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RF Constant Power a gimmick?


hdorre

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i think the CP amps tend to run hot. Mine does and I see lots of people say theirs do too. I have never had a problem out of it though and RF told me as long as it isn't shutting off it's good to go. They also said part of it is the efficiency of the heat sinks. Who knows how much of that was the guy just talking though. Never had a problem with mine though, and living in Tennessee they start hot during the summer anyway.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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that is too much amp for 2 SA 8's

:trippy:

I guess we'll see :D

I have a T1500bdcp and I love it. I never thought about box rise, but that is a good point and makes the amp even more beneficial.

:good: Im guessing it hasnt given you any problems? Whats the nominal impedance that the amp is seeing?

1 ohm. The amp is running a little hot. I'm adding another 0 gauge ground under the hood and upgrading my batt to see if that helps. I also bought a volt meter to see where I stand on that. No dimming lights and my stock volt meter usually reads around 14v. I have it mounted under my 2nd row seat and it doesn't have the greatest circulation. I took the beauty cover off that surrounded the amp and I put the seat in the forward position to help it breathe. That seems to have helped some. But it sounds great on a single 12" Havoc.

Ive read about minor heat "problems." If the amp gets too hot for my liking, then I suppose i could install fans. My amp will get pretty good circulation, even without fans. Thanks for sharing :)

i jammed 0 gauge into the 4 gauge terminals.. it made a huge difference when watching the volt meter. i used to drop below 10. Then it rarely dropped below 12 volts after i did that.. have a 600 and 1800 kinetik with the big 3. This amp is a monster for its size and rating. It really needs to have 0 gauge inputs IMO

Hmm.. Ill just jam 1/0 awg into my amp too then. I was shocked to see that it has 4 awg inputs. I just thought it was efficient lol

i think the CP amps tend to run hot. Mine does and I see lots of people say theirs do too. I have never had a problem out of it though and RF told me as long as it isn't shutting off it's good to go. They also said part of it is the efficiency of the heat sinks. Who knows how much of that was the guy just talking though. Never had a problem with mine though, and living in Tennessee they start hot during the summer anyway.

If the heat causes any issues, I could always call RF; right (if I buy this from a certified dealer).

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

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Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

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that is too much amp for 2 SA 8's

They could take it. Not daily!

DAMN!!! I knew those 8's were badass, but holy crap. I didn't think they could take all that. I wonder long they would last being pushed like that.

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remember if the amp gets hot its doing its job. its a heat sink.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

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2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

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Still waiting to know how this technology works

Nobody seems to know :peepwall:

Most people don't know how any amp works either :)

remember if the amp gets hot its doing its job. its a heat sink.

that is what they told me, just added in a part about this particular heat sink being really efficient.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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remember if the amp gets hot its doing its job. its a heat sink.

I hear ya. It's just a little too hot for my liking. Hot, as in it would burn you if you held your hand down on it for a few seconds but I have to really push it for it to get that hot. And I've noticed it only gets that hot on one side where the power light is. The other side gets warm but not nearly as hot as the other side. I'm using a stock 50-55 amp hour batt right now on a stock 160 amp alternator. I'm going to replace it with a Diehard Platinum or Shuriken-80 and possibly use my current batt as a second batt. Doesn't hurt to have extra power I suppose.

Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH

Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp

Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12"

Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator

Wiring: RF 0 gauge

Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net

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I clamped my T2500-1bdcp two weeks ago. Wired to .5 nominal on my XL's.

2564 watts rising to 1.6-ohms at 42Hz dropping to 12.2V.

I was very happy with those results. Birthsheet said 3,3XX watts, but that was also at 14.4V with no rise. Rated power at 1.6-ohms and 12.2V works for me.

1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d

Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

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