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Eric Stevens Starting a New Company (patent holder for ID Horns)


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Looks like some very nice equipment. Can't wait to get some demos.

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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Sold me at image dynamics. Better quality by 1000 than some of the brands like cres******* and Mm*** that I have come across in the last couple years.

2003 Tahoe

dc 7.5k

dc level 5 15's (3)

MMats 341's

xs power batts

lots of sky high cable

dual alts(came off the sky-high gmc and don't know who made them)

ipad in center console

vu-din in center console

all being ripped out and being sold

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ordered new diaphragms recently from him for my ID horns, dropped right in and fired right back up.

I know a vehicle whom will be getting some Oncore amps soon. Can't wait to hear it. It sounds great right now with Zed amps I wonder if they will get better or be the same.

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I own a pair of the original Ultras which is powered by my ZED amp. You can still order from him right now. He has teh 350$ set and the 700$ set. both offered in the mini and full size

165db with 237 DC Volts

6 15" SSA Evils

3 HV Taramps T60k @.33

18 XS Power D3400s

Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy

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  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

i have minis.... just need to start planning out sub stage in my 2016 mazda3 ...

Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear)

beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.

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Not to jack this thread, but man what a pain in the ass it is to mount these. I only mounted mine without the driver just to see what they look like. Man, a saw a video that said about 1 hour to mount. I spent about 3 hours to get them close to horizontal as I can get them. In the Bimmer the dash curves upwards on both sides. The driver's side is actually lower than the pass. side. Also the pass side offers more leg room than that of the driver's side. So the pass. side is actually forward from the bottom of the dash to be equal with the driver's side horn. Also the door panels and footwells are different depths so it made it hard take reference points for measurements.

Suggestions when you go to mount the minis... This is after I spent a few hours......

1. Cut off the bare minimum of the excess horn tab since they come fairly long to make them fit under the dash. You can always cut more if needed.

2. Bend the provided metal tabs 90 degrees in a vice. Leave a few holes on each side to mount the horn vertically. You'll have to mod it later.

3. Mount the metal tabs under the dash to wear you can secure them properly to the dash. The Bimmer dash had a small lip at the bottom to work with.

4. Once the tabs are mounted you will have to put the horns against the tabs with squeeze clamps. This will tell you how off your dash is. It's a mock up. Use

tape to let you know where to make the holes in the horn tab later.

5. If it's way off you cut the horn tabs on either side to center them more in whatever direction you want them to go. to the door or the center console.

6. Remove the mounting tabs and grind from hole to hole. The reason? To allow for vertical height alignment on either side of the horn.

7. Grind hole to hole on the other part of the tab so you can move the horn depth alignment- in or out.

8. Go back and mock it up again. Mark you hole(s) in the horn tab and drill.

9. Now it's all a matter of positioning your horns with in the available movement of the mounting tabs you made slots in.

Trust me. After 3 hours I figured that out it's easier to do it this way than to do what I did. I drilled the horn tabs, than mounted the bracket to the horn only to find out there was a piece of plastic causing the right side of the pass. horn to deflect downwards. I had to re drill the right side of the horn and remount the bracket again.

I'll draw a pic of what I am talking about.

-Frank

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