Truconcept Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I thought you were supposed to fuse for the wire not the amp? I Could be wrong.. Your right, you fuse to the wires rating so if it shorts for any reason, the fuse pops before the wire melts or catches on fire. The amp should have it's own internal fusing for its own protection. i saw this in the what i did 2 my ride thread and did not want 2 thread jack i have not ran any fuses for over 2years i had a bad experience with a stinger fuse, it was shit and caused my amp 2 go into protect since then ive been like fuck fuses i see some guys on here use them (as were supose 2 for safety reasons blah blah) others dont use them if i have no fuses and something bad happened wouldnt my volt meter pick that up? what kind of readings would i see if my wires are in the process of melting? what would trigger this fire/wire melting? alt goes bad, battery have a random voltage spike? the only time ive ever heard of someone who was saved by their fuse was my idiot friend who had his power wire running on the driver door hinges p.s- if someone could shine the snafu spotlight in the sky and point him this way id appreciate it **actin bad like a kid at six flags** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 The main reason "I" fuse is to prevent anything from happening when a dead short occurs ... May happen with the wiring, may happen with equipment, may happen accidentally when you are cleaning up and move a wire by mistake and short to ground ... you never know ... I use my truck EVERY day and I move things around all of the time ... Sometimes I even work on my truck while I've been drinking all day, so I never know when I might fuck something up ... LOL Also ... No matter what ... you are working on with your system ... Your wife or kids always finds a reason to move things out of the way to put their shit in your truck, moves a wire and screws something up ... no matter how much I try to tuck and hide wires Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I like to quote Steve Meade again "use fuses, incase of carbeque", out of the RF Magazin. "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Fuse it up. You don't have to be driving for a short to happen. You could look out you window or door one night and see your car in a ball of flames. Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Some higher wattage amplifiers don't have self fusing. That's why you would want to fuse for the rating of the amplifier instead of the rating of the wire. (The wire should have a higher rating than the current draw from the amplifier anyways) Honestly why have the risk of having your car burn down for a few $10 fuse holders and $3 fuses. I will be fusing 18" of both batteries in my next build. front bat - alt front bat - rear bat (2 fuses, 18" of each bat) which might be overkill but oh well. rear bat - to each amp (2) Edit: I have even considered fusing remote wire and the pos wire to the volt meter. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Edit: I have even considered fusing remote wire and the pos wire to the volt meter. Yes Sir ... Done that to mine Within 18 inches of the headunit and within 18 inches of each amp ... Not much current draw there (we all know this) but there is voltage there that can cause a short of something goes wrong ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pioneerchuck Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 It's always worth the $50 or so to fuse up the system. Even if you've only got a beginners system. Not worth it to lose not only your system but your car over a couple fuses and some fuse blocks. As for what could cause it, lets say an amp went bad. The amp could begin to pull more and more power overloading the wiring you have going to it therefore resulting in a melted/burned wire due to lack of a fuse. It also goes on the flip side and if one of the electrical components went bad in an alt or a battery, it could in theory send too much power down the line past what that of the wire can withstand and result in a fire or a melted wire. So anytime you have a chance to fuse it, do it. And I think within 18 inches of the power source is the recommended distance when fusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutliff Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 FUSE! Or in my case, Circuit Break it!!! One up front, & one at the rear ... anything could happen "in-between". Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Fuse, always fuse, that is the answer! NEXT! CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truconcept Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Fuse, always fuse, that is the answer! NEXT! no not next, not yet if i have no fuses and something bad happened wouldnt my volt meter pick that up? what kind of readings would i see if my wires are in the process of melting? and so far 1 guy answered this i want more! what would trigger this fire/wire melting? another question if i wire the fuse 18inches from the battery and something terrible happens wouldnt i have 18 inches of wire on fire? **actin bad like a kid at six flags** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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