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The DD-1 is a well engineered piece of test equipment. If used the way Tony and Steve have described in their tutorial videos, you are not going to damage your amp.

However, you cannot take the instructions from a single example video and use that procedure for every possible install. For example: A head unit line output of 2V running into an amp with a max line input of 5V will work and is idiot proof. However if you have an active EQ or line driver that can output 8 or 10V, the amp inputs can't handle that high of a line level voltage, so you need to set the line output differently. In this case, you need to set the EQ/line driver using the "through the amp method". Steve has shown this in a couple of videos. This will set the output of the EQ/line driver to the maximum safe input to the amp. Then once this is done you adjust the amp gains. If you don't do this you can feed to much line signal voltage into your amp. This could damage the amp inputs as well as make it impossible to obtain an undistorted signal at the amp outputs no matter what the gains are set at.

The DD-1 is not at fault for someone not understanding their equipment and how to use the tools correctly for their install.

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Yeah I know it's not accurate. Haha. That's just my own little "ballpark area" way of doing it.

oh "ballpark" is probably ok with one amp....but imagine a DVC sub with an amp on each coil. I will take "exact" in that case. Even if they are in the same chamber....hell, even if they are not in the same chamber. Same thing for door speakers. If you have a 4 channel, its pretty important. I wouldn't want one door at 90 and the other at 225. Its easy to be THAT far off.

now this i didnt know.... i reaaly need to just buy a dd1

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I agree with Steve, if you have more than one amplifier in your system the CC-1 is a must. On the surface it seems like if your crossovers weren't adjusted properly it wouldn't make that much of a difference in output, only in sound quality. FALSE.

Example: A DVC or 2 subwoofers on two amplifiers. Amplifiers are legit 3000 Watts per channel. Crossovers on these amps were set "by eyeball" Amplifiers have 24dB/Oct crossovers, actual crossover point set at 65Hz the other at 95Hz. (very easy to do if you are aiming for 80Hz and your knob has 30Hz at one end and 300Hz at the other) Let us also say for this example that we are trying to play a 60Hz signal to our subwoofer(s).

Amplifier A - 3000 Watts, crossover set at 65Hz. When playing 60Hz the output signal is going to be 164.3 degress out of phase with the input signal

Amplifier B - 3000 Watts, crossover set at 95Hz. When playing 60Hz the output signal is going to be 101.7 degrees out of phase with the input signal

So the two amplifiers are 62.6 degrees out of phase with each other at 60Hz! Okay, so what does this mean? This means that your TWO 3000 Watt amplifiers ARE NOT putting out 6000 Watts TOGETHER. They are only putting out (6000 W * SIN(62.6deg)) = 5341 Watts.

Want 659 Watts FOR FREE? Get a CC-1 and set your crossovers properly :)

freqvsamp_zpsd9e7c665.jpg

phase_zps3c0103f3.jpg

phaseandamplitude_zps824cca31.jpg

- Tony D

Edited by TonyD'Amore
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great, now i need to find someone with a cc-1 to. "sigh" it just never ends with the what needed list when tony d and steve are talking.

you guys do some great work, i just need to hurry up and move to the lower 48 so i can find someone i can pay to dd-1 and cc-1 my setup.

Edited by alaskanzx5
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Did this particular amp buzz internally when the dd-1 detected distortion?

nope.


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