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bleedingblue

Pick what subs I should run

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In my 2011 crew cab silverado. Will be an under the rear seat box. Most all prefab boxes I have seen only has 2cu ft of space. My listening habits are mostly rap and I like some boom and a bit of a bass head.

I was going to go with 4-8's in a ported box but do not think it would be the right enclosure for 4-SA8's

http://www.soundoffaudio.com/ported-quad-8-for-2007-2013-chevy-silverado-crew/

The problem is that the tuned hertz is 38. I'm really wanting something to play lower. I used to run nothing but sealed subs back in the late 80's and 90's and then had a bandpass with 2-15" kickers in my daily driver for about 12 years. I haven't been in the game for several years and all these new brands is making my head spin. More or less the best reviews I have found is the sundown line.

Here is a site where he has several boxes for sale.

http://www.soundoffaudio.com/2007-2013-silverado-crew-cab/

I could do a box for 4-10's in a sealed enclosure If I raise my rear seat up on spacers around 3". It seems with the ported boxes they run too big and with the sealed I could run in a small space and more subs. SA10's require .5 cuft per sub sealed.

Years ago had 2 crunch 15's in a ported box an installer built. After going through 6 subs in a couple of days he plugged the port holes up and no more blown subs. I don't want blown subs because the sub is going into free air because I like low bass.

As of right now I have nothing bought and was told their is going to be some nice buys on black friday. I would like to get everything planned out before I start spending money.

Need everything from a double din head unit to wiring. Prob run components up front and some coaxials in the rear doors. Should I run a 6 channel amp on those? I'd say I would at least need a 100 watts going to each mid/high. Prob run a SAE2000 on the subs if I go with 4-8's. Of course I could always go cheap and get one of those Cab1600.1

Their are not many shops that I know of around these parts that do car stereo's. Some in St. Louis, Nashville or Memphis but they are several hours away.

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take measurements of the space that you want your enclosure and amps to go in. build it all yourself, and enjoy it more than you will if you buy prefab enclosures.

The measurement of your available enclosure space will help forum members figure out what you can fit in the space you have for the goals that you want.

if that ported enclosure that kept blowing subs because you played too low, then its because it was tuned too high for the music you listened too. being ported doesn't mean it can't play low, and outperform a sealed enclosure,

why would you "need at least a 100 watts going to each mid/high"? from your post, you're only looking at a 2kW sub stage at best, which you definitely don't need 100w per a mid and high for.

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Most of the deals we want are actually going to be on Cyber Monday. Some sites have decent stuff on Black Friday, but the ones following that week are just as good.

I would suggest picking a brand you want to go with and go from there... If your going with Sundown, I'd suggest just getting a Sundown SCV-2000 when it's on sale. Otherwise, I'd keep a lookout for an Ampere Audio 2K, DC Audio 2K, or a Twisted Sounds 1.8K. As for subs, I'd also check into the Fi X series.

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Either do a pair of subs or a single and call it a day, why make it harder on yourself if you do not have to, and you'll be spending as much if not more on 4 subs than if you were to get 2 or 1. Getting loud is relative to your perception unless you plan on competing and going for numbers, you can get a quality 1000w to 1500w sub $300 or less and a pair for around $400, FI has the Alpha 12" for $150 each which is a steal at that price for a 600w sub.

More is not always better.


01 Ford focus ZX3

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image_zpspinhnnkk.jpegD925C268-FE43-43C4-A9DA-EF82A4EB7317_zpsimage_zpshbtden4b.jpegIMG_1235_zps4zl3jfy0.jpg. Here's a few pic's of my setup and box . Running 3 SA-10's in 3 chambers about .6 each because of displacement . I'm very impressed with the sound but put some power to it those subs can handle a lot . It is in a F-150 though and I think GM's have a hump witch make things tricky. U are gonna have to build a box that prefab shit won't cut it Edited by Ron36
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2 Sundown SD-10's D4 ohm Sealed box

Skar Audio RP1200.1

Mids all Alpine type R 's 1 set of 6.5 components and 1 set of 6x8's 

2 Rockford PBR's 300x2

1 Kinetic battery  under rear seat , Big 3

Ford F150 2018 Crewcab                                                                                                                               

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56" wide

Front 8" tall

Back 5" tall

Hump 1" tall x 12" wide in the middle

Depth would be 16"

Those are stock specs i could fab some spacers to add more height. Most guys put the subs down firing because of the hump. I would have to learn how to fiberglass around the hump to maxumize space.

