EricM9104

They are the best of blocks to boost, thanks to an open deck design. Great motor to build for N/A though no open deck block is good to boost..... thin cylinder walls..... a great block to boost is a fully closed deck..... have it sleeved and put bout 25 psi to it (with proper internals and standalone ecu and such) and you will have a QUICK car. me personally im not a honda person...dont have anything against them but i like my subaru. btw isnt the k20 the most powerful out of the box? thats what i was told lol i heard they are hard to find aftermarket parts for though n thats why no one uses them..... idk... Sorry about that. I had mean't they aren't the best block to boost right off the bat.

IMO, I wouldn't do a full dual exhaust, you'll lose sooo much lowend with that. Have a single pipe run to the rear and y-pipe it to give it the "dual exhaust" look.

I was thinking more ignition timing, but with a coilpack it'd use a crank or cam sensor. Also another thing to look into.

Plugs gapped correctly? Proper heat range? Timed right? It's missing. May have a faulty coilpack.

Playing at the Fs of a woofer will cause it to not move as much, and in theory heat up the coil pretty quickly due to little air movement in the pole vent.

If that site has prices like http://courtesyparts.com Stick with it. Stick with OEM Nissan parts, and that pricelist actually looks about right considering what the parts are.

Because of tards not being able to listen to it, majority of german car owners are women who do all their makeup while driving, and talking on the phone. They're too damn "busy" to listen for the squeal indicator.

Turbo'd daily Honda fail. Open deck, that's all I'll say. Sure, it may hold up, but I wouldn't.

They are the best of blocks to boost, thanks to an open deck design. Great motor to build for N/A though

You can fit roughly 12^3' around the windowline... Not reccomended for 15s unless being overpowered.... Or run port to side or top, and be like 23^3' (box volume itself, not inside..)

Little update, replaced ignitor, P/S pump started spraying all over the place, had a new clutch line made, and put in a new front main...Also painted again SR20 to come when funds are available

Explorer. Can they hold 3-4 alts? And what years? 1st and 2nd gen (1991-2001). Can do 3 with custom brackets...Along with ditching the A/C system.

Explorer.

mounts don't "make" extra power, they just help with off the line acceleration whereas worn mounts absorb some of that "shock". You won't see more power.

Gone pignose with front lip...Looks slammed.

ok so a little over a month, i lied new paint scheme...gonna be all white

I don't have a credit card, only normal bank card. If you don't have a credit/debit card it's not possible as far as i have tried. My debit card worked great with paypal

Paid $500 for the shell. I've only got about 2 months of on and off work into it

I didn't have the $3k to swap in an SR20 Running KA, I don't care...

Nah, gutted the interior for it to be lightweight. It'll get 1 12", 2 at the most. After I fix my roof.

It's never gonna see a wall, lol sorry.

Alright, bought this 240SX SE Coupe loooking like this... Got it home, tore down the KA24DE and it's royally fucked (seized and rusted internals). KA24E, I have no use for. Bought a motorset for #325, had a blown head gasket, but came with a nice clutch line, ACT 6-puck unsprung clutch, and an ACT lightweight flywheel. All back together... In... Wired up... Found a can of satin black.. Sticking with flat black for now... Audio aspect.... Pioneer 4x6 or something in front pass door (nothing in driver door) and pioneer 2 or 3 ways 6.5" in rear deck, along with an oldddddd Pioneer DEH-3400.

Get a slower car (civic) and don't add any stupid stuff that "adds" horsepower (IE: Fartcan, body kit, clear tail lights, and stickers)

Don't forget to fix the oil leak so it doesn't happen again

Where can one get 1.21 gigawatts and a flux capacitor?