STEALTH808 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 EVERYTHING ABOUT YOUR SETUP SAYS NO TO LOWS. SUBS, PORT, TUNING. AND YES, I JUST DID THAT IN ALL CAPS TEAM SUNDOWN HAWAIIHAWAIICARAUDIO.NET 150Db Club 160Db club in the future I see krakin as a threat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroupe79 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 single layered in a box that's 15 cubes....seems like everything should/would be flexing like all hell....you need to brace the shit outta this box.... like mentioned, you are probably smoothering your port if you only have 2-3inches of clearance for it... http://www.stevemead...cherokee-build/ 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alpine CDE-hd148bt Alpine PKG-RSE2 PRV Audio (4) 6MB200 front/rear doors PRV Audio (4) TW350Ti dash/rear doors Kicker KX350.4 Obsidian Audio (1) 18 D4 v2 revamp (2) Stereo Integrity HT 18d2DC Audio 1.2k5.25ft^3 tuned @34hz revamp Infinite Baffle Cpillar AudioTechnix 60mil deadenerKnuKonceptz & SkyHigh wire (complete setup) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanz Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Maybe it's rebuild time for a taller box but I'm gonna pick up some all thread soon cause it is flexing a good bit on some low note songs so since it's flexing I'm probably losing out on the lows that way That's why they don't deliver. Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait. You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Back to the drawing board... CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 EVERYTHING ABOUT YOUR SETUP SAYS NO TO LOWS. SUBS, PORT, TUNING. AND YES, I JUST DID THAT IN ALL CAPS. hdc3s can get low without tuning low. They are stiff as shit brand new. Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Tuning? 36 hz What subs? Audioque HDC 3s What amp? Cresendo 3500 How much port area and what are the dimensions of said port? 178.25 and the port is 15.5 H X 11.5W X 22 L How far is the port from your hatch?port is pretty close about 2-3 inches How many layers is the box? All single layed except the baffle which is two layers Needed 11 1/2" of free airspace in front of the port and got 3". Likely rolling of just below Fs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanz Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Well im looking at some threaded rod and it looks like 1/2 would work what do you guys think? That's why they don't deliver. Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait. You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 being that close to the hatch is choking your port. The 1/2 will work fine THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanz Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 being that close to the hatch is choking your port. The 1/2 will work fine It sounds okay but when i lowed the seats and pushed the box back a bit it got a bit quieter Damn i should have just made the box taller but its my first time doing a box in this vehicle ..SO im off to get some all thread so how would i brace it with my port being in the middle just drill a hole on both sides of the box and just attach them to the port itself? That's why they don't deliver. Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait. You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 I use 3/4" Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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