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x10 try making the car as quiet as possible.

get the largest mid/woofer you can fit up front, then run a large midrange and a tweeter in the apillar. you will either need appropriate crossovers or digital (rockford 360.2)

i have a 3way CDT set id sell you for a good price, bought it from woofers etc. on liquidation and the woofers wouldnt fit in my doors so. cant return them because itd get the ole "open box" pm me if interested.

DCAUDIO

BALLS DEEP

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Im getting some kick panels so im gonna mount a 6.5" midbass and a tweeter down low, and a 6.5" midrange in the door and another tweeter up top, if that would work, im trying to stay away from glassing my a pillars i dont have alot of room to fit anything and still keep my oh shit handles haha

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Alpine CDA-9886

4 Fi Audio X Series 12's

1 Crunch GP3000D Pro

DC Power Inc. Alternator(Kickin out 15+ volts!)

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Dampen the whole vehicle. The main reason BMW's sound so great is because they have little to no road noise and they are built solid so nothing resonates inside the cab. I would strip the interior and start with two to three layers of good dampner. A solid 3 way setup in the front, components in the rear and a couple 8's or one 12 in a T-Line for subs. Follow that with clean power and look into the Audio Control system diagrams for what processors you will need.

That will give you a good start, it will take alot of work to get where you are headed but it is achievable.

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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Qu1cks

go for a t-line if your sub meets the requirements.

sound great and can still get down if you want it to.

Huh ? With a single 15" sub ??? Do you realize that would require aprox 14 cubic ft ? Sure, t-lines (so they say) are really clean, flat, transparent, etc..... but if the OP was going to go with a t-line, and he wasn't too worried with having a ton of booming bass anyway, maybe a t-line for one 8" would suffice.... and that would probably only take up about 3 cubes too.

For one of those 15"s, I'd probably go with sealed, and either the optimum cubes recommended by that sub company.... or even a touch smaller {and personally speaking, I like a lot of deep, loud bass.... but I'm trying to stick to what the OP was asking for here}

I agree with Sully, if you want a setup that sounds like the ones in a BMW, the car needs to be as quiet (or as close as you can get it) as a BMW. Lots of deadening.

Peace,

Fish

Edited by Fish Chris
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I am fairly happy with my JL component sets. I have two sets ( see sig ) and running them on a sundown... And it sounds really nice. I am always happy to show it off.... and people seem impressed. But the biggest thing, especially while driving, is deadener. you simply can not put in too much.

I really want to do all of my wheel wells with spectrum .... The FJ has pretty big tires on it, and I think that is about the last avenue I can go besides pulling the dash out and deadening behind it completely.

2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue

my upgrades and "build" thread.

My Kulicki Box Build

-Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars

-Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash )

-JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi

- Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box.

-Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio

-All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0,

-270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum-

-2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back

FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz.

Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties
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Qu1cks

Huh ? With a single 15" sub ??? Do you realize that would require aprox 14 cubic ft ? Sure, t-lines (so they say) are really clean, flat, transparent, etc..... but if the OP was going to go with a t-line, and he wasn't too worried with having a ton of booming bass anyway, maybe a t-line for one 8" would suffice.... and that would probably only take up about 3 cubes too.

For one of those 15"s, I'd probably go with sealed, and either the optimum cubes recommended by that sub company.... or even a touch smaller {and personally speaking, I like a lot of deep, loud bass.... but I'm trying to stick to what the OP was asking for here}

I agree with Sully, if you want a setup that sounds like the ones in a BMW, the car needs to be as quiet (or as close as you can get it) as a BMW. Lots of deadening.

Peace,

Fish

yes it would take up alot of space, but if he wasnt worried about space why not. sealed would be good too, but after going from sealed to ported then to a t-line, if i have the space ill always use a t-line.

First Gen Xterra: Always changing

DNX 690HD

RF 360.3
RF T3002
RF T4004
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Silver Flute 6.5"s
Tang Band 1" Tweeters
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u want good components grab the AA carbons they dont come with a passive network so u must run all active but they sound amazing and are fairly cheap lmk if u want some I can get em for you.

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sealed is for fegs, lol

but for real, never heard a sub in a sealed box that sounded "great" to me

LSN2meBoom916 has 4 12s sealed that sounds GREAT. op i have no clue what you should do. maybe put your 4runner shell on a bmw frame :D

REST IN PARADISE BIG RICH (Sqmonte) never forgotten

Why do you guys ALWAYS dispute on NUMBERS?????

It's such a played out argument, so fucking annoying....

It's 12 fuckin 15's.... It's louder than you... Shut the fuck up...

/Rant

:)

I'm so jealous, it makes me want to club baby seals. That shit gets down HARD!

dont buy from knowledge he will scam you.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/30995-official-knowledge-feedback/

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