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10W on the back, 100W on the manual?


06RTCharger

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Noticed that on the back of the L2SE its marked "4ohm 10W" on the back of the speaker. On the online manual(doesnt come with a manual or any power info on the box) it says 15W continuous with no crossover, 30W peak with no crossover, 100W Pmax with recommended minimum crossover. What do ya'll think is a good power to feed these to get best performance and longevity?

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The 15/30 watt continuous/peak with no crossover would be a very low wattage rating to prevent harm to the speaker being played with no crossover which would let all frequencies through the speaker.

So I bet at low power applications this speaker is very sound quality oriented and can play a very wide range of frequencies relatively flat.


As for the 10 watts that is on the speaker, Im going to assume that it is either A- a very conservative rating, or B- the speaker maybe a older/newer model that is slightly different than the specs published online.

That being said crossing the speaker over at their recommended frequency would remove a lot of the lower frequencies that can damage said speaker, so with a PMAX of 100 watts I would say 45-60 watts rms when you filter out everything below 315hz. Which means if you crossed it over at say 600hz it would probably handle 75-85 watts rms, but your losing out on frequency range, and Im sure you didnt buy such nice speakers to focus on making them loud.

 

 

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Then thats what ill do, thanks man. Ill cross them at 500-600 and the L6SE in the doors can pic it up from there. 

Yah not tryna be screaming loud at all, but i do want to get the most out of the money spent so ill do that. Raise the xover point to decrease chances of damage. Headunit and amp will be set with a DD1+ and crossovers will be handled on my 80PRS. Probably try to get me an AMM-1 soon so i can know exactly how much power is going to them.

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I picked up a small Linear Power amp, the 4235IQ. I actually got it from Ray himself and paid for him to do the power Mods/upgrades and repaint it. So instead of bridging the four channels into two channels, i think ill just run it off single channels and see how it goes. If i feel it'll take more then ill bridge it. If i dont bridge it, i could try getting some "rear fill". 

The white amp is the Linear Power 4235iq and the black amp is for the L6SE in the doors. That black amp is a Linear Power 2.2HV

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Have you contacted HAT about your speaker rating question?

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

IG @walledsonic

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2 minutes ago, WalledSonic said:

Have you contacted HAT about your speaker rating question?

No, what audiofanaticz said made sense. I kinda figured it was a "safe" label but couldnt see why such a big gap 10w vs 100w. But then i noticed my L6SE speakers have a similar scenario. 150w on the back but 225W max on the spec sheet.D3AC5B80-56CE-4107-8F0B-0AFDBD0F612D.thumb.png.305f28f61bde15eb057ae98590ab4dd7.png5B286A0B-40C1-4DBD-BB0A-5DD7918B8721.thumb.png.1a3901157106a7f79ded40bf8295b6f3.png

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You have some really nice equipment man! Should sound clean AF when you get it installed and tuned right.

Now quit posting and get that shit in! lol

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