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darkie14

Bad turn OFF pop with 3Sixty.3

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I have a 2013 Ford Escape with the factory 9 speaker SYNC system (not Sony). I installed a RF P2 15" sub along with a Precision Power A404 (old school Art Series amp) and a RF Power 300 (old school) and a RF 3Sixty.3 processor. I used the 3Sixty high level inputs for signal and amp turn on. Everything was fine until the 3Sixty bricked out. I replaced the 3Sixty with an Audio Control LCQ-1. I had zero problems. I sent the 3Sixty back to Rockford (out of warranty) and paid the flat fee for repair. I got a 3Sixty back and reinstalled it. Now I have a serious turn OFF pop. The late model Fords have no 12 volt SWITCHED output that I can find. Ford uses a CANBUS system. The power stays on the processor and amps after you exit the car. The exterior and interior lights stay on after the key is removed. When the interior lights go off there is a loud POP then the power goes off. Then about a minute later the headlights will shut off but when they do the processor comes back on and turns the amps on and then they POP again and shut off. I didn't have this problem with the first 3Sixty or the AC LCQ-1. Did they send me back a bad processor? I tried the turn off delay and that didn't help. There is no audible turn ON noise. Extremely frustrating.

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You have to go into th remote settings and set the turn off delay to 8sec. My Ford does the exact same thing. That will fix it. 

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On 5/28/2017 at 6:08 PM, darkie14 said:

There is no 8 sec. for turn off. There is only 1, 2 ,4. You can set the turn ON up to 8 sec but not the off.

My bad. I knew there was an 8 sec option. Couldn't remember which one is was on. Set the turn off delay to 4sec if you haven't already. 

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Tried that. No change. The problem is that the cars power stays on the processor and amps after you exit the car. The exterior and interior lights stay on after the key is removed. When the interior lights go off there is a loud POP then the power goes off. Then about a minute later the headlights will shut off but when they do the processor comes back on and turns the amps on and then they POP again and shut off.

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Are you using a +12v for turn on/off or using the input sensing turn on/off?

 

and what are you using for your amps?

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I am using input input sensing. I did find a 12 volt switched outlet in the rear fuse box but it had no affect on the pop. It still stays hot until the lights go out. The radio shuts off when you open the door but it also comes on and shows the Ford splash screen if you open any door after all of the power is off. I need to find a way to kill the power until the car is put into accessory or started. The pop is so loud I am afraid its going to damage the speakers. I tried hooking up my LCQ-1 back up and using it to power up the 3Sixty but it did the same thing. If I unhook the 3Sixty and hook up the LCQ-1 there is no pop. I think my refurbished 3Sixty is bad. I am using a Precision Power Art Series A404.2 for the highs.

Edited by darkie14

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Or find a keyed off source. There has to be one. Has to be.. get meter, and find one 

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