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Can't Get Enough Port Area Using an Aeroport


SixTwoRado

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Posted

Low port area will reduce efficiency of a box to some extent regardless of the amount of port noise you get. Aero ports have lesser friction losses due to a reduced surface area and lesser surface roughness so -arguably- you can have some lesser cross-sectional area when compared with slot ports.

Posted

Low port area will reduce efficiency of a box to some extent regardless of the amount of port noise you get. Aero ports have lesser friction losses due to a reduced surface area and lesser surface roughness so -arguably- you can have some lesser cross-sectional area when compared with slot ports.

Yah I understand all that, but I just cant get a box to work out in my application with enough port area per foot. I really want to run the SA-12, but I wonder how big the difference would be from an SA-10. Cause maybe I could build a slot ported box in that wedge shape for a 10. Maybe I could just do a slot port out the bottom side with only one common wall to keep it square. IDK. I really dont know what to do.

Posted

25-30 square inches of slot port would be fine for a SA-12, it can be done but it would probably be a pain to do it right and you would need something better than a SA-10 to overtake a sa-12.

Posted

This was (2) 3" Precision Ports in 2.5cuft , Fi Q 12" d1, Kicker zx1000.1

Only comes out to 14.13sqin / 2.5 = 5.65sqin per cuft. Not ideal but it was pretty loud and sounded great.

2000 Trans Am ws6 - 6spd / M9 / cam / full bolt-ons / semi full suspension / tune

1998 Integra - daily beater, [2] AB XFL-1244's / 4ft³@35Hz, 61in² / Saz-3500dv1 @.85Ω

Posted

Only comes out to 14.13sqin / 2.5 = 5.65sqin per cuft. Not ideal but it was pretty loud and sounded great.

Somebody shoot me.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

Posted

Back to the drawing board. SIt down and think of the max dimensions you are willing to dedicate to your box. ABSOLUTE MAX. Only then can you really determine what you can do and what will really sound good. Remember also, the lower you want to tune the more port volume you will need with smaller boxes (overall after you meet some port area per cubic foot goals).

Port area is not JUST to reduce port noise, its also allows the sub to breath and increases output at and around the tuning frequency.

Think of it this way.

98645019.jpg

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

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Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
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Posted

Thanks for all the input and help guys. Thanks for the compliments too. My mind is just going crazy on trying to figure out a box design that will work. I only want to do it if Im going to do it right. I dont do anything half a** and I have serious OCD when it comes to my truck haha. I have about two more months to figure out a proper design. Im really willing to take up a lot of space back there for the sub and I know some work with much smaller spaces. But the problem Im facing is just how my center console sticks back there and the jack hump in the center sticks out. Plus the angle of my seat. I really need to try and keep all the area behind the passenger seat open for those rare occasions where I have to carry a third passenger and I almost always have a bunch of tools back there. I also need the room for moving back and forth to college one more year. I just wish my floor back there was all flat and the back wall was all flat. It would make design a lot easier.

I think I need to just go back to the drawing board as stated above and figure out some slot or aeroport design that will fit just behind my drivers seat. Im open to all suggestions. That box design above is about the max dimensions but it could be varied some. I might have to just resort to an SA 10 instead of an SA 12, but I really want the 12 and "should" have the room. Its just not as easy as building a rectangular box and throwing it in the trunk.

Maybe I could do a slot port on the side of that box with only one common wall to keep it square and away from the angle piece. IDK?

Open to suggestions.

Here is another sub box someone built in a frontier like mine in the same exact space im talking about. This one is a sealed downfire box though with an internal fan cooled amp rack. But its just to give you guys an idea.

1892d1152730290-king-cab-sub-enclosure-2005-nissan-040.jpg

1899d1152731125-king-cab-sub-enclosure-2005-nissan-045.jpg

On a side note I have one quick question. How are people extending 4" and 6" aeroports longer than the 17" that comes in the kit?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So this is how a slot port box would look:

1.75 cubes @ 34.5Hz - 21 square inches of port.

Slaned12SUPS.jpg

Hey man I know its been a while, but I just wanted to say thanks for the design. Its too wide for me but the right kind of shape. Except that I have a hump in the middle of the back of my truck with the jack and it might kind of block the port. I have all my new stuff ordered. All KNU 1/0, SA-12D2, already got my SAZ-1000D in at 2 ohms right now, a new D5100R and a bunch of other stuff.

Im going to get some exact measurements tomorrow and see what I can work out with torres and winisd and google sketchup. Still dont know whether to just go for it on a single aeroport or try to do a slot port with just one common wall at the bottom of the box in the middle.

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