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Two sizes of midbass/midrange drivers needed?


06RTCharger

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So you are automatically ignoring some of the best speakers on the market because they come with passive crossovers? I run a rock for T1 set of components active. Sounds great, except I have spent enough time tuning them yet.

No not at all, my point is im not going to pay for a "Comp SET" that includes a passive crossover that i DONT intend to use. Lol thats rediculous to me. Id just but the speakers individually if i wanted them.

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So you are automatically ignoring some of the best speakers on the market because they come with passive crossovers? I run a rock for T1 set of components active. Sounds great, except I have spent enough time tuning them yet.

So you are automatically ignoring some of the best speakers on the market because they come with passive crossovers? I run a rock for T1 set of components active. Sounds great, except I have spent enough time tuning them yet.

I wouldnt say components are some of the best speakers out there, thats laughable. Damn guys is it that hard to comprehend he doesnt want passive speakers or pay the extra fee for crossovers when buying components. When raw can be leaps and bounds better. Yes we know passives can be ran active.

Op you wont need multiple size speakers in your doors to be loud or mutliple speakers around the car to be loud. Eminence is a great company and i love the alphas, ran them for years. Beyma and 18sound are great companies. You need to decide what you really want, pa speakers or traditional car audio drivers. Supertweeters suck to me but to each their own. Check out some of these sites:

Madisoundspeakerstore.com

Usspeaker.com

Parts-express.com

Meniscusaudio.com

Also read up on drivers at zaphaudio.com

Thanks man, seems like my point isnt catching on with most lol, im not going passive.....so i have no interests in buying a passive crossover that COMES with comp sets lol. So since youve used eminence alphas, are they too loud? I dont want Public Address style speakers blasting in my ears, like as if to stand infront of the speaker systems at a concert. But i want my music to be loud when maxed out, and heard from far. Yeah i wanna show off a lil bit lol. And what? :P but i dont want the sound quality of the music to go to complete shti when i turn it up.

What about hybrid audio tech legatia's? The reviews seem outstanding, but they are a lil newer company, only tenyears. And the warranty is only 1 year unless they install it then its 3 years. Eminence offers a crazy 7 year warranty on all the products. Whats ur take man? Thanks

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You are seriously limiting yourself with not buying a comp set with a crossover, there are many people that buy sets and do not use the passive crossovers as they went active with the system.

Do yourself a huge favor and go out and listen to the plethora of brands out there and see what suits your needs, but the biggest difference you'll see is in the install, and to be quite honest an install can make a low cost set of speakers sound great and when swapping to a top tier set will be simply amazing.

Install and tuning go a long way to how well something sounds in a car.

EDIT: Hybrid Audio is the brand from the most well known name in car audio!

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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u want man mid bass and mid range?

u have to run active and get real speakers + external line level crossover. full range 10s or 12s should do it on 4k (sound stream, prv , taramp, full range mono blocks

speakers like prv, beyma, massive, dj speakers, some o2 stuff. everything else is average

i got 4 10 inch mr1000 prv on 3k taramp people turn around 2 blocks away

just because it turns heads doesn't mean it sounds good

might just be the high frequencies giving them a migraine.

i'm pretty sure reading that gave me a migraine...go active and use passive crossovers? Am I reading that right?

I love the fact everything he suggested, in his MAN voice, isnt even a mid bass driver. Pa for mid bass? ok, i guess what i think is mid bass is some others PA pipe dream. And what "loud" is to some, is a fucking head ache, ear bleed to me. :unknw:

Mid range, and mid bass, isnt even the same league, its not even the same fucking sport. (in my Jules voice from pulp fiction)

some of those speakers are flat down to 150 hz to 2k how munch lower u want them to go. in ny we do street battles line car and trucks up head to head. 1st round is just vocals and some of these truck are producing sound pressure from 10 feet away with just mids. not sure how it is down south but we dont fuck around with mids highs sq

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u want man mid bass and mid range?

u have to run active and get real speakers + external line level crossover. full range 10s or 12s should do it on 4k (sound stream, prv , taramp, full range mono blocks

speakers like prv, beyma, massive, dj speakers, some o2 stuff. everything else is average

i got 4 10 inch mr1000 prv on 3k taramp people turn around 2 blocks away

just because it turns heads doesn't mean it sounds good

might just be the high frequencies giving them a migraine.

i'm pretty sure reading that gave me a migraine...go active and use passive crossovers? Am I reading that right?

