Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/24/14 in all areas

  1. Alright guys it's September which means SUBtemeber is in full effect at Sonic. We're doing an NVX giveaway with the 1st prize being 2 VCWs, XPLD3K amplifier, enclosure, and amp kit. Click the banner below to enter. Oh, and one more thing... ITS NOT A FACEBOOK APP. Now you guys can stop complaining
    3 points
  2. damplifier is really only meant to be used on the sheet metal and the foam products are to be used from keeping 2 surfaces from touching or to "hold" a panel in place persay. You first need to find out the source of the noise you are trying to get rid of. If you have a system and it only rattles while thats on then turn on the system and go to the hatch area and see if you can find the rattling (might be hard in that situation but it is what it is) If it only does it while driving on a certain bad road then get someone to drive you down that road while you are in the hatch area with the music off preferably. You want to just hold your hand against whatever you think is rattling if it stops then you found the source if not try again. If you weren't able to locate the source with the panels on try with the plastic panels off, it could be the sheet metal. Just remember that nothing you do can really hurt (applying damplifier or foam products). There are certain situations that you cant do much to help but those are pretty uncommon. If you get to the point where you figured out there is a piece of plastic flexing causing the rattle and you cant really add foam to the issue then try the damp pro on the panel. Its not going to work like its made to but it will add some weight to the panel and hopefully lower the resonance freq of the panel.
    1 point
  3. Had a blast! You guys throw down! GG My in game name UG_Kilgore
    1 point
  4. Nobody claimed it's some crazy revolutionary technology -- it's a simple revamp to support our dealer market which very rarely has any 16v battery system customers. So no need to "poo-poo" on the thread to up your post count, IMO. It's also not as if DD invented amplifiers that don't support 16v battery systems =P
    1 point
  5. Each model costs less per watt on 12v than prior models. As our overall business has shifted more towards sales via B&M shops an increasingly smaller percentage of customers need high voltage stability. In the previous generation even the SAZ-1200D was stable to 19v -- it's been cut down to 15.5v on all SCV models; also the SAX-150.4 is capped at 15.5v where the 125.4 model ran to 19v as well. This, again, allows more wattage per dollar and per size than previous generation models. The NS-1 is also on it's last production cycle along with the SAZ-5000D; we will introduce and SCV-6000D in place of those two models. Dyno results and clamps tests forthcoming on that one as well. We may consider a large "NS" model amplifier again down the line but we have currently shifted all amplifier models to more dealer friendly 12v versions.
    1 point
  6. Sent these off to someone to Dyno them for us -- at some point we'll have our own Dyno to do all sorts of more specific testing but this is what I have right now. Obviously the Dyno figures @ 1% are alot lower than what you see with a clamp test -- but all amps are on par or above par. We will also do some of our own clamp testing down the line that is easier to compare to older results from prior models since Dyno cannot be directly compared to clamp results. SCV-1500D : SCV-2000D: SCV-3000D: SCV-4000D:
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...