iKidwell Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 I have plenty of slack in my wire, it's just soldering it into that little plastic harness makes me worry that I'm gonna get in there and melt some shit I shouldn't lol c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old. i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer. 2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan Build in Progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 So the wire from the harness is gone? If that's the case get a new harness, cut the old one out, and solder the new one in. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Okay I had this exact problem before and it was just a bad connection from battery to amp. The ground spot was pretty crappy so I upgraded with a nut and bolt to hold it tight to the body support on my old car. For the wire going from front to back I had high resistance from my fuse block so I changed that but it still was a problem where under full tilt at low bass notes the bass cut off and came back and would only play at low volumes just like yours. I upgraded power wire and it worked perfect after. Heres what you can try before you check the power wire: Bypass the headunit completely by getting a headphone to rca jack from radioshack or any other small electronics parts store. Connect the headphone side to your laptop, ipod, phone, whatever you can play music from and then connect the rca's to the input on the amp. See if the amp powers on and when you play the music from the device connected to the headphone cable the sub should play. You will more than likely have to turn the gain down a bit as the voltage off headphones is very low so you may also want to give this a try depending on how hard the sub plays. If the sub plays just fine then your problem is with the headunit. If the sub cuts off then the problem is with the amp or speakers. If after doing that you still have it cutting out do this: Get a DMM and set it to ohms. Get long leads or use old speaker cable so that you can test resistance from the positive terminal of your front battery to the positive terminal on your amp. NOTE: DO NOT EVER test resistance from positive to negative. Only test resistance from positive to positive or negative to negative!!! Before testing the power wires make the extension leads touch together and write down the initial resistance as you will need to subtract this from the resistance you find when testing your power and grounds. Test the positive off the battery to the positive off the amp, write down the resistance. Test the negative off the battery to the negative off your amp, write down the value. Test the negative off your amp to the negative of your grounding location where the wire is bolted and write down the resistance. When you have those measurements feel free to PM me and ill help you. You may have a bad or loose power wire somewhere in the system or you simply have too much voltage drop. One final test you can do would be to hook the amp up to someone elses electrical whether it be its own dedicated battery or to someone elses car but try that too to bypass your cars electrical system. Oh and do you happen to have a Cap installed at all? I also noticed this problem but it was fast for when it cut in and out and was caused from me drawing more current than the cap could hold and release so the cap would be fully discharged and it caused a problem where the voltage would drop down to 9v and then back up to 14v once it recharged. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iKidwell Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Okay I had this exact problem before and it was just a bad connection from battery to amp. The ground spot was pretty crappy so I upgraded with a nut and bolt to hold it tight to the body support on my old car. For the wire going from front to back I had high resistance from my fuse block so I changed that but it still was a problem where under full tilt at low bass notes the bass cut off and came back and would only play at low volumes just like yours. I upgraded power wire and it worked perfect after. Heres what you can try before you check the power wire: Bypass the headunit completely by getting a headphone to rca jack from radioshack or any other small electronics parts store. Connect the headphone side to your laptop, ipod, phone, whatever you can play music from and then connect the rca's to the input on the amp. See if the amp powers on and when you play the music from the device connected to the headphone cable the sub should play. You will more than likely have to turn the gain down a bit as the voltage off headphones is very low so you may also want to give this a try depending on how hard the sub plays. If the sub plays just fine then your problem is with the headunit. If the sub cuts off then the problem is with the amp or speakers. If after doing that you still have it cutting out do this: Get a DMM and set it to ohms. Get long leads or use old speaker cable so that you can test resistance from the positive terminal of your front battery to the positive terminal on your amp. NOTE: DO NOT EVER test resistance from positive to negative. Only test resistance from positive to positive or negative to negative!!! Before testing the power wires make the extension leads touch together and write down the initial resistance as you will need to subtract this from the resistance you find when testing your power and grounds. Test the positive off the battery to the positive off the amp, write down the resistance. Test the negative off the battery to the negative off your amp, write down the value. Test the negative off your amp to the negative of your grounding location where the wire is bolted and write down the resistance. When you have those measurements feel free to PM me and ill help you. You may have a bad or loose power wire somewhere in the system or you simply have too much voltage drop. One final test you can do would be to hook the amp up to someone elses electrical whether it be its own dedicated battery or to someone elses car but try that too to bypass your cars electrical