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so what are you going to name the twins and how are you going to set up their room.

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






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thanks everyone! they definitely look like they push. I like the fact that they are push terminals too. and I love the black cone and baskets. Ill be buildin a box tonight to house them but unfortunately, Ill only have my zeus to test them out that will put out 220 to each. But its better for testing than nothin. And I just ordered my 0 gauge to run instead of 4 so I can hook up both zeuses. So no full on test till next week. progress box pics tonight!

Edited by mbdblue

AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco

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Can we atleast get a free air vid?

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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They do quite nicely with 200-watts each.

Thermally they will take more - mechanically they don't really need it.

PS: If you really intend to run quite a bit over 200-watts I'd lay down some 5-minute epoxy around the spider as you will run the risk of reaching suspension limits which will put alot of stress on the spider landing glue when the spider "locks up" and may tear it off.

Edited by sundownz

- Jacob Fuller

- Owner, Sundown Audio

- Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK

- Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected]

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They do quite nicely with 200-watts each.

Thermally they will take more - mechanically they don't really need it.

PS: If you really intend to run quite a bit over 200-watts I'd lay down some 5-minute epoxy around the spider as you will run the risk of reaching suspension limits which will put alot of stress on the spider landing glue when the spider "locks up" and may tear it off.

So if and when I get get my 8 e8s I was gonna run a zx2500.1 to them, so really it only needs a 1500.1?

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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So if and when I get get my 8 e8s I was gonna run a zx2500.1 to them, so really it only needs a 1500.1?

Thats all you really need for em.

If you want to have the ZX2500.1 on hand for headroom that is okay too.

Thermally they are REALLY strong, but you run out of throw in a reasonable sized box on music that goes down low.

- Jacob Fuller

- Owner, Sundown Audio

- Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK

- Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected]

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The first thing that will happen if you over power them is popping your spider off - that is easy enough to fix. It is hard to bottom them out or cook them thermally, so I wouldn't worry about either of those too much.

The motor is still quite strong at the suspension limits - this is why I suggested adding epoxy when running over the rated RMS power. That way even if you lock up the suspension hard you won't pull them off to begin with. I'm looking into stronger glue for my next run - as I have burped these with ~800 watts when assembled with epoxy :)

Before shipment I do test each driver with ~120 watts free air and add a short burst up to 175-200 watts or so to test for mechanical integrity. It will take quite a bit to pull your spider off since they all pass my testing before shipment, but I like to err on the side of caution when advising how to run a driver.

Edited by sundownz

- Jacob Fuller

- Owner, Sundown Audio

- Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK

- Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected]

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