Torres

ah well that's not too too bad. i just finished one for a member on here, and i have another lined up for one of my friends. may try a bandpass with it, she just wants bass back in her car so any bass will be fine for her

north east kentucky, where at exactly? i'm in ky by cincinnati

tape off the ipad completely and make a fiberglass mold for it. then make a faceplate for the front of the screen, then glass the mold to the faceplate. make sure it slides in and out easily enough. i also recommend putting a felt type fabric on the inside of the mold to prevent scratches

it's worth it

good deal! i may have to pick up my CC-1 sooner than planned. i'm ok with that

i'm glad someone else caught that lol

you high?

musically, going below 1 ohm is not necessary or beneficial

the pic is a rendering of the product. not even a beta model. everyone is so quick for pricing lol. given what the other items can do and the price they're at, i'm sure this will also be affordable.

sure, it could move air and meter decently, but how does it sound for daily music? as in normal music that's not slowed down or altered

i'm aware that the knob position doesn't mean anything, but given that you simply turned it down to avoid clipping i was curious as to how you were sure that the signal was correctly matched, as in voltage-wise. say one is at 9.5 volts, then another is at 10.2 volts. you could have turned it down two or three or four times as much and it still wouldn't be clipping. but then chances are they wouldn't be fully matched. but that last part with the CC-1 answered my question if it detects it with the light. i plan on getting the CC-1 eventually, but if i have to set multiple amps before then, i'm going to use a DMM in conjunction to ensure that they are all not clipping, and that the voltage is set the same. basically what i was curious about

good vid. but one thing i have a question about is when doing more than one amp/channel to match up with, wouldn't you want to use a DMM in conjunction in order to make sure they're fully matched? sure, they're not distorting, but the physical position of the gain may be slightly off causing different readings on a DMM. it may not even be much to matter, but something i've been curious about. i brought it up in another thread a while ago, but never saw a reply about it. and sure, it's just a demonstration of the products themselves, but just asking regardless since i don't have any equipment to try it on myself lol

i received mine today. quality is really nice on it. neat to see that it was signed too. wasn't quite expecting that i'm gonna have to find a pouch of fab up some kind of protective case. i wanna keep it protected from all the hazards in my tool bags

get swype. swype is the shit for texting i love it

you'll definitely want a plunge router. or a fixed base with a plunge attachment included. i got a ryobi one, but it still does everything i need it to do just fine, and with ease. kinda wanna get a better quality one tho. it's loose and when i go to tighten it after i plunge it in the right depth, it slightly shifts. makes lil divots i guess you could call em in rings when i do em. little sanding fixes that, but still

i see what you did there

i've used this method before. few years back. also used the grommets. both worked well for me. box was also very braced

About your hat in the dishwasher...would you put you're dishes in the washing machine? I thought the same thing before, but it's different detergent. They have hat shapers that supposedly keep the shape, but they don't work well. My best advice is to do it by hand

You say it's going to be more than just a box. I'm intrigued

definitely need more port area. and bigger ports vs more, smaller ports

close. it's 2.842 cubic feet

he's joking. i thought it might be a typo and meant 40 hz, but his current box is tuned to 31 hz. please don't try to tune a box to 4 hz lol and please don't buy a random box and call it a day

http://bcae1.com you'll learn tons from there

easiest way i found to do round overs is on the edge of the piece you want rounded, mark it off with as a square. most likely it'll be a .75" x .75" square. then find the middle of the square and use that as the center of your circle. so now you'll have a .75" x .75" square with a tiny circle inside of it which is touching each side of the circle. now you can erase the inside line that made the square, inside part of the circle, and 2 ruler lines used to find the center of the square and use your push/pull tool to push the two edge pieces marked out all the way down. then you'll have 3 lines on the piece itself left over. just right click and click the 'hide' option. sounds kinda complicated, but it's really not. i can post a pic by pic process if needed. it's really easy

completely off topic...but i've never laughed so hard at an avatar. i laugh every time i see it...and i can't stop watching it lol