reedal
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Everything posted by reedal
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Hmm. I'll see if they can demo some of that and other stuff for me whenever I go to check it out. I'll probably go to lowes though. The Home Depot by me is just a small one and doesn't have much stuff
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Might try this out though. Anyone used rustoleum bed liner before? http://m.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-15-oz-Tan-Truck-Bed-Coating-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-253438/204721422
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Bought this sander attachment for my B&D matrix drill Sanded the pods down to 240. Still haven't decided what I want to do with them though. They would look better matched to the interior, but I don't care to try wrapping in vinyl or anything, and I kind of want something to offset them from the rest of the tan/beige interior.
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I know this question has been answered in several threads, but I can't find one. What's the SHCA 1/0 OFC current rating for 20ft? I don't have that long of a run, but that will give me a basis
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Yeah I thought I had read 350 but wasn't sure. That's what I'm basing everything off of. Thanks.
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nice reedal...never hurts to keep brushed up on specs!
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Not at all. It would be nice if they had one of those neat little charts posted on their site with their wiring.
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Well this is what I got done today. Covered in body filler (I'm not very good at that part at all) and a little bit of sanding. I think an oscillating sander is in my future though. Finish it up tomorrow hopefully, prime/paint it. Can you tell which one was the first? Too much hardener First layer dried and sanded, and a second smoother layer Time for some Fiber Optic homework
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First time using body filler ever.... It didn't last five minutes before turning into a patty.
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sons matter is pretty dope too, i need to try rage next to compare
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*sonus
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i love rage. (evercoat)... .. all ive used...
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my parking break worked fine with the pods i made, the hood latch not so much.. had to open the door to pop the hood. the second set of pods i put in, i needed to bend the parking brake a little, i just did it by hand, its was pretty easy. also were did you get your led lights from, you have the same exact setup i have, and i couldn't find them. eBay. They're not a direct plug in play as it says in the description. The dome/map lighting was good, but the doors you have to force it into the housing and then get the end to come out, hold it with some needle nose pliers and plug in. Kinda ghetto, and sucks when you have to take them back out, but I hate dealing with returns. I made it work, that's what matters. Or you can sand/grind down the hole for the LED... But I like doing things the hard way. Oh, and if you do get these, if you plug them in and they don't turn on, flip it around, they have a positive and negative side I guess. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281292667933
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- soundqubed
- tahoe
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Mine were vented into the door, but I worked hard on sealing up and rattle proofing my doors too. Sounded great. As of now there is zero sound deadening that I have added. It's on my to-do list, but it's not too high priority right now. I know it helps and goes a long way towards better sound, but the ability to have sound is more of my current goal right now. I've only had about two weeks with a temporary full setup since I bought this in April. With it being my daily, the ride to and from work is long and quiet.
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There's no such thing as time in my life. I just do it before it gets dark after I come home every day.
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I've been playing around with the design with Torres and WinISD, but it's hard to find a medium between the two since they give different results. At least for a slot port. I need to try and do an aero design
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Good call on the glove box. I'll have to check it. Won't change anything, but it'll be good to know. Did you have to bend your parking brake pedal out of the way? If so, how did you do it?
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No, just a sealed pod. I want to see how it sounds first, and if needed I'll vent into the door. It will be SoundQubed's pro audio mids, with their component level tweeters. Do you think the mid will be better off vented into the doors?
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All dried up and ready for body filler and paint A little test fit. Has a little bit of a gap on the high side corner but I think once I actually mount it it'll be a snug fit. The drivers side 6.5 has the parking brake lever/pedal in the way though, any tips on bending it out of the way?
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Slowwwwwly getting the door pods ready for some speakers. Wrapped in fleece Getting ready for resin Remembered gloves this time And ready to dry Took the picture in the shade, but moved them into the sunlight afterwards. Hopefully I'll have them finished by next weekend. Won't get anything done tomorrow, and the wife will be home soon so I doubt I will have anything more done today either. In other news, I bought some rubber stoppers to put under the feet of my amps to help absorb some vibration and raise them up a bit for better cooling from underneath. Things that need to get done: -Design and build a new enclosure -Design and build a new amp rack -Purchase door speakers -Run more wire and ground for rear battery -Find a place to mount VM-1 If anyone follows this, sorry it's slow and not the greatest, but time and money are tight, I do what I can when I can.
