White Lightning Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 If you are building a true Sound Quality system, the sub stage should be the very last thing on your mind. Your primary focus should be Stage and Image. Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omnibus Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 I consider sound quality to be a very low group delay, accurate reproduction of a musical note and some would say sound stage although having all the music in front of me, to me personally, doesn't do anything special for me so long as I can perceive the stereo left and right. SPL is just loud notes imo without regard to accuracy but for the sake of a range of frequencies to being loud. Most here probably want both, I just want it to blend well with the music and emphasize the lowest frequencies but more than anything I like punch, I like that short, tight burst of punchiness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Even in 5.1, you still need a great stage and image to achieve center. Even with a center channel. Back on topic ... If you build a Sound Quality setup correctly, in most cases a sub stage it technically not needed. Worst case scenario being a small sub Installed within the dash to blend with the front stage application. Rear installed sub drivers can have a tendency to draw your vehicle stage back if not tuned correctly and blended accordingly. Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krakin Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 To figure out the best sub to use if one at all, Randal correct me if I'm wrong, but I would first try and figure out the general acoustics of your vehicle. That is if you don't plan on acoustic treatments. If you end up having a large amplitude in low end compared to your other range you might not need much. However, if it's the other way you might need to look at some thing different. This biggest thing I would suggest is just finding a way to get an objective measurement. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 If so, what separates a SQ subwoofer from an SPL subwoofer? Or is it more about the enclosure/box/vehicle that defines it as a SQ sub-bass setup? Im not looking to buy a sub anytime soon, so please dont ask for my specific applications in-order to answer my questions. Just your general ideas and thoughts on the subject is what im asking for. Lastly, name a couple subwoofer models you consider to be high quality in SQ setups.Spl sub drivers have very stiff suspension setups. Meaning the driver moves with massive force to move air.SQ drivers have a "delicate sound of thunder" appeal to them with smooth flowing cones to reproduce the most delicate note and with strong enough motors to give excellent definition to the notes. You can not hurt a spl drivers trying to use them for sound quality but you can destroy sound quality drivers using them for spl. Simply put, this is about all the info that I could give without knowing application and intended use. Good luck with your search. Hope this helps. Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted September 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 If you are building a true Sound Quality system, the sub stage should be the very last thing on your mind. Your primary focus should be Stage and Image. Exactly why i said im not planning on buying one any time soon, at all. I just want to hear a few opinions on the issue to get some ideas before hand. Im still waiting for my HO alternator. Been almost a month. And about to order everything i need from second skin tomarrow. Then some HATs for front stage. Leaning toward mosconi amps Zero3 and AS 200.4. So after ALL that is set i will make a decision on a sub. I just wanted to get ideas ahead of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilthx Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 SQ? Simple concept... Keep the source as close to analog as you can. (CD recorded (AAD) Analog - Analog - Digital) Head unit with 24bit D/A converter(s) Head unit with no internal amplifier and shielded chassis Quality amplifiers for ALL drivers Quality oversized silk, silk like or textile tweeters Quality mid-bass speakers in the 8" range Quality mid-range speakers in the 5 1/4" - 8" range Quality sub-woofer with fast transient response in the 8" - 10" range A quality and well engineered TL (transmission line) sub-woofer enclosure (if done correctly, you should not know what direction the sub frequencies are coming from and it should reinforce the mid-bass speakers) ACTIVE CROSSOVER Acoustic deadening Ideally all speakers including subs in front of the listener (not always possible in a vehicle) A vehicle that has been quality engineered (Mercedes, BMW... higher end Japanese vehicles or any vehicle that is fairly silent when the doors are closed and windows are up) A 1992 Camaro with saggy doors is not ideal because saggy doors don't seal properly. Sound isolation is key. Proper EQ settings Quality interconectors Proper sized power, ground and speaker wires. Proper chassis ground(s) Correct power delivery. Find out how many amps your vehicle requires with all accessories being used (A/C, Lights, Wipers Ect...) then find out what the amplifiers require and add the totals together. Get an alternator to support that number of required amperage Quality battery(s) I think that about does it... anyone want to add anything or delve deeper? Kenwood Excelon KDC-X998 JBL GTO608C Components JBL GTO628 Coaxials JBL P1224 12" dual 4ohm Subwoofers Alpine MRV-F545 - Alpine MRX M100 Hand Built by Me 5.9cu.ft. slot ported enclosure tuned to 27hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 SQ? Simple concept... Keep the source as close to analog as you can. (CD recorded (AAD) Analog - Analog - Digital) Head unit with 24bit D/A converter(s) Head unit with no internal amplifier and shielded chassis Quality amplifiers for ALL drivers Quality oversized silk, silk like or textile tweeters Quality mid-bass speakers in the 8" range Quality mid-range speakers in the 5 1/4" - 8" range Quality sub-woofer with fast transient response in the 8" - 10" range A quality and well engineered TL (transmission line) sub-woofer enclosure (if done correctly, you should not know what direction the sub frequencies are coming from and it should reinforce the mid-bass speakers) ACTIVE CROSSOVER Acoustic deadening Ideally all speakers including subs in front of the listener (not always possible in a vehicle) A vehicle that has been quality engineered (Mercedes, BMW... higher end Japanese vehicles or any vehicle that is fairly silent when the doors are closed and windows are up) A 1992 Camaro with saggy doors is not ideal because saggy doors don't seal properly. Sound isolation is key. Proper EQ settings Quality interconectors Proper sized power, ground and speaker wires. Proper chassis ground(s) Correct power delivery. Find out how many amps your vehicle requires with all accessories being used (A/C, Lights, Wipers Ect...) then find out what the amplifiers require and add the totals together. Get an alternator to support that number of required amperage Quality battery(s) I think that about does it... anyone want to add anything or delve deeper? Lmfao. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 SQ? Simple concept... Keep the source as close to analog as you can. (CD recorded (AAD) Analog - Analog - Digital) Head unit with 24bit D/A converter(s) Head unit with no internal amplifier and shielded chassis Quality amplifiers for ALL drivers Quality oversized silk, silk like or textile tweeters Quality mid-bass speakers in the 8" range Quality mid-range speakers in the 5 1/4" - 8" range Quality sub-woofer with fast transient response in the 8" - 10" range A quality and well engineered TL (transmission line) sub-woofer enclosure (if done correctly, you should not know what direction the sub frequencies are coming from and it should reinforce the mid-bass speakers) ACTIVE CROSSOVER Acoustic deadening Ideally all speakers including subs in front of the listener (not always possible in a vehicle) A vehicle that has been quality engineered (Mercedes, BMW... higher end Japanese vehicles or any vehicle that is fairly silent when the doors are closed and windows are up) A 1992 Camaro with saggy doors is not ideal because saggy doors don't seal properly. Sound isolation is key. Proper EQ settings Quality interconectors Proper sized power, ground and speaker wires. Proper chassis ground(s) Correct power delivery. Find out how many amps your vehicle requires with all accessories being used (A/C, Lights, Wipers Ect...) then find out what the amplifiers require and add the totals together. Get an alternator to support that number of required amperage Quality battery(s) I think that about does it... anyone want to add anything or delve deeper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilthx Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 These are good and should have no issues with being a SQ sub. Audison AV10 Pioneer Carozzeria JL Audio 10w6 Morel Ultimo 10 Kenwood Excelon KDC-X998 JBL GTO608C Components JBL GTO628 Coaxials JBL P1224 12" dual 4ohm Subwoofers Alpine MRV-F545 - Alpine MRX M100 Hand Built by Me 5.9cu.ft. slot ported enclosure tuned to 27hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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