system. Oh and do you happen to have a Cap installed at all? I also noticed this problem but it was fast for when it cut in and out and was caused from me drawing more current than the cap could hold and release so the cap would be fully discharged and it caused a problem where the voltage would drop down to 9v and then back up to 14v once it recharged. I don't have any voltage drop, i've checked it with a dmm with the car on at the amp, never dropped lower than mid 13's at idle, above 14.2 driving, i'm gonna see about checking the resistance thing, but i don't think it's the head unit, it's brand new, like 3 days old. I'm willing to be there's a bad spot in a wire somewhere in the power or ground. c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old. i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer. 2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan Build in Progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moegej Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 hey kickass audio you seem to be very very intelligent when it comes to solving problems so i ask you. can you please look at my last thread and help me figure out my problem? sorry to thread jack or anything but it sucks when your system doesnt work the way its supposed too. im out of ideas. take a look at it and let me know what you think. thanks.. 06 v6 Mustangbig 3Mechman 270 Hybrid G2 interstate batteriesBC3500 wired at 12 Sundown x-10 D4's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CW06Silvy Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 I'm willing to bet the power wire is fine as well as the ground. He is having issues with multiple items connected to the remote circuit.. Sounds to me like the remote wire is shorted somewhere or is unsecured and the insulation has come off causing an intermittent short. I would pull the RCA wire out and check it over and look over your wire routing. I'm willing to bet the old RCA's shorted out in about the same spot and that improper wire routing is causing you all the problems. You probably replaced the pinched or shorted RCA's without knowing it, and the remote is doing the same.. 2006 Silverado Ext. Cab 6-15" SSA ZCONS 4th Order Blow-Through Pioneer AVH-P4200dvd American Bass VFL 1100.1 12 volt 6 C&D Batteries 2-350A Singer Alternators and Stock Alt DC Power Triple Alt Kit MLA Module 3 Runs of 1/0 2 Sets of Boston Acoustics 6.5 Pro Components Boston Acoustics 2-channel Lots of Sound Deadener ....Build still in Progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CW06Silvy Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 also I almost forgot.. CHECK YOUR CHASSIS GROUND!!! check the ground wires from the chassis to the engine block and from the chassis to the battery.. Maybe you have a bad connection there and that is causing a resistance on ground which could cause some of the troubles you are experiencing. 2006 Silverado Ext. Cab 6-15" SSA ZCONS 4th Order Blow-Through Pioneer AVH-P4200dvd American Bass VFL 1100.1 12 volt 6 C&D Batteries 2-350A Singer Alternators and Stock Alt DC Power Triple Alt Kit MLA Module 3 Runs of 1/0 2 Sets of Boston Acoustics 6.5 Pro Components Boston Acoustics 2-channel Lots of Sound Deadener ....Build still in Progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 what size is the remote wire too? i had a similar problem and it was caused by voltage drop across the remote cable. went to a little bigger size and it never happened again. the first size was really small. check the resistance on the subs too. the amp could have taken out the subs when it went. look over the tinsel leads and feel for any grittiness when you push on the cone. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iKidwell Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 what size is the remote wire too? i had a similar problem and it was caused by voltage drop across the remote cable. went to a little bigger size and it never happened again. the first size was really small. check the resistance on the subs too. the amp could have taken out the subs when it went. look over the tinsel leads and feel for any grittiness when you push on the cone. when the amp went it was on 2 lvl 3 10's, i now have 2 flxx 15's, completely diff subs, but subs are fine. remote wire is like 16 ga i guess, idk, tiny lol, i was gonna get bigger but everyone told me it was unnecessary, so i didnt. I'm going to check on my rca/remote being pinched. I really think it's something to do with my remote or power though. Also, today i tried using a jumper wire from my remote to +12v on my amp and the amp didn't produce any sound, the green light kind of flashed on and off, but like slow and smooth, not fast and completely on and off, i'd never seen an amp do that...so i tested it again on my friend's car and it still works perfect in his. c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old. i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer. 2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan Build in Progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeAlLsTaR13 Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 rip everything out, and install all new wiring from power wires grounds remote wires rcas ect. bet the problem will go away Team Sundown Audio**CURRENT** -- 2012 Scion tC Build Click Here **OLD** -- 2002 Pontiac Grand AM Build Click Herecheck them out, slap me a comment2002 Pontiac Grand AM SE 2.2l 4 cylinder ecotec.-------------------------------------------------------------------Head Unit - Alpine CDA-9887Subs - 2x Z 12 v.2s - v.3 + NS Soft partsAmplifier - Sundown Audio SAZ-3500DEnclosure - 3.33 Cubes tuned to 34.66hzFront Stage - JBL P660c 6.5" ComponentsRear Deck - Powerbass 4xl 6.5" Mid-RangeFront Stage Amplifier - Sundown Audio SAX-100.4DWires - Kicker Hyperflex 1/0, KnuKonceptz 1/0, Knu 4 and 8 Gauge, Kicker RCAsElectrical - 275 AMP DC Power H/O Alternator, XS Power S3400, XS Power D2700Videos - http://www.youtube.com/user/BeAILsTaR13------------------------------------------------------------------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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