- 317 replies
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- soundqubed
- tahoe
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Replaced tensioner pulley to find out the A/C compressor fucked up the pulley. Now I need to replace the compressor... Not high on my to do list.
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I can fit two and still have A/C, maybe three. Everything for the A/C is on the opposite side of the engine bay from the alt location. I'm already planning on getting the dual bracket and keep the stock alt with my singer. I don't drop much on music as is with just the stock alt, D3400 under the hood and a D4700 in the back. Lowest I've gotten is 13.3. But I'm only wired for 2600 @ 2ohms/14.4v, so it's not like I'm pulling crazy amperage like most with SUVs.
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Nice. My car can't fit two alts
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I know my TB can fit two, I don't see how but it can with a bracket. I haven't seen a dual alt set up in a le sabre
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Without a doubt, it's imposisible for me to do any kind of work on a vehicle without finding a way to cut some part of my body. It's the little ones that feel the worst.
- Show previous comments 6 more
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the ones you don't know. it sucks when you wash your arms and you feel them
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The ones you don't know for sure, cause I use hand sanitizer often at work, and I'll all of a sudden start feeling burns and can't even see any cuts anywhere, never even bled.
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It could have just been the amp. Open it up and take pictures of the board (specifically any spots that look fried). Unless it's still under warranty, in which case get it warrantied. No one can tell you what happened without knowing exactly how it was hooked up and adjusted, etc. I know with my AQ 90x4 I just sent to SoundQubed to check out and touch up, the gain potentiometers are loose or something and with just the slightest wiggle or vibration (as caused by my subs) it will cause the channels to distort very audibly until they wiggle again and then it's back to normal until the next go around. Sometimes it's just the amp. I apologize for accusing you off the back of user error, but it just seemed like you were saying the DD-1 fried your amp. If you're able to open the amp and look at the board(s) without breaking any seals and voiding any warranty, do it, take good pictures, and post them for people to look at, and the people who are familiar with the circuitry of amplifiers might be able to help figure out what happened.
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Did you use your multimeter to check the voltage coming out of the amp on those channels after this started? Did you leave the speakers connected while you did it? What ohm load are they wired to? What do they read individually? Basic troubleshooting. Check all possibilities first.
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Did you follow the directions in the manual? That's as basic as it gets. All EQ's and frequency boosters and anything else set to flat? You didn't crank the gain all of the way up and let it sit? How do you know the amp is fried? Is power/protect led on or off? Is everything hooked up correctly (RCA's in all of the way) did you check to make sure there is voltage coming through the RCAS
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Ok. Cool. Congrats on your purchase. Your DD-1 can NOT damage your equipment. If your equipment is being damaged, it is entirely user/installer error, or manufacturing error.
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There's a thread on here about how to post pictures. Look it up.
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A/C tensioner is done-ski's. No using the A/C until that's replaced
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I'm thinking of the compressor
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Yeah, fuck a compressor. If that went out I would say fuck it I don't need A/C
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Lol
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So going through my pictures I realized I never captured the big three. Although the only important pictures are when new stuff arrives and box building anyways. Here's the big three: alt positive to battery positive, alt case to battery ground, battery ground to frame Gotta get a new dmm cause I fucked up the screen on accident. It was just a cheapie from Home Depot so not too big of a deal. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll have the singer 270 hairpin in, and soundqubed will have their pro audios back in stock for me to order. Then I just have to wait for them to fix and return the AQ 90x4 and I'll be golden for a little while. Next thing after that is a new box. Edit: also going to upgrade from the 250A fuses I have to 300 and run another positive to the back, and run more speaker wire.
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My manual doesn't say it either.
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Haha that's good. At least it was figured out.
