If you can find/make/get some custom motors... You see where I'm going with this?

[Lbox88]

............

and heres a cpl pics of the car for whoever is interested. this car and i have been through a lot together and a small fortune worth of parts. its had a dozen carbed small blocks...an LS1...and two big blocks. 5 different transmissions. and a ton of fun. but she will never go fast again. i need to do a bit of work to get it where it needs to be as far as driving distances to shows and such. need to reinstall windshield wipers...defrost..emergency brake etc.

this was my old design for 12 18s

i dont have much done on it at the moment...these pics are from a while back. had a prretty killer glash dash build to house 4 10“ midbass and 4 6.5s but it was accidentally thrown out by my roommates. there goes about 100 hours work. this time ill be running stock dash.

this pic shows the rear door open where I plan to add some midranges on the door side so they open up with the door for extra demo points ;-)

rear of the wall done. floor is going to be cut at the rear and battery tray welded to the frame rails.

-may toy with the idea of cutting a hole in the middle of the rear bumper since its fiberglass so i can display the batts. particularly if i had a battery sponsor.....just sayin. also considering. using 16 volt multicells such as batcaps instead of xs powers or kinetiks bc its different and could go well with the theme of using as little gear as possible. i could get by using only 4 batcap 8400s

Fixed those links for ya since you're on mobile and I wanted to see anyways lol.