I was thinking by how much work it would be to make a box it would be easier and probably cheaper to just buy a prefab. I am sure it would not be more rewarding. I have not built a speaker box in almost 20 years.

Do those 10's go low? I still have a phoenix gold bass cube from back in the day i could run and crank it up on low bass..

As far as my mids go i have a set of 6.5 factory cut outs in the doors, some tweeter pods on the pillars and in tbe back doors i have another 6.5 cutout.

Years ago i had a similiar set up but i had 6x8 coaxials in the rear deck instead of the doors in the car i had. Had a 4 channel opti drive amp on them 4x 100. Couldnt hear the mids and highs too good at all when i decided to crank up those 2 15's in the bandpass. If my figuring is right the rear speakers got 100 watts each and the components got 50 each since they were sharing power from the crossover.

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take measurements of the space that you want your enclosure and amps to go in. build it all yourself, and enjoy it more than you will if you buy prefab enclosures.

The measurement of your available enclosure space will help forum members figure out what you can fit in the space you have for the goals that you want.

if that ported enclosure that kept blowing subs because you played too low, then its because it was tuned too high for the music you listened too. being ported doesn't mean it can't play low, and outperform a sealed enclosure,

why would you "need at least a 100 watts going to each mid/high"? from your post, you're only looking at a 2kW sub stage at best, which you definitely don't need 100w per a mid and high for.

Used a 4 channel opti drive amp rated 100x4 going to 2-6.5" and a set of tweeters up front and a set of coaxial 6.x8's in the rear. The subs were 2-15" kicker cvr's in a bandpass being driven by around 1200 watts. I couldn't hear the mids and highs hardly at all if I cranked down on it. The rears were run off the rear 2 channels of the 4 channel amp. The front 4 speakers were run off the front 2 channels. They had their own crossover mounted where a kick panel would be.

What I am saying about the box is that typically you need a pretty good size box to hit lows in a ported box? Those 15's in a bandpass was a big box. The ported subs from 25 years ago where in a box that was 3.5 cuft each. Friends who had some 15's which hit low took up the whole trunk of their cutlass. They generally were some series 1 punch 15's being driven by a punch 150.

My brother had 4-12" JBL GTI subs that handled a 1000 watts rms from the early 90's. He had a opti drive amp on them and the brute force on his mids and highs. Those subs hit extremely low but the box took up every bit of space in the thunderbird supercoup that he had.

Had a 12" JBL GTI with a linear power 5002 bridged mono on it. Did not hit very low in the ported box but could thump. Took up around 3 cu ft of space.

I've never heard a "loud system" before like you see in the videos. Loudest I heard was a system my friend did as he had his own store back then. Had 4-15" kickers in a diamond with the ports coming out right close to your head powered by a PPI pro mos 2300. Had to replace windshield a few times and his door seals would blow out if you had the windows up. It just had around 1200 watts though nothing like the 30,000 watts I read about. I have sat in trucks that had 12-12's and never was impressed at all, even though they claimed 156 db.

I want it to hit and don't really care about having 20,000 watts. I dont' really understand why these systems today need that many watts. If I had trouble breathing on 1200 watts I should meet my maker on 30,000.

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I'd say go with the SA-10's over 8's I'm running about 3k to my 3 10's in sealed and since u haven't been around awhile these sundown subs slam compared to old shit my visors rattle about 2inches , 8's can't get low , not that 10's can but way better then 8's I was in the same spot and were with 3 10's sealed because 2 10's ported wouldn't fit and I have more room then u , so I went with an extra sub to compensate and was very happy. All those prefab boxes aren't gonna work with a good quality sub it's just to hard to get all the specs right and that's where all your sound comes from your gonna have to build or have a box built for these new subs . U also need power to run all those subs not just an amp I have 6 batteries and a 250amp alt .

Edited by Ron36

2 Sundown SD-10's D4 ohm Sealed box

Skar Audio RP1200.1

Mids all Alpine type R 's 1 set of 6.5 components and 1 set of 6x8's 

2 Rockford PBR's 300x2

1 Kinetic battery  under rear seat , Big 3

Ford F150 2018 Crewcab                                                                                                                               

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8s get low just fine.


 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

All Rockford Fosgate

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -TMS65

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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