06RTCharger Posted June 19, 2018 Report Posted June 19, 2018 When installing rivet nuts into the doors sheetmetal with a rivet gun/tool, is there some extra things ya'll do to make sure the rivet doesnt start spinning in place when torquing down a bolt/screw. For example some kind of loc-tite or JBweld type of thing? Some of my rivets end up coming loose and spinning in place when i try to torque down on it. What have you guys used that works well for "overkill" on a rivetnut. Clue to whats coming to the Chargers build log tonight. Shit was expensive for just one sheet. Couldve got 3 sheets of different thicknesses for the same price, but shipping on those three was more then the three sheets lol smh. 400 for plastic, 500 for shipping. Instead i opted to pay 400 locally for one sheet and pick it up myself. Not sure whats the better deal just know i was fkd either way lol. Went for the quicker one. Starting on sealing the doors for the 8s, so i can see what they really sound like
Markous Posted June 19, 2018 Report Posted June 19, 2018 I would think if the proper sized hole is drilled and the nut is installed correctly there should be no need for to add anything to keep the fastener in place. Maybe a poor quality nut and or installation tool or even user error (no offense) might be the cause. As for a solution to keep them from spinning, maybe some of that thick CA glue you can get from mobile solutions used on the backside of the metal panel and outside of the nut might work? Is that plastic UHMW? Why not just go with some PVC or something like that? '07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said: of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger. only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers
Skullz Posted June 19, 2018 Report Posted June 19, 2018 Aluminum, steel, or stainless steel rivnuts? I would personally use stainless steel rivnuts exposed to places where water will be present. You might not be compressing the nut enough to get a good seal to the metal. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2
WalledSonic Posted June 19, 2018 Report Posted June 19, 2018 Did you try putting the press tool back on the rivnut and re-pressing it? Ive done that before. Do your rivnuts have serrations on the side that touches the metal? Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic
06RTCharger Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Posted June 19, 2018 16 hours ago, Markous said: I would think if the proper sized hole is drilled and the nut is installed correctly there should be no need for to add anything to keep the fastener in place. Maybe a poor quality nut and or installation tool or even user error (no offense) might be the cause. As for a solution to keep them from spinning, maybe some of that thick CA glue you can get from mobile solutions used on the backside of the metal panel and outside of the nut might work? Is that plastic UHMW? Why not just go with some PVC or something like that? Not sure whats causing the spinning, maybe it was just slightly too big of a drilled hole. The tool i got should be legit, its not a "harbor freight". Would CA glue work on metal to metal??? I have a set of different mobile solutions CA glues, the thin, thick and gel with activator. Is HDPE high-density polyethelene its made for marine purposes mostly. I go with this or abs to avoid the extra toxicity of using other cheap plastic like pvc and stuff. All the butly smells bad enough lol and its very rigid. And cuts well.
06RTCharger Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Posted June 19, 2018 14 hours ago, Skullz said: Aluminum, steel, or stainless steel rivnuts? I would personally use stainless steel rivnuts exposed to places where water will be present. You might not be compressing the nut enough to get a good seal to the metal. I gotta check what it is. Isnt aluminum less corrosive?
06RTCharger Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Posted June 19, 2018 12 hours ago, WalledSonic said: Did you try putting the press tool back on the rivnut and re-pressing it? Ive done that before. Do your rivnuts have serrations on the side that touches the metal? I didnt try that, thanks for the idea, ill try it out. Yah it has those ridges that are supposed to help bite into the metal.
OrvilleStarr Posted July 19, 2018 Report Posted July 19, 2018 Have you tried it out already? How did it go?
06RTCharger Posted July 30, 2018 Author Report Posted July 30, 2018 On 7/19/2018 at 12:56 AM, OrvilleStarr said: Have you tried it out already? How did it go? I drilled the lose ones out and reinstalled a new one into the same hole with some CA glue between the sheet metal and rivetnut. It held fine now. I was able to tighten it enough to be secure. But i didnt try to really torgue it down, just tight enough to secure it.
audiofanaticz Posted July 30, 2018 Report Posted July 30, 2018 I would almost use an epoxy over CA glue. CA can be strong, but it can also be very brittle depending on what type your using, and how much accelerator is used. I would possibly try getting epoxy between the rivet and panel that your installing the rivet to before compressing it.
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