Jump to content

what is HeadRoom?


rickybobby

Recommended Posts

i have seen/read topics on SQ here when someone mentions HeadRoom, but never found the real meaning. from what is mentioned it is, choosing an amp with lots of headroom? right? so would there be more power available from the amp than the rated RMS of the comonents being used? but not necessarily overpowering the front stage.

03 s-10 owned since 35k now 150k

alpine type-s 6.5 comp

alpine type-e 10 ported fiberglass

jl 300/4 (dead)

jl500/1 (dead)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would describe headroom as the ability to have more power available than you need so you can keep your amp gains lower in order to be more efficient, thus allowing more "headroom".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My speakers are rated to handle 100W rms.

I use an amp that is rated to put out 120W rms.

I now have 20W of head room.

But I tune the amp to play with no distortion and I end up keeping power levels below 100W.

This lets the system run cooler, more efficient, and cleaner and more reliable.

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would describe headroom as the ability to have more power available than you need so you can keep your amp gains lower in order to be more efficient, thus allowing more "headroom".

You hit the nail on the head.

Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born.

My penis is bigger than your penis

I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This lets the system run cooler, more efficient, and cleaner and more reliable.

^^^ YES, of course I was speaking in terms of running the amps at full tilt, 100% efficiency, with using numbers as factory rated. It is imperative to set them up properly so you are producing max power with no distortion which won't be near full tilt if you allow yourself plenty of headroom which coincides with what HHR Ed said.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Headroom can also mean having a bigger amp then need but wired to a higher impedance. Then you can add more speakers wire to a lower impedance and power more speakers with the same amp.

I have 2 tweets rated at 50rms and 2 6.5 mids at 100 rms each. I use a 400.4 so I have extra power I could use by doubling my tweets and mids then wiring them to a higher impedance. Now that all won't get rated rms but it would be more cone area with close to 3/4 rms so it would still increase my total output.

Save money by only buying the 1 amp with out having to buy a bigger amp later to upgrade.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with HHR additionally I have headroom with my electrical. I have a 320 amp alt and 3 batteries for my 2000 watt system which never actually plays at 2k lol. Especially when everything is running at 4ohms

Scion tC SQ Build
iPad mini, lots of fabrication, daily driven
Ford Explorer C Pillar Wall Build

Just a cheap car to destroy with bass :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see you lurking Cableguy.

I am scared to post anything lest you make me look foolish. lol

12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro

Build & Comment Log

Un-Interrupted Build Log
YouTube Channel

Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install


You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got my system much like HHR Ed said. For my mids and highs, my amps are rated at 1.25x to 1.5x what the speakers are rated for. Then when running the O-Scope on the RCAs and on the Amps themselves- I don't set things up to a "soft clip" - I set them down where they can never clip, and then turn them down some more. And even with that, the speakers still get plenty of powa.

Everything plays clean, amps aren't stressed, speakers are happy, everything happy happy.

12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro

Build & Comment Log

Un-Interrupted Build Log
YouTube Channel

Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install


You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...