Kenne Bell 2010 Mustang GT: Speed (slow) and Sound Build

[Lbox88]

Get some flat stock 1/2"x1/8" steel. Drill a hole for a screw to fit though 1/2" from each end and bend the last 1" at 90 degrees on one side. So if the space between the end of the port and the wall is say 6", make 4 pieces at 8" long so you can put 2 on each side. Use 1/2"-5/8" pan head screws to secure them on the box volume side of the port, you won't see holes from screws and you won't see the brace from the outside at all.

First thing that came to my mind

[SnowDrifter]

Need to brace the back wall to the port somehow. Got a couple ideas, but I don't want to block off the port too much, and depends what I can find at Lowe's.

Front-to-back all thread? Or you could put a 90 degree angle in the back where the center of the port is and glass that in place. That will help with rigidity and direct the port air a bit. Or some T-beams or angle iron. I've just got a flood of ideas. Not trying to tell you what to do lol

[OrionStang]

Zealot, don't care what the meter say's. We'll see what the masses say though.

Lbox, that's what I meant by L-brackets. The problem is their width takes that much air flow from the port. But I think I got it; flat stock edge screwed to the port piece, twist the piece 90 deg., so there is less blockage.

[OrionStang]

Front to back is not logical. I have almost no baffle in the front, and a rod piece that long is useless. "T"s are pointless as well. The back piece itself is what needs bracing. I may just do an external angle iron x-brace.

[Mtnbikecrazy55]

Just saw this in a random thread, you said you usually roll solo, and this mounted to either the windshield or even back glass would be way cheaper than a go pro for sure since I'm pretty sure you already have a camera:

And got a suction cup mount for my camera

Here's the link from the one he got:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002K8Q0EU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pd_sim_p_6

[OrionStang]

I found an AQ 120.4 and will be running the Hertz active off of it, so the RF T600-2 is up for sale. Its way too much for my components anyway. If interested, its in the for sale section already.

I also found the reason my doors are leaking right onto the speaker location on the doors. The door panels have been off every time i've seen it happen. Well, with the door panels on, it creates pressure on the channel the window travels on, forcing the water to the front "drain", away from the speakers. So, with the panels on, the speakers will be safe.

And, still waiting on the Toolmaker terminals.

[boom50cal]

Have you thought about bracing the back wall with 1/8th inch angle iron, around the edges then welding vertical braces along the back wall? Then drilling through the back wall and anchoring them down. Like in the picture below, the shaded is the angle iron, and the dotted line is the edge of the box, obviously its not to scale but it shows a point.

[OrionStang]

LOL, not gonna weld in a full frame. The piece is only 12" high, and made of quality 13-ply Baltic Birch.

I'm gonna try it with no brace, and if there's an issue, fix it with an "X" of angle iron.

[OrionStang]

Supposedly my TM parts were dropped off at UPS yesterday, but I still have no tracking info. I'm starting to get annoyed.

But, I got a pretty port.

[Sheena]

is there any way of contacting toolmaker through his own site or something off of smd? or is it a caco only thing