Jump to content

NEED IDEAS- Add Volume Control to my Tweeters


Dragonware

Recommended Posts

I have a pair of Soundstream  SSt05s right on my door that kill my ear drums as they are really loud.

How can I add some sort of gain control to them without affecting the volume of the door speakers ?

 

Currently my doors 6.5 & 8 inch eminence  is running off front ch of the audio control line driver. to a dedicated 2ch amp.

This Output signal is split however and second feeds into front ch of a Massive audio NX4 of which the front ch feeds into a DIY crossover then to the tweeters. 

Doors and Tweets are essentially on the same front ch out from the head unit / line driver so fading to the read affects them both.

I have already thought about using an RCA universal volume knob but all my amps are in the trunk so being able to adjust would be tricky without running additional RCAs  back into the cabin.

If i split the rear ch with the tweeters instead would I loose any musical notes how is music produced the front and rear sometimes carry different sounds and also left/right ?

 

My Build log :

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170934-dragonmobile-re-audio-2300rms-stealth-build-08-focus/

Current System

2020 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew

Audio Control Epicenter

Audio Control LC7i

Taramp PRO 2.6 DSP

Taramp DS4x800 - Highs

Taramp HD3000.1  Mids

Taramp MD5000.1 Bass

8 x DS18 6.5 Pro x6m - mids 

2 x Soundsteam SST-05 Bullet Tweeter

2 x DS18 TW220 Super Tweeters

4 X SkarAudio EVL-8  BASS

Big 3 

Yellow Top

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah RCA level control would be a quick, easy way to accomplish what you're doing.  Running RCAs shouldnt take very long, huh?

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

IG @walledsonic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or if you really don't want to run RCAs you could place a resistor before your tweeter crossover. Or barring that you could theoretically build a small, high frequency transformer. Though it would be a bit of a pain in the ass by hand building something to run in the kHz range. And you'd still run into issues with variance in output across a frequency range because inductance and resonance. Blablabla just run RCAs. You'll spend more effort trying to find a workaround than just fishing a pair under the carpet 

Edit: Did some poking. There are audio transformers 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depending on power couldn't you just use a univeral RCA level controller for just tweeters but speaker level? 

if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, s5300 said:

Feel free to call me a dumbass, but can't he just run a pot on the voltage going to the speakers? Probably a few ways to make it safer like a small cap bank or something incase of spikes... but yeah.. 

He'd need to take into account thermals and invest in a pair of rheostats that can handle power. And it would need to be done before the tweeter's crossover. A change in resistance post-crossover would affect the crossover frequency.

Adding a capacitor would act as a low pass filter. Low pass cap + high pass x-over = no pass lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really need to read up on speakers more. Truly, I only know about the workings of subs. 

I've been taking Bio Mechanics and Russian outside of my Mechanical Engineering courses, but for Junior/Seniors, there's an EE elective that I can also take that is literally only about speakers and their enclosures. Like, I know there's an infinite amount of online resources, but I already stretch myself way too thin researching/learning about machining and other shit on top of all of my medical issues. Looking forward to taking that class so I have the motivation to learn and an easy GPA pad. 

Speakers cool as fuck tho.

 

Kinda high btw, sorry. Got some of the dankest muscle relaxers they give out. :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, s5300 said:

I really need to read up on speakers more. Truly, I only know about the workings of subs. 

I've been taking Bio Mechanics and Russian outside of my Mechanical Engineering courses, but for Junior/Seniors, there's an EE elective that I can also take that is literally only about speakers and their enclosures. Like, I know there's an infinite amount of online resources, but I already stretch myself way too thin researching/learning about machining and other shit on top of all of my medical issues. Looking forward to taking that class so I have the motivation to learn and an easy GPA pad. 

Speakers cool as fuck tho.

 

Kinda high btw, sorry. Got some of the dankest muscle relaxers they give out. :)

 

Flexoril for real?

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

IG @walledsonic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why not just use front channel of your radio for tweets and rear channel for your doors? then you can add a level control like you would for subs. No difference in front and rear audio signal for that head unit (and for just about all head units.)

or just turn the gain down for your tweets.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said:

Why not just use front channel of your radio for tweets and rear channel for your doors? then you can add a level control like you would for subs. No difference in front and rear audio signal for that head unit (and for just about all head units.)

or just turn the gain down for your tweets.

This is where I was going with this if I move the tweets to the reach ch. I could use the fader i could care less about the rear door speakers they are not heard any way. I was worried that the signal would be less or it would have notes missing on the reach ch.

My Build log :

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170934-dragonmobile-re-audio-2300rms-stealth-build-08-focus/

Current System

2020 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew

Audio Control Epicenter

Audio Control LC7i

Taramp PRO 2.6 DSP

Taramp DS4x800 - Highs

Taramp HD3000.1  Mids

Taramp MD5000.1 Bass

8 x DS18 6.5 Pro x6m - mids 

2 x Soundsteam SST-05 Bullet Tweeter

2 x DS18 TW220 Super Tweeters

4 X SkarAudio EVL-8  BASS

Big 3 

Yellow Top

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 270 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...