I love the fact everything he suggested, in his MAN voice, isnt even a mid bass driver. Pa for mid bass? ok, i guess what i think is mid bass is some others PA pipe dream. And what "loud" is to some, is a fucking head ache, ear bleed to me. :unknw:

Mid range, and mid bass, isnt even the same league, its not even the same fucking sport. (in my Jules voice from pulp fiction)

some of those speakers are flat down to 150 hz to 2k how munch lower u want them to go. in ny we do street battles line car and trucks up head to head. 1st round is just vocals and some of these truck are producing sound pressure from 10 feet away with just mids. not sure how it is down south but we dont fuck around with mids highs sq

this is an example of what we do up north

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u want man mid bass and mid range?

u have to run active and get real speakers + external line level crossover. full range 10s or 12s should do it on 4k (sound stream, prv , taramp, full range mono blocks

speakers like prv, beyma, massive, dj speakers, some o2 stuff. everything else is average

i got 4 10 inch mr1000 prv on 3k taramp people turn around 2 blocks away

just because it turns heads doesn't mean it sounds good

might just be the high frequencies giving them a migraine.

i'm pretty sure reading that gave me a migraine...go active and use passive crossovers? Am I reading that right?

I love the fact everything he suggested, in his MAN voice, isnt even a mid bass driver. Pa for mid bass? ok, i guess what i think is mid bass is some others PA pipe dream. And what "loud" is to some, is a fucking head ache, ear bleed to me. :unknw:

Mid range, and mid bass, isnt even the same league, its not even the same fucking sport. (in my Jules voice from pulp fiction)

some of those speakers are flat down to 150 hz to 2k how munch lower u want them to go. in ny we do street battles line car and trucks up head to head. 1st round is just vocals and some of these truck are producing sound pressure from 10 feet away with just mids. not sure how it is down south but we dont fuck around with mids highs sq

this is an example of what we do up north

https://youtu.be/a8vYPdJpuWQ

link doesn't work....

but I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it's just a fuckery fest of just noise. loud and impressive? yes. sounds like shit in the vehicle, not worth daily driving, gives a headache after 20 minutes... yes...

Take it to brazil or something. Everywhere else in the states wants a balanced setup. Except Texas. They just want to reproduce whale calls.

On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said:

Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole.

 

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Hertz is good too. I'm not saying to ignore anything though. I just think that ignoring component sets because they have a passive crossover limits possibilities. He wants to run active, he can do hat wether he buys individually or as a component set.

True i "could" waste money like that. OR... I could just buy the same speakers individually and not waste money on a passive crossover i wont use. Right?

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You are seriously limiting yourself with not buying a comp set with a crossover, there are many people that buy sets and do not use the passive crossovers as they went active with the system.

Do yourself a huge favor and go out and listen to the plethora of brands out there and see what suits your needs, but the biggest difference you'll see is in the install, and to be quite honest an install can make a low cost set of speakers sound great and when swapping to a top tier set will be simply amazing.

Install and tuning go a long way to how well something sounds in a car.

EDIT: Hybrid Audio is the brand from the most well known name in car audio!

yah im leaning toward hybrid, have u ran them personally? If so can u tell me a lil bout ur setup? Which speakers, amps? If i got those id want a high quality amp for clean, true signals, recommend any amps or amp brands?

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Hertz is good too. I'm not saying to ignore anything though. I just think that ignoring component sets because they have a passive crossover limits possibilities. He wants to run active, he can do hat wether he buys individually or as a component set.

True i "could" waste money like that. OR... I could just buy the same speakers individually and not waste money on a passive crossover i wont use. Right?

If you can buy the same drives individually then yes that is completely true. I'm not sure you can buy them individually in all cases though. Sometimes getting them as a component set is the only way to get them. And I'm trying to say buying raw drivers that are not part of a component set is a bad thing, I'm just saying don't rule stuff out just because it comes with a passive crossover and that is the only way to get them. If you found a component set you just loved and the only way to buy them was as a set, would you just simply not buy them and settle for something you were less happy with just so you can run active?

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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