LSN2meBoom916

Did I miss something or did you not post the link? I see no links.

YEA I'm more in favor of an "every man for himself" or no class system unless there a LOT more folks in it. I just meant, IF ANY system of classes was used, thats how I would do it. But better off w/ out.

I think wattage is not so realavent, I'd make the catagories more like best use of space available. "Best use of an SUV" Loudest hatch/P-UP truck (non cut thrus) Put folks against similar vehicle or space & parts constraints like trunk car/hatch/suv/van and break it up that way. I can put 10K watts on 2-18's in a hatch and do the electrical right, or I can throw the same in an suv or van and since the air ur compressing is way less in the hatch it's lopsided, one will likely be way louder even w/ the same equipment. So I say break it up either by woofer size/count/Sd or Vehicle.

Would you like to buy a vowel?

Me parece que si....pero en la ultima linea dice "como sabes?"...creo que quieres decir "como sepa?" La pregunta es A MI, no A Ti, y realmente dice "como PUEDO saber"...enotonces tienes que usar el subjuntivo en la primera persona. Pero menos que eso, creo que lo resto tenga razón. :red_bandana:

Welcome aboard. I would recommend an Epic-160 as an option. Which of the choices will unlitmately fit ur setup BEST is ur call oviously based on what parts you go with but I have an Epic and I love it. Esp. if you wanna tune for "max output" on a mic w/ out having to use a laptop/TermLab mic as cost a bit more than an epic and it will find youre peak or sweet spot just the same, just w/ out all the fancy bells and whistles and freq info yadda yadda. BTls would be great choice as they are proven in the trenches. I'm well aware that Audioque has some aswome subs too (2-10's doing around 150 from the trunk of a neon is pretty impressive) but I don't know for sure if they can take abuse as well as a BTL. RF power series amps, no brainer GONZO power, and the electrical you mentioned sounds sufficient as long as you stick to one BIG sub amp and dont double up. If so you might need a lil more reinforcement. Great plans so far i'd say.

IMPALA, IMPALA, IMPALA. Hands down. IMO....CAV'S=THE SUCK.

If your're driving both subs w/ the same output i.e. a monoblock or bridged 2 channel it doesn't matter. Only if you're runnig sep amps/channels to each sub, then you SHOULD divide them. Some folks say you gain a lil bit in compound loaded boxes/common chamber doe to some kinda of pressure coupling hoopla that is physics beyond my understanding so i just use the channel division rule and no probs w/ that. As far as box design I'm pretty much right w/ the guys on this one. Hatch/CRX hybrid cabin? =hatch/CRX hybrid box design. I point the subs as directly at the glass as possible to increase refraction/deflection of waves off a pretty inert material like glass rather than have the wave directly impact the softer/more flexible interior panels of the trunk and lose/dissipate some energy w/ that flex (flex=loss of energy). So w/ subs pointing kinda diagonally up at the glass, I'd try to set my port kinda like the one on Big J's burban how it's very Low on the back side of the box and firing straight rearward. I think you could further the "funnel effect of THAT setup by mounting your amp/s at an angle against the rear wall of the trunk/hatch to slope upward and guide the wave up into the interior cabin along the roof/cieling just like Meade's Resin 45's in his boxes. Think of the hatch AS the box and make it the same shape or close to what you would the inside of a box to maximize transfer of energy from box/woofer to occupants/mic up front. I like Tc's personally I wish I had one to work on.

I'd like to add this: Not to call out any local shops, here in norcal, especially not the one that sounds like Manthony's C.A., but they have got to the point that they will not EVEN give a quote over the phone, even if you say "I am on my way and need to know how much $$$ to bring!!" It's like written quotes get shredded the second after you read them so that "...no one else will come in here demanding the same "hookup" I give you!" it's like top secret price favoritsm base don how buddy-buddy you are w/ the dealers, when generally they take a $200 item, tell you msrp is $500 cuz it's "brand new top of the line"..."but if you do it right now" so we make sales for the day, you get "hooked up" this one time...for only $250. Dude thinks he got hooked up and is taken for an extra $50. Just sayin ARM yourself w/ the real msrp info and Definately shop around. 2X msrp? that's pretty bad/extreme, & sad. "Knowledge is power, experience is powerful" End rant.

