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thats a no brainer dc...

2005 Dodge Magnum

Kenwood DNX573S Double Din

NVX Big 3 Kit

NVX 0 Gauge Cable & speaker cable

XS Power V3100 Battery

Iraggi Alternator 320A

3.5" NVX Speakers

6.5" Incriminator Audio Components (just mids)

6x9" NVX Speaker

MVPA4 Amplifier

(2) 12" NVX VCW Subwoofers

XPLD3K NVX Amplifier

 

 

 

YouTube Channel

@CarlosTj664

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Definitely go with the DC subs over those garbage W0s... How much power are you gonna have?? and what vehicle do u drive??

Btw it's spelled "which" not "witch" for the word you used a couple times in your first post.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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There is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid people!!! Get the dang DC and STFU. Stop trying to justify the JL W0's

For this question be asked I reccommend you get :ban:

J/P get the DC and you will forever be a happy camper.

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






dc_audio.jpg

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I assume the W0's are close to the old W1's. I hated the W1's I thought it was a very cheap made sub. I say go for the DC Audio

the w0's are louder but dont sound as good as the w1's.......

but to the OP--having had the new w0's (had 3 12's in a single cab toyota pickup).....i'm going to say go with the DC

Clicky for build log....

2002 Tahoe

DC Power Inc 3 alt bracket with 2x230a. alts 1 stock

Eclipse CD5030

2 JL HD 600/4

4 Rockford Fosgate 2500bdcp's

4 DC Audio 18" XL's

4 Pr MB Quart Premium Components

200FT Stinger HPM 1/0

Rockford 360.2

No where near enough sound deadening

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JL is a good product but if ur looking for bass i would go with DC

EDIT: well ive never heard a DC sub but they seem loud! i would also recommend DD Audio. gets loud and sounds clean i have 1000 watts rms going to a 750 watt rated sub and it looks like i can still take and extra 200 watts with no problem.

05 Ford F150 Single Cab

Audio:

-Pioneer DEH-3200DVD

-Hertz Hi-energy 5x7 Front

-RE Audio 5x7 Rear

-DD 2512 in Custom 40 Hz Box

-Eclipse EA4100 High/Mid amp

-Eclipes XA1000 Sub amp

-Audison Connnection RCAs

-Random wire:Kicker,RF,Lightning Audio

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Everybody on this forum seems to love DC, so you should know what people would tell you : Go DC !!!

4 15's level 3 : sounds good!

You can go for less subs and pick the level 4.

With discount prices on DC, forget about JL.

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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