DubNDodge Posted February 3, 2016 Report Posted February 3, 2016 You really only need one run to your primary battery from your alt. That wire is rated for 300A @20ft. It's rating goes up for shorter lengths. So if you have ~7ft going to your primary battery you'll be fine. I would do 2 runs back, not 3. Unless you plan on getting another alt down the road. You really only need 1 jumper, as I said before rating goes up with shorter lengths. So if you only have 1ft of cable, you'll be fine for a ton of current. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.
Allen Lancos Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Posted February 3, 2016 Ok so this will be my layout, already have all parts except the alt which i am still waiting on from singer. Alt is 370a - (2) 2/0 3ft runs to primary battery - from there (3) runs each fused at 300a on each end to rear bank - this will be rear primary battery - from rear primary 3 runs fused at 200a apiece to amplifer - (1) 2/0 jumper between 2 rear batteries " may go 2 to be safe" - 2 runs of ground to frame per battery. Hope this makes sence... if not i can try a different method to explain I would do 300a fuses personally otherwise you are limiting the capability of your wire. And how many batteries are you running in the rear? Would 300a fuses per run not be to risky putting me at a combined 900amps total with amp only rated at 650a recommended from Sundown? Id rather the fuses go before my components, unless im just not understanding this correctly. Im still learning here! Maybe this would be more helpful: Here is a list of parts i already have: (1) 370A Singer alt (purchased 3 weeks ago, but hasnt arrived yet) (1) Sundown NS1 6500W at 1 ohm (2) FI SP4 12's duel 1 voice coils will be wired down to a 1ohm load (currently in shipment) (1) Yellow top optima (front primary battery) (2) XS D3100 Batteries for rear of truck (150 ft) 2/0 EB-Flex welding cable (50) 1/0 Sky High ring terminals (1 pair) Shy High 6 lug battery terminals for front battery (3) Waterproof Sky High 1/0 anl fuse holders for under hood (6) 1/0 Sky High anl fuse holders, 3 for front of rear primary battery and 3 for amp runs (10) 200a anl fuses (1) 8'x14' aero port for 6cube net box 5.5 after port and sub displacement I think thats everything Vehicle is a single cab Dodge ram, batteries will be mounted in rear of truck. Amp may also be mounted in rear but if room allows it will be in cab! I'll do body filler all day every day, but this reinforced, fortified fucking kitty hair can kiss my balls.
Kyblack76 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Posted February 3, 2016 Didn't read any posts. But adding wire doesn't add amperage. It's not rocket science. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
Allen Lancos Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Posted February 3, 2016 Rocket science? Im just going off of info i was given in an earlier thread I made in the Amplifier section... Your amp has 3 power and ground inputs. Why don't you make 3 runs of 1/0 or 2/0? Fuse each at 200-250A and you're done. 3 runs fused at 200a per run would that not give you a 600a capacitance total being the runs are parallel to each other? I'll do body filler all day every day, but this reinforced, fortified fucking kitty hair can kiss my balls.
ChevyBoy95 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Posted February 3, 2016 Ok so this will be my layout, already have all parts except the alt which i am still waiting on from singer. Alt is 370a - (2) 2/0 3ft runs to primary battery - from there (3) runs each fused at 300a on each end to rear bank - this will be rear primary battery - from rear primary 3 runs fused at 200a apiece to amplifer - (1) 2/0 jumper between 2 rear batteries " may go 2 to be safe" - 2 runs of ground to frame per battery. Hope this makes sence... if not i can try a different method to explain I would do 300a fuses personally otherwise you are limiting the capability of your wire. And how many batteries are you running in the rear? Would 300a fuses per run not be to risky putting me at a combined 900amps total with amp only rated at 650a recommended from Sundown? Id rather the fuses go before my components, unless im just not understanding this correctly. Im still learning here! The amp only pulls what it needs. Fuses don't create power, they are just there to protect the wire from thermal limits and shorting. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
ChevyBoy95 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Posted February 3, 2016 Rocket science? Im just going off of info i was given in an earlier thread I made in the Amplifier section... Your amp has 3 power and ground inputs. Why don't you make 3 runs of 1/0 or 2/0? Fuse each at 200-250A and you're done. 3 runs fused at 200a per run would that not give you a 600a capacitance total being the runs are parallel to each other? No, fuses have nothing to do with capacitance. The Info CleanSierra gave you is fine, you are misinterpreting the info given though. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
Allen Lancos Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Posted February 3, 2016 Rocket science? Im just going off of info i was given in an earlier thread I made in the Amplifier section... Your amp has 3 power and ground inputs. Why don't you make 3 runs of 1/0 or 2/0? Fuse each at 200-250A and you're done. 3 runs fused at 200a per run would that not give you a 600a capacitance total being the runs are parallel to each other? No, fuses have nothing to do with capacitance. The Info CleanSierra gave you is fine, you are misinterpreting the info given though. Fair enough, like I said im still learning! Ill order some 250's or 300's then jsut to be on the safe side! I was just looking for maximum protection to protect the system. Had a buddy who installed a system years ago and somehow shorted and completely burned his SUV to the ground. Though I have no clue on the details of his wiring... I'll do body filler all day every day, but this reinforced, fortified fucking kitty hair can kiss my balls.
graham0599 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Posted February 3, 2016 It won't hurt to use 200a fuses, it won't hurt to use 300a fuses. The amp will only pull that 650a at absolute full output, which is unlikely due to rise, proper gain setting, and other similar things. 2 runs is ok, 3 runs is ok. If you have the wire for 3 runs, go for it. From alt to batt, one run should be enough. That wire can carry much more than 300a in that short of a distance. If you have extra though, then go for it. It can't hurt having too much, it'll just dissipate heat a little better. Between rear batts, one run is enough. For grounds, I'd do 3 runs from rear batts to the frame/bare metal. If you do 200a fuses, they may blow before the amp. If you do 300a, they'll blow when the wire exceeds it's limits.Fuses are typically used to prevent damage in the case of a wire being shorted. My 350z build- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174424-2008-350z-build/page-2?hl=%2B350z+%2Bbuild#entry2605678
Allen Lancos Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Posted February 3, 2016 It won't hurt to use 200a fuses, it won't hurt to use 300a fuses. The amp will only pull that 650a at absolute full output, which is unlikely due to rise, proper gain setting, and other similar things. 2 runs is ok, 3 runs is ok. If you have the wire for 3 runs, go for it. From alt to batt, one run should be enough. That wire can carry much more than 300a in that short of a distance. If you have extra though, then go for it. It can't hurt having too much, it'll just dissipate heat a little better. Between rear batts, one run is enough. For grounds, I'd do 3 runs from rear batts to the frame/bare metal. If you do 200a fuses, they may blow before the amp. If you do 300a, they'll blow when the wire exceeds it's limits.Fuses are typically used to prevent damage in the case of a wire being shorted. So what im gathering here is 200's on the main long runs will be fine due to the fact the alt's max output is 370 amps, theoretically they should never see more than that unless there is a short. But I need to up the fuses leading to amp just incase the amp needs a little more than 600 amps worth of power at full tilt. Am i reading this right? I'll do body filler all day every day, but this reinforced, fortified fucking kitty hair can kiss my balls.
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Each run from front to back needs to be fused at the front and the back. Fuses at front battery and fuses at the rear bank so in the event of an accident, the batteries will be disconnected from the shorted cables. These fuses only protect the wire. If you want to protect the amp, then fuse at the amp also. At some point you should consider running a ground run from the back batteries to the front as well. This is more needed on a unibody car than a full frame car. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)
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