MrSkippyJ Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Pretty sure the oscope has been around as long as car audio. Using 0db will be the safest... F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfkncar Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Set everything flat,RTA disabled,do not touch EQ untill everything is set. check your mid and tweeters sensitivity,set mid to -0db 1khz,set sub to -0db 40/60hz, here's the tricky part. You see your tweeters sensitivity? You are gonna have to tune those by -5db or possibly -10db 4/6/8khz. If you use a -0db track they will be stupid loud. Trust me,been there don't that many times. *got the mid and tweet level backwards lol sorry. But hope you see what I'm saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Still want to use 0db for the quietest. Not -5 or -10. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Now here's the kicker, the x'over on the tweeter channels on the 80prs only go down to 1.25khz. How will you set it with a 1khz tone, if that frequency is cut off? (I have an 80prs and run active, I know the answer. Just a knowledge check) SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfkncar Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Still want to use 0db for the quietest. Not -5 or -10. sorry had a brainfart. His tweeters will have to be softer then the mids regardless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 I'm sorry but i still set My comps by ear. i actually had to. i have the ct 60.4 and type r comps for my front stage and 6 kicker tweets for rear fill. i set with a dd1 @ 0db. it was so painfully loud i had no choice but to go and turn the gain wayyyyyy down. i ended up turning Down a Lil to much and had to bump it up a lil. granted the dd1 let me know where my danger zone was.(clipping) but my sub stage is set with it at -5 and have no issues. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 But you started with knowing where your equipments limits are. You can turn stuff down all day long by ear and never hurt anything. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Full pass through, no filters on anything. EQ flat. Set tweeters channels on -0db at 1khz set mids at -5db on 1khz. (All speakers unplugged) then turn down the volume on your headunit and set your filters using the headunit settings or a cc1. Then slowly roll up the volume on the headunit paying extra attention to the tweeters, when they start to get too loud.... Go touch the gain for them a little lower. Repeat until you get to the max undistorted volume where you set all your gains. Your mids will be getting full power. Your tweeters should be safe and sound good. Done deal My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martydmb Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Stang. I have 80prs also and I used the mid and set the highpass to all pass or straight line and set the amp using that rca. Then switched back to the high rca and kept settings same on amp. Is that how you did yours? 05 dodge magnum rt DEH-80PRS Rockford fosgate T600.4 st200 tweeters Sundown Neo Pro 6.5 v2's 2 Saz-3500v2- Toolmaker dual 1/0 inputs 2 Sundown ZV4 12" D1 1/0 Sky High Power wire OFC 3 XS D3100- Toolmaker battery terminals Mechman 320 Amp Alt Smd Voltmeter KnuKoncept 1/0 OFC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Why not use a 5kHz tone, or anything within your tweeter's bandwidth after crossovers are applied? What I've always done. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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