Lbox88 Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Get some flat stock 1/2"x1/8" steel. Drill a hole for a screw to fit though 1/2" from each end and bend the last 1" at 90 degrees on one side. So if the space between the end of the port and the wall is say 6", make 4 pieces at 8" long so you can put 2 on each side. Use 1/2"-5/8" pan head screws to secure them on the box volume side of the port, you won't see holes from screws and you won't see the brace from the outside at all. First thing that came to my mind UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Need to brace the back wall to the port somehow. Got a couple ideas, but I don't want to block off the port too much, and depends what I can find at Lowe's. Front-to-back all thread? Or you could put a 90 degree angle in the back where the center of the port is and glass that in place. That will help with rigidity and direct the port air a bit. Or some T-beams or angle iron. I've just got a flood of ideas. Not trying to tell you what to do lol ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Zealot, don't care what the meter say's. We'll see what the masses say though. Lbox, that's what I meant by L-brackets. The problem is their width takes that much air flow from the port. But I think I got it; flat stock edge screwed to the port piece, twist the piece 90 deg., so there is less blockage. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Front to back is not logical. I have almost no baffle in the front, and a rod piece that long is useless. "T"s are pointless as well. The back piece itself is what needs bracing. I may just do an external angle iron x-brace. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtnbikecrazy55 Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Just saw this in a random thread, you said you usually roll solo, and this mounted to either the windshield or even back glass would be way cheaper than a go pro for sure since I'm pretty sure you already have a camera: And got a suction cup mount for my camera Here's the link from the one he got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002K8Q0EU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pd_sim_p_6 I hate long signatures.... ...what the fuck is wrong wiht you you fucking fuckity fuck fuck head... Mtnbikecrazy55 Feedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 I found an AQ 120.4 and will be running the Hertz active off of it, so the RF T600-2 is up for sale. Its way too much for my components anyway. If interested, its in the for sale section already. I also found the reason my doors are leaking right onto the speaker location on the doors. The door panels have been off every time i've seen it happen. Well, with the door panels on, it creates pressure on the channel the window travels on, forcing the water to the front "drain", away from the speakers. So, with the panels on, the speakers will be safe. And, still waiting on the Toolmaker terminals. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom50cal Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Have you thought about bracing the back wall with 1/8th inch angle iron, around the edges then welding vertical braces along the back wall? Then drilling through the back wall and anchoring them down. Like in the picture below, the shaded is the angle iron, and the dotted line is the edge of the box, obviously its not to scale but it shows a point. On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said: Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 LOL, not gonna weld in a full frame. The piece is only 12" high, and made of quality 13-ply Baltic Birch. I'm gonna try it with no brace, and if there's an issue, fix it with an "X" of angle iron. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Supposedly my TM parts were dropped off at UPS yesterday, but I still have no tracking info. I'm starting to get annoyed. But, I got a pretty port. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheena Posted April 17, 2013 Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 is there any way of contacting toolmaker through his own site or something off of smd? or is it a caco only thing 09 Civic EX KDC-X395 (2) SKAR Audio VVX-12 Skar Audio SK-1500.1 4 cu ft @32 (new box and more port soon) Firing Forward not sealed off Stock 80 Amp Alt Big 3 In 1/0 Knu 2 Runs To The Back 1 Pos 1 Neg In 1/0 Knu DD-1'd 13.8v drop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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