fecupe2001

yeah maybe the impedance rise its high as hell, my 140A alternator and 2 HC1800 electrical a couple of years ago was holding the voltage like a boss, of course, i wan´t as loud as i thought i could be, changed the box and i got 2 louder, and of course, voltage dropped 2 times lower lol

Well, the thing is, i speak way better english on a computer than on a phone lol, that´s why i prefer to chat with you guys, about the shipping, remember that i live at panama many miles away from the US, but it´s cool since my brother lives at florida so shipping would to his adress, about the quote, you mentioned that you needed my alternator for the modification, you guys need it?? or i just need to buy the external regulator and the alternator doesnt need to be sent? please more info, thanks guys!

As much as i love that seat, i've NEVER got any good results by folding front seats horizontally, of course every car is different, but just saying that could hurt your score pretty bad. Try to cool the cabin before burping with the ac, always gained a couple of tenths for me, maybe use the FRONT RCA on the headunit instead of the sub rca, HPF on the HU off and you are set to go, that always gained me a couple of tenths also, taking outside the car those floor mats always gained me a tenth, those are the things i honestly would only advice you since every car is different, but those are the ones that always worked for me on any car i test

Hello michael, i ain't gonna start a new topic about this, i'm going to florida on september and i want to take the alternator with me in order to save a lot of money on shipping, how much time do you guys need to do this job? i still have the stock alternator on my storage wich i'm considering to use for the 12v system, what do you think? you guys have an unit that you could sell me kind of cheap? i'm gonna install 2 or 3 4 channels amplifiers on the 12v , don't think it would drop that much using a D3100 on front, pelase advice. Thanks a lot for your time man, please get back at me as soon as you can in order to see my budget and make a decision, cheers!

i've tested the brz1200 and the brz2400, also the bxi2608 and 2610D and yes, they do rated power if you can keep the voltage around 14v

very nice man, thanks for the input!!

honestly it would be a great help, but i actually didn't thought about asking someone to borrow me one of the exact model i can find around here and test it against a D3100 , if you do a similar test please send me some results, it would be awesome, i'm actually gonna try to do it myself this weekend also

as much as i love the idea of testing them, i don't think i would spend 100$ on that just for a test, BUT, you actually have a point, let me see if there's someone that can borrow me one of those batteries and actually gonna test it against a D3100 i have laying in my closet

my pleasure bro, glad you like that topic and find it useful damn that sucks, maybe you could find someone that works on construction? that guy can surely get you an 8" pvc pipe with the lenght you require, that's what i always do around here, there's a 4 15" box i'm building SOON that is gonna have a 12" pvc port lol

the ones i can get are powersafe batteries, made by enersys, tell me a little bit more about your batts, how mane of them? what's your voltage drop?

yeah i can find them CHEAP as hell, they even give me a discount if i buy a few lol, 3 XS power D3100 would cost me around 1200$ , with that amount of money i can buy around 12 UPS batteries, that's why i'm asking if they are good for car audio or if i should stay with xs power. P.S: they label says they are AGM by the way. this is the model they send me for that amount of money http://www.enersysreservepower.com/safe_vft.asp

wich model?? i can find the enersys 155 around here CHEAP as hell, they are 150AH , i've never used them before and lots of people say they do pretty good, an xs power D3100 cost around 400$ over here, i can find those UPS batteries for like 100$ a piece

i had a nice result with only a couple of hours testing a hyundai accent trunk car, i was using a single 10" pioneer champion 258 sub with is 350 watts and cost about 40 bucks, powered by a cadence 1800 watts amplifier wired at 2 ohms wich is like 800 watts before impedance rise and voltage drops, box was 1.1 cubic feet and i was using a 6" pvc port with some crappy flares i did with a heat gun, car was doing 143.1 @ 56 hz Box was sub back and external port side, it scored better with the port facing to the driver's corner and the sub facing like the passenger's side panel

impressive for sure, very nice!

not bad man, very nice for such a cheap system using a sealed box, keep it up!!

very nice man, i've always been a big fan of your car, great vids

Yes derrick824 was the guy making them, don't know if he still does tho, he's a member around here also, maybe you could use a heat gun and a metallic bowl??? that's the way i always "build" them and works great for such fast and easy process, here's a video i recorded long time ago building the flares for my swift, they ended up looking very nice IMO, i couldn't build them bigger since they wouldn't fit, but you get the idea....

yes they can, mny swift did a 148.1 with 3 10s and a cadence c6 wired at 1.33 ohms, that car was loud as hell back then http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2X1JGFQLNS4&feature=g-upl

i've used amps mounted on the box before without any problems, but i agree with the guys, it needs to be very strong in order to do this witout putting the amp on jeopardy, mannnn my english is getting better and better lol

PWK haha Anyways, 8.2 cubic feet and 4 6" aeroports, subs up port back, that box did a 150.9 @ 42 hz inside a nissan patrol using a DD m4 @ 1 ohm and 150.3 @ 43 hz inside a hyundai tucson using a cadence C6 @ 1 ohm, trust me, the termlab didn´t do any justice on how loud those 2 cars are using the same design...

for spl?place the port facing to driver´s side or maybe back, and higher tuning for sure, around 40 hz would work better...

great guy around here, good luck with the sale bro!!!

like i said, i don´t own the AC, i own a TL only that was at home at that moment, both sensors were him, i don´t know how to adjust that shitty AC and don´t care how to, the guy never did a comparisson against each sensor since he only uses the AC for SQ, so i asked him to do that and he say let´s do it, why would he set the AC in a way that it could be right on with a TL? audiocontrol isn´t paying me any money for that video, it´s kind of dumb you saying that WE adjusted the audiocontrol before recording that video, i kind of feel offended, you are saying i´m all bullshit or something??? I ain´t gonna fight with anyone that thinks the video is bullshit, specially a mod, i always thought you were a cool guy, but saying in other words that i´m a lier just because i´m saying those are the results we got??? you are funny, anyways, carry on man, if you want to do that test yourself be my guest, maybe you are right and the sensor had a major hit on the shipping and now it´scoring the same number than the TL, but saying I adjusted everything before that video??? that´s bullshit, cheers man...

well, never expected someone saying i was bullshiting around here since lots of people know that i´m the real deal, but anyways, the audiocontrol was sent to their factory to upgrade everything up for the spl 190 sensor, and also, the guy you see on the video burping the car it´s me, and the owner of both sensors it´s a very respetable guy around here that holded a few latin america records , was a certified iasca judge and it´s even the american bass and cadence dealer for central america, no he did not tweak it anything but it´s cool, it´s a free forum, you can think and give any opinion you want P.S: Yes, termlab it´s WAY cheaper than the AC

i used some black "urenate"??? fuck english lol, anyways, the same product the shop uses when you change a windshield, my explorer has the back window sealed since 2010 and still working awesome