moetpoppin Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 also for all vehicles that don't have frames (unibodies) I always trust stock ground locations. good thing about them is theres already a bolt there and you know it works. I spent a while trying to find good places for my ground. Best place for me ended up being a place that stock things were grounded. After putting in my system, every time my system stopped working, it was a ground problem. I spent hours trouble shooting the first couple times until I learned that it had been the ground wire every time. Its just as important as your power wire. Try and sand a little of the paint off to get a good connection. TY TY Moet poppin', hoe hoppin', aint no stoppin' B.I.G. poppa, I'm a bad boy Party and Bullshit - The Notorious B.I.G. Honest estimate on this truck when it's all done........... 172.3........... Ehh.. U are aware of what 172.3 is, right? yep..... Two Pyle 15"s Build log
moetpoppin Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 also for all vehicles that don't have frames (unibodies) I always trust stock ground locations. good thing about them is theres already a bolt there and you know it works. Sorry about the double post but heres some more info. The first place i grounded was a fuel pump... DO NOT DO THIS Then I found a bracket that held my seatbelts to the frame. It was decent but a reach for where I had my amplifier end up when I finished my install. The place I ended up grounding my amps with no problem is the stock grounding location for my tail lights. My wire is only about 8 inches and works like a charm. I dremeled the paint away from the chassis for a solid connection and hooked up my wire with a ring terminal. Eventually I want to have a few ground terminals screwed directly into the chassis for either a new extra battery set up or to a bus bar system. Busbars work amazing in marine set ups where you dont have a metal chassis as ground and need to send a wire to the nearest battery. Steve Meade and this guy EXOcontralto have made videos about making bus bars. They are a great idea for a clean set up not to mention a badass look when mounted properly. Theyre also great for organizing your power system and extra batteries and mounting everything parallel. TY TY Moet poppin', hoe hoppin', aint no stoppin' B.I.G. poppa, I'm a bad boy Party and Bullshit - The Notorious B.I.G. Honest estimate on this truck when it's all done........... 172.3........... Ehh.. U are aware of what 172.3 is, right? yep..... Two Pyle 15"s Build log
ALPINE408 Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 Neg on a battery is good, Only if the negative on the battery is grounded to your frame or chassis with good wire preferably 1/0 gauge. Personally I ground my amp to my rear battery since its like a 2 foot run from amp to battery and thats grounded to the front battery which is grounded to my frame which I sanded, drilled and tapped. Very solid connection to the frame. If you dont have a tapset a nut and bolt will work as long as you sand it down to bare metal. wut the batt has to be grounded to the frame or it won't charge and if it was such a must why can I full tilt a batt bank for db drag with no alt or ground to the chasis the batt has it's own ground and the op asked the best place to ground...the batt is the best place no chance of ground loops as well pros allways have a good ground no ground loops the ground and power have the same connection and same resistance cons you use more wire if your going to do something do it right use more wire end thread Have you ever had your woofers blown?
bassmekanik22 Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 Best part about doing upgraded grounds and power all round is the potential for better lights and also better performance. I found the stock engine to battery ground to be bareley enough for the starter to operate let alone charge the battery. I also noticed better spark and a much easier starting engine. Lights were noticably brighter also. Systems: Fun Car: Deck: Alpine CDA-9887 Front sounds: Alpine SPR-175A x2 Front power: RF T400.2 Benched at 265x2 rms @ 2ohm Subs: RF T1 10 dual 4 Ohm x1 Sub power: RF R500.1 Box yet to be built. All in a Mazda 323 Hatch in the cargo area only. Daily hack: Deck: Alpine CDA-9886 Front sounds: RF T152 5.25" coax x2 Front power: RF Power T400.2 Subs: Alpine SWR-1021d x4 Sub power: RF Power T20001 4.59cuft net 56" of port tuned to 32hz. Work ute Deck: Alpine iDA-X303 Speakers front: Stock Speakers rear: None Subs: Alpine type S SWS-1040 Amp: Alpine MRV-T320 x1 for woofer. Box 1.42 cuft 39hz hidden under tray in blow thru design. New ute to be much different.
Neo_frog Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 It's amazing how many people are telling OPINIONS while only a couple stated the fact. The battery negative is the best place to ground. It's a guaranteed, consistent path of electron flow. For an optimal turn out, ground your alternator directly to your bank as well. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
BJD3 Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 It's amazing how many people are telling OPINIONS while only a couple stated the fact. The battery negative is the best place to ground. It's a guaranteed, consistent path of electron flow. For an optimal turn out, ground your alternator directly to your bank as well. So if all I have is the front battery, the best thing I could do is do another run of wire to the front for the ground? Or would that be too long of a run? the (main) reason I'm asking is several place I've gone says to ground 3 feet from the amp. My logic tells me it doesn't really matter since its all frame anyway. It has to travel the same distance whether I do it through wire or frame metal. Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert
AA98hoe Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 yea thats true but the frame has more resistence than copper wire it also depends on how much power you are pulling when you get into hundreds of amps even connectors and material types create resistence such as stainless steel thats a bad conductor. if u can afford it run 0g or multiple 0gs to the front negative on the battery that is the least resistive way also run a 0g from the back of alternator case or a bolt thats on mounting bracket to the negative terminal on battery and that will give you maximum charge from your alternator. or if you are like me and cant afford multiple runs of 0g ground directly to frame in back with mutiple 0gs and ground front battery the same way and of course do the big 3. TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.
finkster Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 It's amazing how many people are telling OPINIONS while only a couple stated the fact. The battery negative is the best place to ground. It's a guaranteed, consistent path of electron flow. For an optimal turn out, ground your alternator directly to your bank as well. I could not have said this any better. 1/2 the answers here are bullshit. Yes dc moves from - to + conventionally. Benjamin Franklin was the one to put the original names for them, although he could only look and try to determine which way the electricity was sparking. He ended up being wrong but its not that big of a deal, since both have just as much potential. Back in the day, the car's chassis used to be + instead of -. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living
skittlesRgood Posted July 30, 2010 Report Posted July 30, 2010 the (main) reason I'm asking is several place I've gone says to ground 3 feet from the amp. My logic tells me it doesn't really matter since its all frame anyway. It has to travel the same distance whether I do it through wire or frame metal. ive heard that from every shop as well. i dont believe they understand ohms law. its all resistance. steel doesnt conduct as well as copper but you also have a lot more steel than copper wire so it wouldnt be a problem. the bottle neck is the battery ground (if you ground the amp to the chassis). its like they think the power goes into the chassis and disappears instead of being a complete circuit. there are a lot of opinions and little facts on any forum. and everyone is wrong some times. whats funny to me is that even after the perfect answer is given, people still post the wrong answer. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.
sprkn_ranger Posted February 4, 2011 Report Posted February 4, 2011 Edit- double post, sorry. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/
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