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Some pics of my liquid cooled neo 18s setup. (pg2)


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I'm about 75% through a water cooling system for my aura/tc 5100 18s

I've data logged temperature ranges for within the box and motor temps before and after heavy use. I'll have some solid numbers after testing the cooling system to how effective it is.

I've recorded motor temps BEFORE playing them at 125F+

-Drew

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uhoh_45 said:
dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
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this is sick.....

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What temps are you hoping to maintain?

What were your peak hot temps playing them?

Thats a good question and I haven't really sat down to crunch the numbers in detail yet.

On average the motors start +/-5*F from ambient temp. The big exception is when I found them at 125* after sitting all day in the sun in (I think) 95* ambient temp. On average the motors play +25* from ambient when I'm driving around alone and not "demo loud" or clipping at all. Since its been mostly in the low to mid 90s here I measure them at around 115* after a good ride.

The issue I feel like I'm having is that the woofers will heat up very quickly at "demo" outputs and when the cabin is measuring around 100, box around 108, and woofers starting around 105 I feel like they will heat up to around 115/120 and there is no cooling element to bring them back down. I want the woofers to play closer to box temp which is on average 8-10* above ambient temp and between demos I want to be able to leave the car idling and ACTIVELY cooling the motors down. I'm moving to Arizona in Sept and want to spend the next several months getting the kinks worked out and eventually throwing a heat exchanger on the amps to liquid cool them as well (eventually).

Its suffocating having no AC in heat like that and having the entire car and all the gear boiling hot- this is the first step towards actively controlling temps.

-Drew

*cabin/box temp measured with a mercury thermometer and the motors are measured inside the pole with an IR thermometer.

More Edit:

This process is complicated and risky due to the water. Normal ferrite motors are large enough to absorb, pull, and dissipate heat appropriately for its power level even when moderately overpowered. Its the large mass that allows it to work this way- my Neos have no cooling fins and I am giving them WAY over rated power. This process is only worth while because my limiting factor is how much heat my small ( each sub is 28lb total) motors can dissipate as I'm playing full tilt. In stock form they were rated for about 800wrms each. I currently have two DDM2bs (rated 2400w@14v@1ohm) and I'm starting @[email protected] strapped which is fine for the soft parts but heat becomes an issue fast.

hope that makes sense.

detail.gifI am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. detail.gif

uhoh_45 said:
dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
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To me 115-125°f doesn't seem like a temp I'd be worried about.

Still cool that you are doing this though.

What's the cooling system consist of?

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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I know im already way over my head by asking this and probably will just get ridiculed, but do you have any worry about the... i assume that's copper tubing..... affect on the magnetism of the motor, and possibly pulling some of the flux away from the gap when you apply AC since the copper is conductive? im not sure if im thinking correctly i just think about inductance rings and other additions to subs in which they (sub designers) add metal on top of the gap or on the bottom to help with rise and what not....

i had thought about types of cooling before, i just always wondered if going from extreme hot, directly to extreme cold, or cooling, on the motor, could it weaken or make the metal used for the top plate, bottom plate, or even basket more brittle and prone to breaking over time? Im not sure it would ever get that hot to shatter, but maybe after extreme demoing or something and a lot of use.

glad youre experimenting because its has and is going to answer a lot of questions that have popped up :lol::good:

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Broke_Audio_Addict-

It very well might be overkill which I'm OK with. I'd like the piece of mind knowing that they are not sitting in there baking away. The system consists of a 12v garden pump, a dirt bike radiator, 14ft of copper tubing, a waterproof pelican case for the reservoir, and about 26ft of 3/8" tubing.

Tboorn-

The copper is conductive but I'm not putting a charge through it. Copper in itself is not magnetic so it will not interfere with the magnets. I've been very careful to keep all ferrous metals (ex. stainless hose clamps) away from the motors. As far as temperatures, we're not talking drastic differences here. I would need much more energy to cause breaking over time. The water will be about ambient temp while the woofers will probably be closer to 120-130 in the summer full tilt. The cooler water will absorb excess heat from the motor but its not "cold". There's a difference between taking something hot and something cold and smashing them together and taking something hot and using that energy to moderately warm water that is traveling through the system.

Speaking of hot and cold, if I add cold to the water system I'll get condensation on the pipes which sounds like just an awful time for everybody.

Everything with a grain of salt here- I'm winging it just like everybody else. Science is about experimenting!

-Drew

detail.gifI am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. detail.gif

uhoh_45 said:
dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
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