soundstream15 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Came across this video and it sounds like he knows his shit lol that is why I'm posting this. To see if this actually does do a better job instead of engine block. So should we run a extra ground from alt casing to battery neg? Is that what he is saying. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K3EFGlHPFDk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 I only did the Big 2. Come at me bro. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 When I did mine I went with three ground points. One from battery to frame to block, then one from battery to lower alt bolt. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundstream15 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Yeah I might ground alt bolt to battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 No reason to run alt casing to front battery. That's not where the bulk of your current will be flowing from. Unless you like to charge a dead front battery every time you drive your car or something. I have mine does as follows: Alt positive to battery Alt casing to strut tower Battery negative to strut tower. Alt and battery both share a common ground ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 No reason to run alt casing to front battery. That's not where the bulk of your current will be flowing from. Unless you like to charge a dead front battery every time you drive your car or something. I have mine does as follows: Alt positive to battery Alt casing to strut tower Battery negative to strut tower. Alt and battery both share a common ground to me this is the way it should be done. I would prefer frame instead of strut tower but that is kinda application specific. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 No reason to run alt casing to front battery. That's not where the bulk of your current will be flowing from. Unless you like to charge a dead front battery every time you drive your car or something. I have mine does as follows: Alt positive to battery Alt casing to strut tower Battery negative to strut tower. Alt and battery both share a common ground to me this is the way it should be done. I would prefer frame instead of strut tower but that is kinda application specific. My car doesn't have a frame ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Exactly why I said application dependant. Some cars its a better option some it isn't. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin0943 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 same here alt to +batt,-batt to fram,-batt to block with this I have a t1000bd amp on stock batt and alt an I just recently reclamp all my lugs and got the wire brush to them also, voltage dips 10.5-11v 02 dodge ram 1500 reg cab 3rd gen 2 sundown sd-2 d4 soundstream rub1.2500 amp all sky high car audio-fuse,fuse holder,wire,ring lugs and rca flex tech box design by Joe X supension-mcgaughys 2in drop spindal ,western chassis 6in flip kit,buddy custom c-notch 04 5.7l hemi motor swap and made it an slt eletric everthing youtube channel-http://www.youtube.c...43?feature=mhee http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190882-02-dodge-ram-1500-3rd-gen/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 There is no one way it should be done. There's a couple options. All that's necessary is to complete a circuit, it's as simple as that. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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