Torres

some people have no patience just give it a day or two. Fi has no control on how fast the company ships it once it's out of their hands, or what they do with the operations on their side

drop it...your exhaust already sounds pretty beastly coming stock. it can hold off a bit

i'm guessing that they don't need to prove that it was actually you driving the car? that's kinda dumb. if i let my friend drive my car to the store and he runs a red light, i don't get the ticket, he does. so if he's flashed, i get it? glad i'm in a tiny city without those lol

kinda off topic, but i always like to commend people who quit smoking. so...kudos to you on that

rofl i like the direction this thread is heading

yeah...i definitely wouldn't even give it a second thought

i was going to post that exact thread. on the last couple boxes i've done, i've covered em in fabric but in the port i just use a roller and roll the paint on. it's thick and doesn't get sucked into the wood. one coat, maybe two is all you need. but if you're gonna paint the outside of it, proper prep work will still be needed

yeah it's out of the case itself. it was taken out to be placed behind the screen where my vents were, so they're bolted to some plexiglass now. if you planned on trying to leave it in the case i can work on putting it back in for you.

Haha noob question but what are baffles? baffles are the side of the box the subs sit on. and give yourself more port area, and don't make it as thin as it'll be more susceptible to port noise.

it definitely needs to be molded to fit. it's pretty large as well. i drive an 05 dakota and removed my vents and relocated my cd player to get it to fit awesome! let me know

$250 shipped

unless it's a burp only machine, it's pointless to try to figure that out. unless you decide you want to check every frequency for rise at that specific frequency. music is too dynamic

brrrrrump

it most likely won't change much unless you have multiple baffles in which it'd take out different volumes depending on the dimensions of the box.

read his signature...you should e-mail him

ok, so i'm putting up my carputer for sale. gonna go a different route with it. i was gonna keep it, but i think it needs a new hard drive so i'm just not gonna bother with it. everything is operational, except it won't fully boot into windows. but like i said, i think it's a hard drive issue which is a cheap enough fix. comes with everything necessary to set up. two SATA cables, one of which is extra long so i could reach to where i had my dvd drive located. here's the specs zotac ion series motherboard dual core Atom N330 processor 2 gigs DDR2 Corsair ram (1 stick, a second open slot for more RAM) 8 USB ports VGA and DVI ports i was running windows 7 on it to play music and watch movies while i ate food after bars when i was parked lol. worked just fine. tethered my phone to it and surfed the web a little when i needed. it's all out of the case as the case is pretty large to fit anywhere, so i had it all mounted behind the screen. i can try to put it all back in there, but more than likely it will have to be taken back out and installed in a similar manner. all pieces will be shipped however. i also have a Lilliput UM-1010/C/T USB 10.1" touch screen as well with the unit. i'll get pictures tomorrow of it, it's dark and i get it out of my dash still. the unit itself works fine, but there's a tiny hairline crack on the bottom right of the screen. just about 2 or so inches long. image looks great on it tho. very nice watching movies on it. i e-mailed lilliput with questions of repair but never heard back from them. i was going to try to go to a local glass company and see if they could cut out the same size glass and i'd just put the touch film over the new glass, but no real time to do it. *image of screen here* i wanna sell all of this for $300. i will entertain offers, no low balling please. i feel even with a repair that it is still a good offer. i will call the glass place tomorrow and see if they could do such a thing and how much it'd cost (if it's a lot, i'll adjust the price). if it's an easy enough repair i'll go ahead and do it. i'd rather this all be sold together but if not, i'll split it up since i want a tablet instead. and if i can't sell the screen, just gives me an excuse to incorporate it with the tablet **no trades** only trade i'm really looking for is an android tablet if you happen to have one. no ipads (although you'd probably keep them over a carputer anyways lol) any questions feel free to ask or PM me

not necessarily. unless you have a huge caravan where your dimensions are pretty much boundless, you have a set space to work with. so it looks like you have the volume you are aiming for, and a port area range, now you gotta figure the workable dimensions you have to work with. you enter those dimensions in the calculator, enter port dimensions and adjust port length to get a tuning to your liking. you may see that you have ample net volume or you may see that you don't have enough volume with your current dimensions. so you tweak the box/port dimensions till you get what you want. see what i'm getting at?

and why not? because it's not a big 18" sub so it can't get as low? it's all in the build

that's what i was gonna say lol. it's like peak ratings phased out and now people are swearing by these birth sheets

ummm...pretty sure he has a whole forum dedicated to him, figuratively speaking. it is HIS forum

lookin good. i love flat cones

i feel like this is one of those threads that if you have to ask...you shouldn't do it.

thanks for knowing how to forum and not quoting all the vids lol

thread jack incoming i love to dance. the video you posted was pretty good. they had great isolation in their movements and it was entertaining as hell to watch

most mods like that require the LEDs to be removed and new ones soldered in. some with an additional resistor in them. need to know how to solder electrical boards, which isn't too hard. also getting to the parts. i'd recommend getting some junkyard ones if you can and practicing on them first