95 south Posted June 16, 2013 Report Posted June 16, 2013 Guys I was wondering how many runs should I do for my SUV. I have 2 Rockford Fosgate 2500-bdcp amps on the subs and a 600-4 on the mids. I also have 4 batteries in the rear with a 270 amp alt up front. Right now I have 2 runs of power to the rear and everything else is grounded in the rear. Please help because I am still getting a lot of voltage drop? No System......GFY
P4killer_ Posted June 16, 2013 Report Posted June 16, 2013 Check your connections first. Check where your measuring voltage at. Define really bad voltage drop? Your running .. about 7k.. could be a lot of things. Check resting voltage of each bat independent. How are the rear batts connected? Could be a bottle neck Need more info/pics Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s
95 south Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Posted June 16, 2013 I am sitting at 14.4 cold, 13.9/14.0 hot when at idle without bumping music. The drop happens when I bang the system. I think its a ground problem because I am only ground(batteries and amps) in the rear and not running 0 gauge ground from front to back? No System......GFY
Tarball Posted June 16, 2013 Report Posted June 16, 2013 how quick does the voltage drop, could need more alt. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
95 south Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Posted June 16, 2013 It drops instantly....Then when I idle up the engine it bounces around between 13.8 to 12.6. No System......GFY
Tarball Posted June 17, 2013 Report Posted June 17, 2013 Do you have a charger for your batts ? If you are banging your system everytime you drive the 270amp alt wont be able to keep up with your potential current draw, leaving your batteries discharged. Definately check all your grounds first but remember that power has to come from somewhere. You also may want to isolate (to test, I dont mean permanent isolators) each battery, maybe one of them is going bad. What are your individual batt voltage measurements with car off? CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
RooTxBeeR Posted June 17, 2013 Report Posted June 17, 2013 What size are the runs? 2 1/0 awg would be good for 700 amps, your probably right underneath that. I would personally run 3 power wires, 3 grounds and also keep the ground in the back. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
kirill007 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Posted June 17, 2013 How is it grounded in the rear? (pictures maybe?) Check all the connections, to see if they are still secure. He won't have a 700amp draw, closer to 400A at full volume. (except if he is playing test tones and pink noise through the speakers) Offcourse at idle the alternator won't cut it, you need to get to 2k rpms or something. Bouncing between 13.8v and 12.6v if you turn up the rpms? That means your amps are drawing more then the alternator can put out, so your batteries are going to get drained. Dropping to 12.6V isn't that bad, if you don't feel comfortable at that voltage you should upgrade the alternator, no amount of batteries will help you stay above 13v. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for.
95 south Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Posted June 17, 2013 Its grounded in the rear only. I have no runs of 0 gauge negative going from front to back so that may be the problem? I have 2 runs of positive going front to back though. All 4 batteries in the rear are grounded in the rear. No System......GFY
tacomaguy1 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Posted June 17, 2013 Where are they grounded to? Is it a good solid connection Team Flex Issues
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.