Azamar Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Here is my current setup, I am new here so if I miss anything please let me know. The vehicle is a 03 Ford Explorer Sport(not sport trac) Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-X896 Front speakers are Focal 165 A1SG components Rear speakers are Focal 1656 CA1SG coaxials 4-Channel Amp is a JL Slash 300/4v2 I used a Stinger 4 AWG wiring kit (SK6241) and their mid level RCA's to connect the amp, making sure to put an inline fuse about 8 inches away from the battery. The system has run great for the past year and a half until yesterday. While driving on the highway with the volume set to 27(75%) the sound cut out randomly. It came back on about 3 seconds later and played for a minute and cut off again, this time taking around 10 seconds before turning back on. Eventually it got to where I would only get a flicker of audio and it would be off most of the time. I checked out the amp and saw the green power LED would come on an off every 3 seconds. When metered, I saw it start at 14v with the green LED on, then drop to 8v in a matter of seconds with the LED turning off under 10v. The voltage would then raise back up to 13.5v or so and repeat. When I checked the fuse under the hood I found this. The melted end had the wire coming in from the battery I also noticed there are circle marks on the sides of the fuse holder if that means anything What I can't figure out is what caused this and why the fuse didn't pop. If anyone here has any ideas fire away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Its a bad.connection. causes resistance. Fuse is probably melted solid because of it THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soccerballzs Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Faulty fuse probably along with it being to big for 4 gauage. Bad connection also. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azamar Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Its a bad.connection. causes resistance. Fuse is probably melted solid because of it The connection at the car's battery and B+ terminal of the amp are both solid. The ground is less than 14" and is also solid so where is bad connection at? The fuse and its holder are definitely fried, but buying a new one isn't what I'm afraid of. I trying to stop it from happening again and causing a fire or something. Did a connection come loose or was it just a defective fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 The connection to the fuse holder. You know the spot that melted into a pile. It has nothing to do with anything but the connections in the fuse holder THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azamar Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Okay good, thanks for the clarification, any idea on why it would be fine for almost two years and decide to give out now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 May not have been fine. May have been fine ans after all that time something cracked or worked loose etc. Its really tough to tell. Im not a fan of those fuse holders in the slightest ive seen that happen to a ton of them. Close second are the junk knu fuse holders. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azagtoth502 Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Got loose, wire corroded or oxidized maybe. pa-pa-platypus sorry not everybody has a companies nuts so far down their throat they catch every drop ball sweat when it falls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 You should periodically go through and re-tighten all your connections, and clean them if needed. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Heat,.. from amperage going high, from a not good connection. Or the HOLDER in question was not able to handle said amperage, (not voltage) That seems to ME why BOTH ends are goooooy. Not one, or the other. I didnt read, but what size fuse did you have in there? Seems the fuse for the wire gauge, was to high. Or the wire was asked to much, then fuse was laid in. Just me. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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