1500 RMS or max per sub?

SMD+Fi+RF=..."My eye just popped out!" :pinch: :pirate:

HAHA I was kinda trying to lay that out there subtle like. HAHA, good sheeit mayne...Need a seperate generator for the garage/lounge/retreat area/install bay. I have essentially given up on "pushing it" out there. As long as I have a buncha light, and a battery powered boombox I'm straight. Bundled up w/ no heat and using my little current supply sparingly (one tool at a time haha). After rewiring that wall socket into the 20th century i aint takin any chances w/ it. Nice vids tho and yea I did catch the lil dimmin and figg'd that was the cause for the "sparing use" of the gain knob.

A photoCHOP would be easier if you could post a sideview shot of the whole car not front/rear bumper cutoff just a nice profile w/ wheels straight ahead. Straight ahead wheel views are easier to find and swap for stockers.

Wash, wax, vaccum, detail & clean the plexi & such. About 2hrs if I have that much time. W/E possible I'll do it the night b4 since it sleeps in the garage, and just roll out the next day feelin all shiny and sexified. I swear it RUNS better when it's clean. During the summer I wash and wax it every weekend. Cali summers are THE BEST IMO.

I'm pretty sure the only folks on here w/ Integras are not interested in this, but I thought I'd update it once at least just in case and add: THERE ARE MORE/BETTER PICS OF THIS BOX/SETUP IN THE MEMBER BUILDS/SHOWOFF SECTION UNDER THE BUILD OF MY 1997 INTEGRA. It also shows how this was built. Thnx.

X2 on the garage CRANAGE. I feel ya man, I cant really tune in the garage just too much crap starts fallin off the walls/rafters, not to mention the neighbors aint luvin it. Towers are lookin dope man, can't wait for the "in house" demo when the Picasso's start flying off Chickin's walls BTW-Steve, how's the electrical in ur garage? Stock? or upgraded? The shit I'm werking with is from the 70's and it freaks out if u run more than 15amp draw off any socket, and I jst had to re-wire one of the wall sockets after it fizzled out. I was contemplating a plug in AC/DC converter box for benchin equipment out there and maybe having some better tunes while I werk than my lil boom box but I think the current draw would trip the breaker every time. I know you'r a construction guy so i was just curious if u beefed up ur garage electrical at all for times like this when u gotta test run....perhaps a 2000watt sub/mid tower?

Compressor & Brad nailer like I used in woodshop have been on my xmas list every year for 10 years now, and NO LUCK. I always get punked for xmas. oh well, Predrill, countersink, screw, screw, screw it!

With notice so I can make arrangments with/work & school, I'm there for sure, I'd bring as many folks as I could, most w/ no chance of scoring well but they want to be TL metered. Maybe me +3 or so.

OK. then IAM confused. What would be the problem if your lights were not dimming? If they are not dimming, then the electrical is keeping up w/ the demand of the system and your lights. Right? So how is that a problem? Or are you trying to say that in any case, regardless of lights/system/etc working PERFECTLY, the mere presence of a cap = "problems"??? If so I don't follow.

Damn. How's THAT for versatility. Like pick ur poison: spl or sq. sounds cool, i'll have to check it out for sure.

Correction-If your lights are dimming, you have a problem. if they aren't, you should be ok. If the electrical can keep ur lights from dimming in all weather, that would indicate YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT reserve and charging in your electrical system. So no worries. If you have enough electrical reinforcement, your lights wont dim.period. If you have a low power setup, a 1F cap will prolly be ok and help. From my exp around 1000 true rms watts if the max. Anything over that And you guys (megalo&james) are right caps are not gonna help and will prolly HINDER, as the stock alt will die trying to keep everything charged and supply power tot he system. If you have a 20,000watt setup, 80F aint gonna save you from the electron monsters. THAT's why most folks hate on caps I think. They ASSUME it's a high power setup automatically. The distinction should be made: Low power, caps ok, high power setups, you're better off with something that holds more power like BATTERIES AND you should have the means to keep them sufficiently CHARGED like one or more High output alts. And a Digital Voltage display is always good.

