Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

How Do You Know When Your Pushing A Sub To Its Limit?


Recommended Posts

I was going to pm meade with this question but i think it could help alot of us out there.

Anyway im wondering what clues you get that your pushing you sub to or past its limit? I remember reading a while back that you would turn it down if you smelt anything but what else is there? Reason why im asking is because ive decided to run the Fi Q 15" woofers and with my amp its 300w extra per woofer (rated power) so i just want to know the signs so i have a better chance at not blowing the woofers

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

with my subwoofer, it would get to a point where it would just not get any louder. the physical characteristics of the sub would be working at peak, and the sub just couldn't move any farther.

That was the limit....any more volume after that and you would smell coil, because it couldn't be cooled any further.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if ur sub is moving as far as that foam surround can stretch then turn that shit down a tit bit. lol.

Gota have my rear view shakin and my seats vibratin'.

(2) 12" Diamond D3

(1) DEI Directed Audio 2400D

(1) Kicker L5 15"

(1) Rockford Fosgate P5002

(2) 12" Fosgate P2's

(2) 15" Fosgate P2

^^Not all hooked up at once, i rotate. Its all i got.^^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

actuallly smell is a dead giveaway :) also, i keep an eye on my voltage, once the system starts dropping some i know its time to back off. I have a lot of alt but technically still not enough for the power im running......but they hold their own fo sho'. I can bump hard enough to hurt someone and still be in the 14v range but its the full tilt stuff that wants to chew up my electrical :D Anyway also if you have a good ear, sorta like was said above, you can tell when your system just doesnt have any more in it so thats a good place to stop turning it up. If you hear it stop getting louder and you turn it up even more hoping for more output your voltage suffers and you start clipping.........thats when subs start gettin warm :D

My btls never make any noise other then bass but i know some subs in certain boxes may make a weird noise when driven to its limits. Definitly if you hear anything other than bass then its time to back off.


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
wc2022-red-black-whitebg_1667625898__08138.original.png.02e514af82dce531edf1aa4a36851c60.png

Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications!
http://www.youtube.com/meade916

 

Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them :D
http://www.instagram.com/meade916

The Official SMD Facebook fan Page
https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/

Follow my Tweet (Twitter)
http://www.Twitter.com/meade916
 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup, smell is the best way when you are ported.

Once the subs start getting a dirty signal ( when a sine wave starts to becoming rough at the amplitude) the VC's will burn a little or you will smell it. With my new L7 I broke it in for a few weeks, then I started pushing the sub to find it's limits. If you have wattage that is near the rated RMS of the sub, as long as you can play a song for about a minute at a certain volume and not smell anything, it is a pretty good indication that you are not damaging it. If you smell ANYthing from the sub then you know you have the gains, volume or w/e too high.

This is the method I use to find my subs' limit. It is usually ok to intentionally make the subs smell to find their limits. If you have a good quality woofer it won't damage it if it smells for a few seconds, it's just the glue burning on the voice coils, but it is bad if you do it for more than a few seconds.

-------------------------------------------------

1st place circuit city car/spl show (maplewood,MN) 2006

146.6 dB's with 2 12" L7 and 1606d brutus

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i say smell. if you cant smell, then your ears get used to your subs anyway and will be able to tell when they sound like there clipping.

DD M4


Rockford Fosgate P500-4


SoundQubed HDC415 w carbon fiber cap


2 Rockford Fosagate T1675-S


XS Power D3400 Under Hood


XS Power D5100 in rear


Michael Singer 200A Alt


Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/153901-2012-veloster-update-842013-wall-build-4-15s/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I just listen for the sub to start losing sound quality. When the bass starts getting sloppy, its a good bet the subs aren't going to take much more.

A couple links to some box builds:

Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI,

Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150

My own car builds (current setup --- under construction):

Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors

Subwoofer Wall

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cool thanks everybody... but hey by chance does anyone know where i can get a clipping indicator and how they work?

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clipping indicators are built into the ampifier, if they have one at all. Clipping indicators detect when the signal become distorted in the output stage of your amplifier. That distortion gives you a square, clipped wave that puts out more power than the speaker and amplifier can handle. It is a dirty, unclean and damaging waveform. You would be hard pressed to find a PA amplifier (the rackmount type) without clip LEDs for both channels. Chances are if the amp doesn't have a clip indicator circuit, that's the end of the story. But, if you are good with electrics and have a hand with soldering, you could build one yourself but prepare to be hackin' yo amp up a bit.

My advice is make sure yo system got compressors and limiters. You set the max volume and it ain't going any higher than that.

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1583 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...