momofx76 Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 I thought that resin would help with stiffening my mdf box for 2 15's but I noticed one of the seams got a hairline crack in it today. Will bracing with a 3/4" threaded rod (side to side, front to back) and some 1" dowels (top to bottom) help strengthen this box after fixing it? Will this also help with spl? Thx! Box is tuned to 38Hz and approx. 7.7 cu. ft. net with triple 6" aero's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Pics? Resin alone will do nothing for the strength of the enclosure Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Yes bracing will help. Will you gain db, maybe a few tenths. Resin by itself does not add any strength Edit: not sure why you would use dowels when you're already using all thread 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowledge Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 stick with allthread its what i did REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momofx76 Posted July 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 Hey thanks for the pics. I was gonna use dowels for the top to bottom because the box sits flat agains the trunk floor. I guess I could use something to raise it up a little and go with the allthread. Also I noticed you bolted them on the inside too. I just bolted the outside - is that ok or do I need to bolt the inside as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted July 31, 2013 Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 pretty sure the bolt inside(nut) is to keep the walls from bowing/ to stop you from over tightening the all thread and cause bowing Hey thanks for the pics. I was gonna use dowels for the top to bottom because the box sits flat agains the trunk floor. I guess I could use something to raise it up a little and go with the allthread. Also I noticed you bolted them on the inside too. I just bolted the outside - is that ok or do I need to bolt the inside as well? Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momofx76 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Doh @ me! It makes perfect sense so thats what I did! Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikitaaa Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 pretty sure the bolt inside(nut) is to keep the walls from bowing/ to stop you from over tightening the all thread and cause bowing Hey thanks for the pics. I was gonna use dowels for the top to bottom because the box sits flat agains the trunk floor. I guess I could use something to raise it up a little and go with the allthread. Also I noticed you bolted them on the inside too. I just bolted the outside - is that ok or do I need to bolt the inside as well? This..First time I used all thread and didn't use a bolt on the inside it bent the shit out of the wood before it added any structural support. 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Not trying to argue but if Resin alone dries hard then if it's applied to inside and outside of box to seal it then why wouldn't it reinforce it somewhat? Even if it's only the slightest bit. I'm not suggesting adding it to reinforce alone but if sealing the box with it anyways I would feel after it dried hard that it would take more pressure to flex the sides of a sub box than without it. Maybe it doesn't do enough to matter? Granted it would never take the place of actual bracing whatever you you might choose. EDIT: My sub box is 90% done, below is a link to the thread of the design of it. Used 3/4" MDF and running 4 - 15" RF T2 subs. Would you guys recommend threaded rod bracing front to back and side to side for my box or do you think it's not needed? My box seems Very similar to the pics. posted above is why I am asking. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170750-custom-box-4-15-tahoehelp/ 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mothra Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Not trying to argue but if Resin alone dries hard then if it's applied to inside and outside of box to seal it then why wouldn't it reinforce it somewhat? Even if it's only the slightest bit. I'm not suggesting adding it to reinforce alone but if sealing the box with it anyways I would feel after it dried hard that it would take more pressure to flex the sides of a sub box than without it. Maybe it doesn't do enough to matter? Granted it would never take the place of actual bracing whatever you you might choose. EDIT: My sub box is 90% done, below is a link to the thread of the design of it. Used 3/4" MDF and running 4 - 15" RF T2 subs. Would you guys recommend threaded rod bracing front to back and side to side for my box or do you think it's not needed? My box seems Very similar to the pics. posted above is why I am asking. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170750-custom-box-4-15-tahoehelp/ Resin has little to no linear strength (flat surface). It's strength is in curves. It's like rebar and concrete. Rebar is super strong when being pulled but extremely weak when compressed while concrete is extremely weak when stretched but extremely strong when compressed. Even though concrete is super hard it has no real strength when laid out flat that's why side walks and driveways crack so easily. Adding resin to the inside of a box is like making a driveway of just concrete, it makes the surface smooth but doesn't add any strength that the ground (wood in this case) under it doesn't already have. if nothing changes, nothing changes You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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