fritosaregood

if your going to do that do it right. dont put it on the back seat, take the back seat completely out. i would up fire it. and if you want to keep trunk space then seal it off. if you dont need it then i would have external ports firing back into the trunk.

i'll be that 1/10 thats interested, haha

Tline? nope that would be probably the worst box they could go in lol soo... gonna say what the design they love is?

Why is your window so far up??

Someone on another forum mentioned them but how good of a build quality are they? Ever use them before? I had one for a while and it did great on a sundown 1500. then one day i did some testing with in on 3k in a box tuned to 50hz for spl, and played chopped and screwed music on it and finally after 2 or 3 songs the sub ripped itself apart but the could still looked brand new.

i would do some Mach 5 IXL 10s with that space.

Not sure if i get what your saying but say if your are saying you have a 4x4 port to 22" long and split it to 2 2x4 ports you'll still need 22", technically a little more because of your.. technical stuff. and if your saying split it to 2 4x4 ports and make it 11" long its gonna be tuned alot higher.

Lucky, I had mine computer go out after a storm, had a surge protector, and it fried the mother board. On the bright side all i had to do was get an adapter and i had a nice external hard drive, haha.

this. because if you have a dual 2, you can get wither of those amps. but if you get a dual 4, you got to get an amp that is 2 ohm stable or a amp that puts out max at 2 ohm ex. kicker ZX line or if its d4 he could get a rockford 1000BDcp my homeboy getting a sa-12 d2 your homeboy is most likely gonna hurt the sub on either of those amps, unless you set the gains down.

yea, series is alot more complicated to tune the ports

Dont the parallel tuned 6th orders need to have the chambers tuned 1 octave apart, like on would be 30hz and the other chamber would be at 60hz

look harder next time.. http://www.woofersetc.com/search.aspx?searchterm=sundown

you could fit 2 12s behind the seats if you give up a little leg room. and i would say add an xs d3100 in the back and the biggest one you can fit under your hood, and then a DC alt. you might be around $1000 at the end.

the site does have specs listed for a reason...

Come over to arspl.forumotion.net to say hey to all of us. We had one show up in fortsmith last year, so there should be another this year.

I have only seen one of their customer vehicles. it was a truck with 4 12s. but I was more talking about there competition knowledge. If you go in there and just ask questions you can learn alot from them. Im in Bryant, down in central arkansas. There are a few guys down here and another bunch in the conway area, then the searcy area that i know about.

Check out a shop up there called TJs Audio. They do RD audio and i think Addictive audio. Really smart guys up there too.

i wouldnt worry about adjustable voltage on an accord. the cars computer will just turn it down on its own. they are dumb like that

I had problems with mechman on my accord. and it was a very tight fit. DC was alot better fit and havent had problems out of it.

its pretty much just switching the pos and neg wires, so instead of the sub going out-in-out, it goes in-out-in

1. In a truck it uses the back window line 2. the kick panels are aloud, 3. the main rule i know of on this is your cant have a speaker larger than 8 inches (or maybe 10) in front of the B pillar, but i dont think a modified console is aloud, but i honestly wouldnt worry about having an extra set of speakers in your console, just let the doors or kick panels do thing.

I used the old b stock spl tiles. they were really easy to work with since it was a smaller size, i had my entire roof deaden and just added a T shape alot the roof with the top of the T going across the back and i gained somewhere around .5 db from that. but the tiles peeled of easily with the summer heat when i installed them, but i read on the site that the b stock ones had a bad glue or something and werent recommended to be mounted like i had them.

you can never over do wiring, especially when youre most likely gonna upgrade. most of the stock wires in a car are close to 4 gauge too, so the big 3 should really be in 0 gauge.

i thought the problem was with the newer 3250.1s

It will handle it if you have the electrical, and put out more power id say.