The more you open it the more air/bass can get into the cabin and thus the louder/cleaner your bass will be. Steve opened his up pretty big so that even if the seats were UP the subs could still hammer thru that giant throat and bounce off the rear window. I know he left the seats down for comps but i'm sure it was damn loud even w/ the seats up. Prolly around 200in^2 in that rear deck opening. The free-er & open the better.

Man I really hope I make to AutoRama so i can hear that setup. I've always been a fan of "optimized" setups like bandpass and Tlines just never had a program or any of the math but ur tutorial makes me confident I could pull it off and I have TONNS of subs layin around to play with so off we go. :watsup: Good luck at AR and hopefully I'll see ya there.

4-12's would be CAKE in that trunk. I have 4-12's (sealed mind you) in my trunk and still have room for golf clubs/bag. So,as long as ur "decent-good w/ glassing/tubbing ur trunk" and "sneaky" when it comes to keeping it removable, unless you don't care about it coming out ever, you can fit more than 4-12's, and 1-15's would easy pending you're not looking at a box over 6-7ft cubed AND keep it removable. Hell, look at how Steve CRAMMED those RF 18's into the first build of the civic. It was built in butin his case that was worth it. I can vouch for it being a beast (even tho it's louder now w/ the RE's in a wall). I remember watching him hand me my ass in the db drag lanes at Infineon and that was the first time I realized you could ripp ur car apart w/ flex as his rear window moulding was flappin in the wind like a kite string. Maybe take a look at the build log of his first setup in the civic for some ideas, but you can surely fit that^ gear in that trunk in a number of "cool" & "loud" ways. ~2cents.

People usually say a cap is "no good" or "not worth it" because it is more "storage" (of electrical charge/power) THAT REQUIRES CHARGING by your alt. That said, in SOME cases it can help. With LOWER power setups (1000w rms or less), the draw from the cap on big bass note or bass heavy track will not be sufficient to "kill" the cap completely so the alt, even a stock alt, will be able to recharge it QUICKLY/sufficiently and the cap will serve it's intended purpose of a "buffer" for ur amp between the battery and help with keepin lights from dimming. When the bass slams, it eats some (usually lots) of juice, and the cap can DISCHARGE and RECHARGE faster than a normal battery so in that regard it helps to keep the overall system voltage more constant/consisitent. IMO, caps w/ a digital voltage readout are MORE benificial than any other might be (barring HUGE caps like a 15F-40F or battcap) because more often than not, the REAL downfall of electrical setups is Lack of AWARENESS of system voltage i.e. INSUFFICIENT SUPPORT (not enough cca's and/or ability to recharge) which causes major voltage drops. Voltage drops make amps work harder, overheat, put BAD/Clipped signal into subs and basically wreak havoc on ur system. If you have a digital readout and can WATCH your voltage DIVEBOMB under 9volts, if you have ANY common sense you will lower the volume or gain and let it recover b4 you roast something. Without KNOWING your real time voltage, it's a lot easier to just pound your setup into an early grave. That has just been my exp. I'm sure some folks will try to shoot holes in that theory and they are welcome to it I will not pretend to know everything about electrical/charging setups nor overlook the fact that EVERY SETUP is unique and will have different results w/ the same/similar products, This is just what I have encountered as an CA "installer". Adding a digital Real time Volt meter ha shad the most impact on the life span/longevity of electrical systems in setups I have built. In my own vehicle I have a PG Tantrum 1200.1 (1521rms @ 2ohm birthsheet) and a 600.4 for the mids. With the stock alt, Stinger SP1000, and a 1F cap I have minimal/barely noticable dimming in cold weather and none in the summer time. Next upgrade will be a 200A Iraggi unit and at least 1 deepcycle when I swtich to 4 amps, but for now it's pretty solid. Hope that helps clear up some of the "cap or no cap" controversey. ~2cents.