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reedal

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Everything posted by reedal

  1. reedal
    Indeed. I'm half afraid to touch them. They have the most quality and worth out of every piece of audio equipment I have ever owned.Edit: damn auto correct
  2. reedal
    Not sure if anyone has already suggested it or asked, but any chance of seeing the 1500.2 on the dyno to see the numbers climb with our own eyes?
  3. reedal
    And here are my new 8" babies Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L8v1's
  4. reedal

    The HAT L8's I bought last night are the v1's, not the newer v2's. Same as the L3's I'm looking into purchasing. But I can't seem to find any L1v1's. Damn my OCD for wanting matching things. It's already going to be out of whack having everything SoundQubed except speakers once I have a full front stage completed.

    1. OrionStang

      OrionStang

      If it didn't say v1 or v2 you'd probably not even know they were different.

    2. reedal

      reedal

      not the tweeters, no, which is a plus. But the rest of the series has a different cone/dust cap between v1 and v2

  5. reedal
    If that is what the total of each individual piece of electronic equipment you added equals up to, then yes. So if you have three runs of 1/0 cable going to separate amplifiers, two of which recommend 100A fuses, and one that needs a 200A fuse, then yes, that would be how much alternator power you would need theoretically. If you have a daily sound system that plays music and not burp tones, then you won't even need that much, 75% of that will be more than enough to sustain what you have. List all of your amps and batteries you already have, and I'll give you a recommendation for your electrical based on that.
  6. reedal
    No. It's amperage to amperage. What's the recommended fusing for all of your aftermarket electronics summed up?
  7. reedal
    No. Alts only output what is required by them. Having more alternator than you require is better for the alt. just don't forget to account for your car as well (I know you said car/audio, but sometimes we forget). Alott at least 60amps for your car.
  8. reedal
    Why would you apply adhesive? The butyl on the deadener is the adhesive. In a sense. Heat it up, roll it on, whambamthankyoumaam
  9. reedal
    Set at 0dB means that the 1khz @ -0dB on the DD-1 track at max clean is putting out the most clean power it can (RMS, varying with impedance of the speaker). But music is attenuated, so that will not give you the loudest setting for music. Setting gain for -5dB overlap will be louder. As long as you set it clean, your HU is clean, and the music you're playing is clean, then you'll have a clip-free experience. You can set it with the -5dB track and you should be ok. I just like to play it safe when feeding more than rated to speakers. Especially tweeters. My apologies.
  10. reedal
    There's no need. Full pass the amp.
  11. reedal
    Nope. Stay away from boost anything. I'm glad to see you have crossovers. Your first post threw red flags at me. But all will be well I will make this suggestion. It's not exact, but it may be safer. Use DD-1 as planned and find your gain setting using the -0dB track. Take a picture or make note of its position. Then find the gain setting for the -5dB track. Then back it down to half way in between that setting and the position for -0dB, and you have a very roughly set -2.5dB (unless you want to download snowdrifters -2.5dB 1khz track to use). If it's not loud enough, then you can try the -5dB, but I really don't think that's a good idea for your tweeters.
  12. reedal
    I would say no for the tweeters, yes for the mids. But I will also say do not run those tweeters on a two channel with those mids unless you have a passive crossover In between the amp and tweeters, and I would say same thing for the mids. If you're trying to run active with that setup, your going to damage those tweeters very fast.
  13. reedal

    I want a garage. And a house. Once the wife finishes school, no more apartment :)

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. reedal

      reedal

      Oh Kyle. You and your jokes..... That I sometimes wonder if they're really jokes... ;)

      @duck: I don't want to do that. At all. It was hard enough to get her to find an apartment she liked that put her closer to work and school.

    3. reedal

      reedal

      It'd be funny if she was younger than me. Good try though.

  14. reedal
    I appreciate the tips. Thank you. Hopefully winter is over quickly and I can redo the doors first thing come spring time.
  15. reedal
    So many options to choose from. I appreciate it guys. Well, I sucked up the fact that it's cold here, jacked up the Tahoe and fought with the fuel filter for thirty minutes before deciding that my line disconnect is too long to get in there, so I need to go get a "low profile" disconnect. Yay -__- Then I decided I'll just go ahead and bleed the brakes and get some fresh fluid in there. That crap was blackkkkkk. Also, for future reference, it's easier to use clear tubing than black tubing when bleeding your brakes. I think I'm done for the day. I'll flush the hydro boost another time
  16. reedal
    Thank you, I'll try one of those out for when it's warm enough to do my doors again. What about rage gold? There's a Mobile Solutions store local to me which I believe carries it? I know a lot of people used to rave about it, but like most trendy things, it comes and goes.
  17. reedal
    i was trying to spread it some after it started to set. But no I've never seen anyone apply filler before. Thank you. It's not all that great as far as quality of work goes, but with every mistake I make I learn how not to make it again when the time comes to do it again.
  18. reedal
    So I got the stuff in from SHCA. Wire reducers, speaker wire, primary wire, some lugs and heat shrink, and RCAs. Also bought an LC-1 so I can adjust the subs more simply than using the 80prs controls three menus in. And I figured what better place to mount that eyesore than somewhere the entire thing will not be seen, but just the potentiometer? Don't mind how dirty the plate looks. I think it looks alright inbetween the VM-1 and OM-1 Haven't done any wiring runs or anything like that yet, it's just too cold. I'm trying to fight through the cold in order to replace my brake fluid, fuel filter, and fix my hydro boost, but the struggle is real.
  19. reedal
    13.6-13.8 yes. Less than that, no. No vehicle on a standard 12v electrical system will charge that low. the only reason for voltage to read lower than that all of the time is the alternator isn't charging at the voltage it should be.
  20. reedal
    Yea 13.2 with no music See my statement about swapping with a known good alt and looking for the voltage to rise. How are you measuring the 13.2?
  21. reedal
    DC Power Thanks. I got that already.
  22. reedal
    If he's sitting at 13.2 normally then the alt might not be charging at proper voltage and probably isn't outputting much of anything all is what I was getting at. Meaning bad alt. No alt should charge at 13.2, even a shitty eBay one. If that's what his voltage sits at normally, then I would check all connections to batteries and alt with the amplifiers disconnected, and if everything is tight without wiggling at all, but voltage is the same, id be swapping in the stock alt to see if voltage changes. If no change, he's got a computer issue.
  23. reedal
    So are you saying that your normal voltage stays at 13.2 without music playing? If so, that's issue number one, the voltage drop to 11V can wait.
  24. reedal
    My bad, I didn't see that part
  25. reedal
    What brand 320A alt?
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