hdorre Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 There are very few people who arent biased as fuck in the car audio world. The one who ran this test is one of the few. This is one of the reasons why i always look forward to TF's tests. Not only is he NOT biased, but he's attentive.. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 There are very few people who arent biased as fuck in the car audio world. The one who ran this test is one of the few.exactly. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaylorFade Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 There are very few people who arent biased as fuck in the car audio world. The one who ran this test is one of the few. This is one of the reasons why i always look forward to TF's tests. Not only is he NOT biased, but he's attentive.. I'm writing up the test that preceded the death of the Taramps as we speak. I dunno how interested y'all will be in this one, but it's different. Sort of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 There are very few people who arent biased as fuck in the car audio world. The one who ran this test is one of the few. This is one of the reasons why i always look forward to TF's tests. Not only is he NOT biased, but he's attentive.. I'm writing up the test that preceded the death of the Taramps as we speak. I dunno how interested y'all will be in this one, but it's different. Sort of. Im in for anything, any info, any anything you can show. I trust.... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 There are very few people who arent biased as fuck in the car audio world. The one who ran this test is one of the few.exactly. This meme is hilarious Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 i cant believe the guy used the map price to justify the amp.. he said map is $1940 for a 20k that is more efficient smaller footprint yadda yadda yadda. then asked whats the map on the korean board 9k like saying it over priced.. i rather pay $2400 for a reliable 9k amp than to pay $1000 for a 20k that only goes up in flames You definitely interpreted me saying 9k is over priced. That's not what I said, now is it? Also, he did the testing with 1 ohm resistive, with no breaks in between, 3 times. I did not use the price to justify the amp either, geesh. I was only using it as an comparison. $1940 for what is shown, 13krms. OR, $2400 for the 9k that mind you, you have to wire down, and use 18v, to see comparable wattage. Apparently, not to you, but some of those yada yada yada is a difference maker when deciding what amplifer best suites your needs. you are justifying the amp for the price you said it was cheaper then a 9k just like youre doing now.. $1940 for 13k vs $2400 for 9k.. that 9k is still kicking and that taramps or should i say trashamps just turned to paper weight.. $1940 does not justify going up in smoke.. like i said i rather pay 3k for a solid amp than to pay half for an amp that will turn to paper weight.. it could do 100k and would still not be good price since it going up in flames by the way.. i dont pick my gear because of the name.. i run sundown, DC, Crescendo, Fosgate,Kicker and whatever amp that has a good deal for me to jump on my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Would be nice to see how it would have done on an inductive load at 1 ohm. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 in my books it should have done rated and not go poof at the ohm load its rated at.. if you really look at it its a 2ohm stable amp. it cant handle 1 ohm either way my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrie32 Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 TEST IS FLAWED, this is what happens when you don't follow direction. No wonder he keeps blowing them up. Now, T Series amplifiers (does not include the T500D) Ohm Stability capability- Same Recommendations as HD Amplifiers Do not wire Below the Nominal(Impedance, not resistance) ohm value the amplifier is rated for. For competition, this is fine for BURPS only. Sustained or repetitive burps are not suggested! Reason- These amplifiers are not overbuilt to withstand that kind of abuse hence the radical low price for high power. DC Voltage working range- Power Supply- 10.2v - 15.0v Protection Range- 10.5v - 15.0v) (That means physical range is 10.5 - 13.0v) Operating Working Range under 100% signal output- (this is maximum output until clipping and any % of distortion afterwords) 10.5v- 13.0v Reason- These amplifiers use what you could call a rail booster which ramps up the voltage internally to provide enormous amount of power and efficiency below 14.4v. This works wonders for people who cannot sustain alternator voltage. The only downside to that, in a sense, is if the user CAN sustain charging voltage to power the entire amplifier system under maximum load, then it will put too much added stress to the amplifier overtime and eventually damage it. There are only about 10,000 ways to lower voltage a few tenths even if charging is sustained! Remember, we are not talking about DC voltage above 13.0v at all times. ONLY when the signal is at maximum potential and especially clipping over 13.0v. More detailed illustration below in graph. Cyclic Vibrational Capabiity(mounting amp on box or wall)- Better, Average Reason- The weight of the amplifier is much heavier than any other amplifier they make(minus the High Voltage series). Between the 10.9K to the 20.2K, weight varies between ~22 - 32lbs per amp vs a maximum on the HD8k at 13.5lbs! The 10.9K - 20.2K use multiple transformers resisting the capability of a single larger one adding weight centered in one area. These amplifiers are more resistant to damages from cyclic resonances and vibrations but no amplifier on earth is completely resistant. Use good layout technique when deciding on where to mount electronics. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized %1%2. What does the impedance graph on the right actually mean? Same answer as HD Amplifiers Answer- Do not wire speaker setup to an amplifier where it's Nominal rated impedance is lower than the rating of the amplifier. IE- Dual 2ohm may typically be dual 1.4(1.4 being Resistance, not impedance) Dual 2ohm in this case is 1ohm nominal or also 0.7 DCR(Direct Current Resistance) The graph above indicates ACTUAL Impedance the amplifier sees during play! That means it's suggested to maintain above 1.4ohms actual Impedance(not resistance) for longterm output. Sometimes a or more frequencies can dip below 1.4 but this is fine because when wiring to a proper nominal load, Actual impedance below 1.4ohms will not be sustained or in the range of your average impedance curve. I hope this clears everything up with speculation, etc.. i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 okay.. other amps didnt blow by doing his way.. even the hifonics took it my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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