Skullz

Fill will reduce standing waves and reflections inside the box creating a deeper richer sound from the enclosure acting as if it is acoustically dead, you don't want to add more than 1lb per cf of box space.

Fastest engine pull i have seen.

Welcome

Best locations are strut towers since you have multiple sheets of metal welded there for strength and will allow the best transfer, use an alt bracket for the engine and ground on the battery under the hood since you will be running 2 2500's off the battery bank in back. EDIT: Also make a pair of runs in the front from chassis to body and in back also from body to chassis, they won't need to be long but will allow as much transfer as possible and help eliminate any possible ground issues.

I would do 2 runs from the engine bay back to the batteries, one on the engine and the other from the front battery all the way back to your extra bank along with a pair of grounds to the body and or chassis of the car. You can never have enough ground wires ran in a car especially with today's modern electronics installed.

Klaypex http://www.facebook.com/Klaypex?sk=app_190322544333196 Blackmill http://soundcloud.com/blackmill Zircon Just click on one of the albums and you can listen to each track at full length instead of 30 second bits like most all other sites. http://zirconstudios.bandcamp.com/

Just turn on the subwoofer output and turn the crossover off and set the gain from the sub out to max and see if you gain anything, if nothing still has changed try switching the phase and see if it helps.

After looking on sonixelectronics that H/U is only 2v pre-out so that is where your losing volume at so you'll need to re-gain your amp for the lower voltage coming in.

Here is the real point! People don't mind to listen to loud things when the sound they make sounds good and is clean and loud but when your music sounds like shit and rattles to all hell there isn't anyone alive willing to listen to that fucking garbage ass rattle trap you call a car. Just like we all like to listen to that jackass at 3am on his harley with a straight pipe going full bore right outside your window that you can hear 20 blocks away still full on the throttle.

Think of it this way, if your friends can hear you so can the COPS and the THIEVES who want to steal your shit. The less you can be heard while still being as loud as you enjoy it without others hearing it then you'll be much better off.

The biggest problem is that he can never get his items back from him from the trade which is something that sucks cause with a payment he has many options in getting his money back but with a trade he can drag this on as long as he wants to which leaves the OP with nothing but empty and broken promises.

Should be fine but you better polyfill that thing or you'll get some serious resonating from the box.

http://www.coustic.com/support/pdfs/AMP-560.PDF

use a usb stick if you have one and make a sine wave track in audacity that's a few minutes long and use a dmm and see if your getting ac volts at full volume through the rca patch cords, the volts should match what the h/u is rated for so if it has 2v pre-out then you should see 2v a/c on a dmm.

I'm using audio technix and feel like it's damn good product, they have some b-stock on the cheap. There are plenty of good companies to go with. http://audiotechnix.com/

:drink40:

I would be more concerned that it would be a stolen check to pay for it than an actual scam but idk.

If you have 7 cubes at your disposal why not go with 2 12's?

EDIT: Since i had a double post i thought i would come up with something, might be able to tweak from here if it doesn't work out. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v308/SkullznXBones/box1.jpg[/img]"]http://

My feeling is if you tune it around mid 30's you'll get the best of all worlds with being able to hit the low notes and able to reach your cabin's RF and sound incredible but the choice is yours since it is your time, materials and work involved.

Your not accounting for the port being external with torres, in order to account for the port use the port as internal and find the net volume of the box and once you know that you'll have to add that to the actual gross volume and then subtract the sub and any displacements and enter that into the desired net volume in the lower right corner to get your actual tuned frequency. With everything you have shown and given dimension wise you'll be tuned to 24.5hz which is awfully damn low, i might be off a tad but that's as close to what you'll be tuned to as i could quickly figure out.

You just described metallica.

Happy B-Day Line em up

If you can take better pics of the fets which are on the outside of the board and maybe some of the board in the middle to see if we can if see anything is smoked and or burnt.

I like the look of the RF P1's and P 2's and think they'll sound better than the RE 8's. With the RF P1 single 8ohm's you can wire down to a 1.33ohm load, just that they'll cost a bit more then the RE's will but hell i think the looks of the RF's are sweet compared to many others in it's price range. http://www.audiosavings.com/products/8-Inch-Car-Subwoofer/(2)-Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-Series-P1S8-8--8-Inch-800-watt-8-Ohm-Car-Subwoofers/(2)+P1S8-8.aspx