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Do you run individual remote wires or run 1 in series for multiple amps?


JEFFYBOI

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The car chassis is your common ground...

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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they do share a common ground though.

The chasis... as far as the radio and amp is concerned, but what I'm saying is there isn't a positive and negative run for a remote wire, just positive... the remote signal from the headunit grounds itself out at the amp

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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The car chassis is your common ground...

read my response above lol

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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not a break in the remote wire though, just a relay failure. all amps except the one with the bad relay would work

Yes that is correct. Sorry misunderstood what you were trying to say. As long as you have a route for current to get to the other amps.

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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I would say it ground itself through the amp. The remote wire isn't grounded at the remote turn on terminal else would ground out the remote turn on circuit of the HU and no amps would work.

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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Share on other sites

they do share a common ground though.

The chasis... as far as the radio and amp is concerned, but what I'm saying is there isn't a positive and negative run for a remote wire, just positive... the remote signal from the headunit grounds itself out at the amp

so my amps are wired in series to my battery up front? I only have a positive run from my battery.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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I would say it ground itself through the amp. The remote wire isn't grounded at the remote turn on terminal else would ground out the remote turn on circuit of the HU and no amps would work.

Thats my point. Positive to negative... obviously thru a circuit. Now lets put it in another perspective, your car radio can turn on and off regardless if the remote wire is connected to the amp. An amp without a remote wire from the head unit will not turn on....

if you wire the positive and negative on the amp, the amp wont turn on but it still has power at the amp from the battery. In order for that amp to turn on, the signal from the remote sends power to the internal relay... relays it grounds itself out when power is sent to it... therefore making it a Positive to negative connection

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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WOW, such a long and (IMO pointless) debate on something so simple.

Anyways, the remote turn-on lead of your stereo is probably something like 300mA and so it's not likely to be enough to jump from one device to another and on to many more. Typically, if you are looking to power more than two amplifier's I'd strongly recommend a relay. Heck, even if one were to just wire up one amplifier a relay isn't a bad idea. If for some reason the amplifier goes, it could potentially short out the remote turn-on lead of the stereo, but the use of a relay would protect such from happening.

It's not pointless. Using a relay to turn on multiple components was a simple answer. That lead to an interesting discussion on a different (but related) topic. One I am enjoying being a part of. Far from pointless.

I meant the whole debate over the wiring being series of parallel for the remote turn-on, which is what this thread turned into pretty quickly. I didn't read past the first page before replying, but it seemed as though the debate went on. I just couldn't fathom how such an argument could be made that it's series. The remote turn-on is a 12V DC power supply, it can't ever be wired in series, alternating current is the only way "I" know of to be able to wire in series in car audio.

I went on to make my legitimate response to the thread directly after may comment on the debate, which perhaps I failed to specify was the whole ordeal over series or parallel wiring of a single DC 12V wire to multiple points.

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:nothingtoadd:

This thread has gone nutz ... No need for me to comment anymore.

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