Team_DC-Derrick

thats flawed, and im headed over there in 3 months... if we dont get their military up to handle the situations that arise... we will be back to where we were in 2001, with 9/11, and we will end up back over there again, for more years the next time... if we get them to the point they can defend them selves, we wont ever have to go back... I would rather go in debt more NOW than pull out, and be forced back over there LATER....

i agree. i hate hearing about more of my friends dying or getting hurt but the job is still not done. the ANA need to get their shit together yep, thats basically all we are waiting for now, to pull us completely out of there... but, civilians wont really know this information unless those of us who know whats truly going on over there, tell them.

their military is just not up to handle the situation that is over there... Ill be there in about 4 months... knowing the fact that their military cannot handle whats going on, makes me want to keep people over there... but at the same time, I do not like the loss of life period... once their military is up to par and able to handle any and everything that the enemys can throw at them, I am all for pulling out... But leaving a country to get overran by the terrorists will lead to us being back over there again, soon

meca, at the headrest on music 155.2 at 35hz

That's kind of what I was thinking but maybe not 3 more? Now who can help with a killer box?? yeah, i wouldnt do a wall with 3 18s in a SUV that is... you got like 100 cubes to work with if you are doing it at the b pillar....thats a ton of room... do a regular box and like tone said when you wall it, add 3 more and call it a day, 6 18s in a wall in a suv > 3 18s in a wall in a suv

Are they XL's or lvl 4's? XLs when they first came out, were called lvl 4 XLs

read this thread then http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/112328-distortion-detector-vs-o-scope-reason-11-to-use-the-dd-1 thats a better one

videos or i dont believe this is real

recone update?

he just never said when LOL.. could be 2 years from now

rusty also said it in the thread that was posted about it a few months ago i get first protos of them according to what he said

I have no problems using SPL subs for groundpounding, so your whole statement about them being SPL subs isnt needed LOL lots of cone area, a decent amount of power = pretty damn good groundpounder, in a SICK ASS BOX... and that means no prefabs

my loudest score was at 35hz on music... doing a 155.3 at the headrest... lol, talk about ear fucking people

That makes no sense. think about it if gain is down on amp all the way then you turn up deck till it clips through the amp. then if you adjust amp gain any higher its automaticlly going to be clipped signal right? thats why you test where the deck clips at first.... if you set the max volume unclipped from the deck, then you gain the amp till it starts to distort = you just set the gains I understand what you are trying to say, and no, it doesnt work that way

from switching to the 3, down to the 2 18s, i actually lost... .7 and it SOUNDS/feels SOOOO much louder than it ever was.... just meter the sum bish

I would still add a ground from the engine block to the chassis... i have tons of grounds up front, incase something happens LOL so if i run the wire fdrom the engine block to the chasi, do i run a wire from that part of the chasi to the negative also? just use a ground close to where your battery is... your engine to chassis ground doesnt have to be the battery ground spot... as long as both are touching the frame, thats all that matters

I would still add a ground from the engine block to the chassis... i have tons of grounds up front, incase something happens LOL

I thought it was negative battery to chassis and negative battery to engine block ? you can, but the point of putting the negative from the engine to the chassis is for the battery negative to the chassis.. you could do all of them to be safe

you ground the battery to the chassis, the engine block to the chassis, *not in same location...* and you fuse the wire going from the power side of teh alt, to the power of the battery... and you leave the stock wires

thats sweet, i have to save that, Thanks ray!

LOL, i love how they said he slipped and fell to sustain all those injury's serves him right

im sure it will come with a CD that has the freqs on it, that you need to test with, so no need to worry about downloading them...

sealed boxes generally hit a wide variety of frequency's with almost no drop in the frequency's where a ported box has a pretty narrow slope of frequencys it can play thats from my experience from a ported to a sealed, i loved sealed alot more than i ever liked ported.... but for straight loudness, ported is where its at

Ive just never seen it happen, but you are probably better off calling rusty and talking to him directly.. not saying you fucked it up or anything, but there is always a first, just like it could have been a faulty recone..

looks like a bad recone job.... dunno how rusty will make it right if it was user error.. he said he got the recone in a few days ago, not that he sent it to rusty and rusty reconed it himself... i think you will be buying another recone.. but thats just me What in user error would cause the coil to unwind like that, I've seen burnt and destroyed coils unwind but not a good looking coil like that, maybe no shims were used? no idea man.. alot of shit can happen if you dont do things the right way... but if rusty reconed it, then I am willing to be he would take care of it .. if the OP reconed it, im also willing to bet he will be buying a new recone... not trying to be a dick or anything, but you cant expect some one to warranty something if you fuck it up by not doing it the right way.. lol