shepherd92683 Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 I bought a battery tender plus a few weeks ago and fully charged my d3400 and hc2400. It started out good for about a week and its now starting to do the 12.4-12.6 shuffle. It will stay there for up to 10 mins before charging up to 13.6-14.1. I checked my resting voltage this morning and they both sat at 12.5. Only thing I can think is I need an external regulator on the alt or just man up and get a new alt with a n external period lol. Any other thoughts? 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepherd92683 Posted August 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 More voltage issues... I rewired my big 3 grounds to the frame and thats where it seemed to start. I now at engine start charge at 14.1-14.3 when it used to be 14.6-14.9 and now while driving floats around 12.7-13.0 but will drop to 12.1 without anything playing. Resting voltage is 12.6 on both batteries with the engine off. I didnt think optimizing my ground would lower my voltage... What can I do to troubleshoot? 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Does your '08 Trailblazer have a hall-effect clamp around the stock negative cable? If so, then all grounds from the battery must pass through it. Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Couple things: 1. I DO NOT trust Schumacher chargers at all. Every single one I have gotten has done fucked up things and usually try to start charging at 16V+. 2. If you have an '08, it should be a PCM/RVC controlled alt right? Try this for me, next time it starts to drop in voltage while driving, turn your headlights on, not just the DRL, but use the rotary knob on the column to turn the lights on. 3. Do you have a Menards nearby? Take a look at the Genius Chargers, they're very similar to the CTEK chargers, I own this one and it has been treating me well so far: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/batteries-chargers-jumpers/3500ma-battery-charger/p-1798465-c-9100.htm UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knockin'hoe97 Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 If you say it drops inconsistently to 12.6, I would check to make sure all your connections are secured. I had same problem where voltage would randomly drop from mid 13s to low 12s while playing music and went back to find out a loose connection on my rear battery bank was causing it. I've learned to always check the simple stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Does your '08 Trailblazer have a hall-effect clamp around the stock negative cable? If so, then all grounds from the battery must pass through it. beat me to it, was just gonna say! 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Are you sure your alt is charging? In my car, if I don't have heat/ac on our lights, I'm voltage will stay at my batteries voltage of around 12.7. But when one of those are on, or at random times while I'm driving if one is not on, it goes up to 14.4 On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepherd92683 Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Does your '08 Trailblazer have a hall-effect clamp around the stock negative cable? If so, then all grounds from the battery must pass through it. To answer that, i dont know. The ground i have is mated with the vehicles ground to the battery. Couple things: 1. I DO NOT trust Schumacher chargers at all. Every single one I have gotten has done fucked up things and usually try to start charging at 16V+. 2. If you have an '08, it should be a PCM/RVC controlled alt right? Try this for me, next time it starts to drop in voltage while driving, turn your headlights on, not just the DRL, but use the rotary knob on the column to turn the lights on. 3. Do you have a Menards nearby? Take a look at the Genius Chargers, they're very similar to the CTEK chargers, I own this one and it has been treating me well so far: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/batteries-chargers-jumpers/3500ma-battery-charger/p-1798465-c-9100.htm I have the battery tender plus and it seems to have done a fine job so far. I do not have much knowledge on the PCM/RVC side of things and am not sure how to tell what I have. I will try the headlight trick tomorrow. I checked my connections to be sure and everything is ok. Is it really possible that moving my big 3 ground from my battery from the chassis to the frame could've caused all this? I think I also have a parasitic drain coming from my door controls on my drivers side. The led's always stay on after my car is turned off and I dont know how to go about finding how to stop it. 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 I suggest that you take a close look at the factory negative cable for the hall effect clamp I speak of. If you have ground cables that do not pass through this clamp, that could explain your problems. Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasRam Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 a battery charger isnt going to "fix" this problem, test for voltage drops throughout the entire circuit, from battery + to second battery + and so on thru the grounds, if that checks out then the alt cant keep up with the drainage 2010 Ram 1500, Pioneer deh80prs,2-12" RE SXXv2's downfired in vinal wrapped center console box, kenwood 6x9's in the doors on a mtx 4 channel, viper 5901, big 3, kinetik 2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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